How would you bed this?

[james247]

Originally Posted by james247

All quite funny
Tape around the chain plate cover remover it
I use a marine black Sicka place the ss cover back on squeeze gently put a little weight on it leave for the curing period remove the tape and you have a perfect job

Oi forgot then screw down to tighten the gasket

[TooCoys]

Originally Posted by phorvati

Butyl rubber or TDS caulking?

Well first I'd get all gussied up. I'd bring it flowers, take it out for a nice dinner, maybe a movie, or a moon lit walk on the beach. And at the end of the night, right when its most vulnerable, I'd be all like.... "so you wanna do it?"

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by james247

All quite funny
Tape around the chain plate cover remover it
I use a marine black Sicka place the ss cover back on squeeze gently put a little weight on it leave for the curing period remove the tape and you have a perfect job

"Funny"? I'm not sure of the point you are trying to make here... but while Sika 291, once cured, stays where you put it, butyl caulking sometimes does not. It will ooze out from where you stuck it, especially in hot weather, and make a mess.

The stainless cover will help here, but it still could be an issue that the OP should consider IMO.

Jim

[phorvati]

All i had to hear is one vote for butyl and that is it.

After nearly two years of crawling like a racoon I finally got the shrink wrap off!!! They shrink wrapped me while stanchions were out so it left me very little room to work.

The new deck is out in sunshine so let the graying process begin, lol.

Here is before and after.

[phorvati]

I had some TDS leftover since I had to re-caulk about 10% of the deck.

I used it on prisms and foots witches for windlass

[phorvati]

I used black butyl on inner forestay chainplate which is different from what im trying to do. Also on some other fittings. I see that it can get messy, but it cleans up pretty good as well. Ive bedded stuff with black butyl back in '03, and while it was oozing out for a little while, it stopped, it was not that bad to pick up and clean. If it oozes out on a hot, day you can wait for the evening or a colder day for it to harden, then its really easy to take out. I might be wrong, but i'll find out.

5200 might be too much. I don't even want to think about how I would get the chain plate out for inspection 10 years from now.



I think i will route out a bit more wood to make a bevel and jamb the butyl with a little heat. Hot days are here as well. But i have to hurry up. 50% chance of rain on Wednesday afternoon.

[leftbrainstuff]

I use 3M 4000, TDS or butyl. Butyl picks up dirt and grit so not a great choice if its not completely encapsulated.

I rarely use 5200. It's way overused by the 'bigger hammer is better' advocates. It destroys substrate when removing it causing more rework.

When I rebedded our prisms, after replacing our teak deck, I used 4 sealing interfaces.

1) I used penetrating epoxy on all the core exposed when I removed the prisms. We had no rot.
2) Then I used 3M 4000 white to seal the cavity the prism resides in
3) Then I used butyl to bed the prism mating surface to the cavity mating surface. I also used butyl to seal a cracked corner in one of our prisms. No replacement was available and I didn't have time to cast and heat treat a new glass prism.
4) Then I final bedded and caulked the top of the prism to the deck, with 3M 4000 UV black and the stainless trim piece flush with the deck. When / if I dig out the caulk to replace a prism I can leave the white.

We have no leaks and have survived two PNW winters.

The butyl is very good at enduring differential expansion. It is visible underneath the prism which gives a visual indication of complete sealing.

I'd use 3M 4000 UV or TDS. I've experienced bad batches of both in the last 3 years. So both suppliers need to pickup their quality game. I now check or demand specific lot and batch numbers which labels me as a PITA by suppliers. Tough luck. Fix your quality first....

[jimbunyard]

Don't know what your fastening system is but I'd be seriously concerned about that cracked plank allowing water in and trapping it against the chainplate between the deck and subdecking, encouraging crevice corrosion. Can't think of any lasting solution for filling the cracks though...

[redsky49]

I'd use Sikaflex 291 or one of the variants.


As for butyl, having used it in the past, I cannot recommend it for sailing areas south of the Chesapeake. For your application, probably alright in RI, but I would more than likely use a black sealant/semi-adhesive. For under the fastener heads, maybe there I would use a tiny bit of butyl.


Or go traditional with Dolfinite.

[phorvati]

So here I am 3 years later. I beeded most deck hardware using butyl, accept for chainplates. I did chainplates with lifecaulk, I guess that's polysulfade. It says flexible. I guess not flexible enough. Most of my chainplates are leaking. I did hit some rough weather and sail the boat hard on occasions, but should they be leaking even a bit, after 3 years? Here is a starboard forward lower, looking up from inside before I took it out. Lifecaulk definitely cracked and the seal broke. Bulkhead is still in great shape as I filled it with epoxy and re-drilled. I just rebedded it butyl rubber from McMaster.
One by one I will do the shroud chainplates in butyl.

[phorvati]

In that first pic, that's daylight. And that is where water is comming from. Not the best pic.