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Old 17-08-2009, 17:26   #16
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At this point I would second Joli's suggestion. Most production boat's interior woodwork is plywood, with the outer surface being a very thin laminate. Apply a mild chemical stripper, time how long it takes to lift your finish, utilizing a plastic flat blade scraper and going in the direction of the grain remove as much of the finish that you can get off, usually you will have to apply a second coat of stripper and repeat the process, with fine steel wool gently rub surface to remove residue from grain, with a scotch bright pad and a pail of warm water scrub surface with grain gently, (Do not saturate), wipe panel with clean towel and let dry. After panel is completly dry inspect and determine if there are areas that have to be re-treated. Once all the finish is removed you may elect to hand sand with 220 grit sand paper on a foam or rubber sanding block to even the wood color prior to finishing, (This requires very little sanding). After you have spent all this effort in prep take the time to use a very durable finish
Bristol Finish Home and build up a lot of coats so the wood is protected and the finish lasts a long time. Do not use heat guns on wood that is to be finished bright, the risk of burning or scorching the wood is to great.
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Old 17-08-2009, 19:36   #17
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Guys, this is all great advice. Thank you. I think I am going to take the top off and see if a professional will have a go at it. At this point I have become so emotional about it I can't even set foot inside the aft birth without getting all sweaty. My girlfriend is a very good painter to I may have her take a go at it first to see if she can't work a little fo-finish magic. After that I am off the get my pockets cleaned at the local wood working shop. I suppose I could save a few bucks by avoiding "marine" wood workers huh?
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Old 17-08-2009, 21:42   #18
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FWIW..
One last bit of advice...all the wood shops I know will not run any finished, stained or painted wood through their wide belt sanders..it gums the belt up and they are not cheap. so leave it all sanded down if you have it that way already.
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Old 17-08-2009, 22:58   #19
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hey man if you need a supply of teak veneer try Frost Hardwoods off Miramar road.

Welcome To Frost Hardwood & Lumber Co.
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Old 21-08-2009, 16:18   #20
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Hey, I Suck at Woodwork. I'm a woodworker and have a veneer press and can do the job. Can you remove the desk top and send it to me? I'll make it good as new and you just pay the shipping. For me, it's a piece of cake and just doesn't take that long. Be glad to help if you can get it to me. I'm north of you about 5 hours, near San Luis Obispo.

Regards, Peter
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Old 24-08-2009, 11:59   #21
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Leave it to the professionals!

It would have been cheaper in the long run if you had just paid a pro to do the job.

I have been a boat builder for 30 years and time and time again I come across jobs where a 'weekend warrior has had a go at it. It usually ends up costing the guy twice as much.

I work with wood and fibreglass. I repair boats for a living. When my truck goes wrong I take it to a mechanic that is qualified to do the job. i don't start taking it apart!

If you can't do woodwork then use the GAPI method It stands for Get A Professional In
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Old 24-08-2009, 12:08   #22
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Leave it to the professionals!

It would have been cheaper in the long run if you had just paid a pro to do the job.

I have been a boat builder for 30 years and time and time again I come across jobs where a 'weekend warrior has had a go at it. It usually ends up costing the guy twice as much.

I work with wood and fibreglass. I repair boats for a living. When my truck goes wrong I take it to a mechanic that is qualified to do the job. i don't start taking it apart!

If you can't do woodwork then use the GAPI method It stands for Get A Professional In
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Old 24-08-2009, 13:50   #23
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It would have been cheaper in the long run if you had just paid a pro to do the job.
Not really, If I had a professional varnish every surface on my boat I would be a poor man indeed. I've seen some pretty botched jobs come from "professionals", and I've seen some botched jobs come from amateurs. That's why they call it a mistake.
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Old 24-08-2009, 22:23   #24
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So Unbusted did you get your top fixed?
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Old 25-08-2009, 00:39   #25
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Nope not yet.
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Old 27-08-2009, 17:45   #26
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Not really, If I had a professional varnish every surface on my boat I would be a poor man indeed. I've seen some pretty botched jobs come from "professionals", and I've seen some botched jobs come from amateurs. That's why they call it a mistake.

AMEN to that brother...and heres proof.
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Old 27-08-2009, 20:50   #27
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Ouch! Was that a professional or an amateur?

By the way, for everyone who is waiting with bated breath I have made no progress on this issue, in fact there is a place mat over the desk so the problem has actually gone away.
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Old 27-08-2009, 21:08   #28
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Unfortunately there are a number of amateurs who think they are professionals. Some weekend warriors think that because they have spent $100 on a chop saw at Home Depot they are a professional.
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Old 28-08-2009, 00:48   #29
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My chop saw only cost me 40!
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Old 28-08-2009, 01:11   #30
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A long time ago, a professional furniture restorer told me that sandpaper was his best friend, it provided a lot of his work!

He would only use sandpaper of a very fine grain at the end of his work just prior to finish coat, and between finish coats if necessary. His technique depended on the finish that was in place, and he would test first in a position that could not be seen. He sometimes used a paint stripper, but fine steel wool was always his first line of removal.

Too much of today's furniture has a veneer that is so thin, that re-finish is a real skill in order to avoid digging through the veneer and into the sub-strata.

One option if this happens in a very visible spot, is to get a professional add in some marquetry and make the table really fancy.
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