Ideas for making a template for shower panel.

[EvilRabbit]

How do guys make a template to match the vertical curve of the wall/hull in the heads. I need to fit a fixed glass shower panel and needs to fit flush with the curve of the hull. Any tips to get the temple of the curve?

[roverhi]

Make what I call a 'story' post. Use a piece of at least 1X material the height of the panel. Placing it vertical where the straight edge of the panel will be. Take battens of various lengths horizontal from hull to the 'story' post and fasten them in place. Space the horizontal battens 6"-1' or so apart, closer in areas with big change in position, farther apart in straight areas. Lay the 'story' post with the battens down on whatever you using for a template, 1/4" ply works great, with the vertical 'story' post flush with one edge, and mark the position of the outer end of the battens. Use a thin batten to smooth out the curve and trace a line. Cut along the line and you have the template. You'll have to figure how to cut the glass/plexi.

Sure wish I could figure out how to include a picture in this site, would have made it really clear.

[SV DestinyAscen]

If I understand correctly, you're looking for a template to cut glass at the top and bottom to match the curve?

If so, two furling strips screwed together at 90°. Paper attached to the L and trace the curve on the paper.

[mikereed100]

I use 2 methods for this depending on the size of the area and curves. The first method uses a 'story post' the same as Peter uses but then I use a joggle stick and mark the post instead of using battens. (Google "joggle stick" to see what I am talking about). If there are not a lot of curves I just cut battens out of doorskin or 'feature board' and hotmelt glue it to fit the curves, with lots of bracing. This creates a life-size template.

[Terra Nova]

Generally I use strips of 1/8" door skin, hot-glued together, to make a frame which roughly fits the area. Small pieces of those strips can be added, at intervals, to gather sufficient marking points. Then I scribe the actual outline using a pencil compass. Additional markings can identify bevels, etc. Very fast and accurate.

On very large openings, roughly filling the space with a piece of plywood, or some such, may be of benefit prior to attaching door skin strips. Strip widths depend on the poject's scale.

[Canuck Sailor]

Door Skin is how I did a seat board replacement. I have also tried to attach an image of the pattern that I created to make the top plate.
Hopefully it will come up.
It was a little easier for me. I just kept cutting down the door skin until it fit in close enough to get the proper fit.
The hot glue gun is a snap for joining the door skin outlines.

[lateral]

Google tick stick wedge for templating.

[Terra Nova]

BTW, once you have made your door skin and hot glue pattern you can transfer that to a plywood or Masonite pattern or template, if the fit is critical or if the shape is difficut.

[topmast]

The glue gun and doorskin strips on a plywood panel (plus staples) is the good way for most templates. Remember to number label up/down ,fore/aft. in side/out. bevel. Nothing like getting back from the shop with left handed panels and windows

[four winds]

Roverhi, to post a pic.....

If you're using the quick reply, click go advanced.

If you're using post reply or guote, it goes to the correct page.

On the reply page, scroll down under the text posting box and look for "manage attachments".

That goes to a page to "browse" for a pic on you're harddrive.

Select a pic and then over on the right side "upload pic".

Then "close window" after the upload completes.

Then you're back to the posting page for the "submit".

Sounds harder than it is once you do it.

[tinkrman69]

Originally Posted by mikereed100

I use 2 methods for this depending on the size of the area and curves. The first method uses a 'story post' the same as Peter uses but then I use a joggle stick and mark the post instead of using battens. (Google "joggle stick" to see what I am talking about). If there are not a lot of curves I just cut battens out of doorskin or 'feature board' and hotmelt glue it to fit the curves, with lots of bracing. This creates a life-size template.

The two mentioned here and earlier work. using the story post...making sure it is parallel to the opposite side to the opening... I attach a couple sticks/battens or what not as bracing and attach card board panels. I slide it up close to the hull and using a compass...a divider looking tool with a pencil at one point and pin at the other. with one end against the hull and the other...the pencil end on the card board and trace it down, holding the compass as level as you can. if it is a large curve you might run off the edge of the cardboard. just cut along the line you were able to draw and put it back in and draw again...making sure the story post is parallel to the opposite side. when done you will have an exact image of the hulls conture. measure the distance from the opposite side to the story post and them set it on the peace of plexiglass/lexan, you want to make and transfer the contoured edge to it from the card board. the line will be cleaner than going point to point with sticks...needing less feyness when drawing. if you are having some one cut glass then give it to them with a drawing showing the dimensions of how the pattern will fit...ie...the dimension taken before, from the opposite side to the story post.

I fine cardboard easier to use and more readily available.

good luck
Lance