How long should Interlux Interprotec 2000 barrier coat protect my iron keel?

[Don Sloma]

After Goldstar Marine, in Port Townsend, WA 'removed all rust, sanded and prepped' the iron keel on my Oceanis 445, they waited as long as they thought they should and applied a barrier coat of Interlux Interprotect 2000. After a time, they did two coats of Interlux bottom paint. When I hauled the boat for unrelated repairs 15 months later, the keel's bottom (just the very bottom) was covered in a colony of mussels. The keel's front edge and the edges of the fins on the keel bottom's torpedo like 'foot' were full of rust. Not just a few spots; about half of these areas had rusting areas. I sent the yard pix. They said they felt no responsibility to help fix the job. Should they?

[Cheechako]

That's a tough one. My guess is they didn't do the areas that were sitting on blocks. As well.... likely some areas low down may not have gotten the best prep. But to do under the blocks, lift the boat, set it down, relift it, and then do that all again when painting costs a lot more for sure. For economy, unless there is a specific problem, it's seldom done.
Bad communication, if they aren't going to do it all they should say so. But it's also uncommon to do those areas perfectly unless you ask specifically what's being done.
They could charge a ton of money and do it proper, which for cast iron is blasting the iron in my opinion, then it's going to cost a lot more yet. Iron is porous and you can't just sand it if it has started to rust in the pores.
I'd mark it up as a lesson learned. You can specify exactly what you want and pay the price (1000's more) or live an imperfect world.

[wingless]

Welcome to the forum.

The Interlux Interprotect 2000E Epoxy Barrier Coat is an excellent product and I have had great results using that product.

It is no surprise that the preparation and the application are the most important aspects of this type of job. Everything should follow the manufacturer's instructions.

If this were my boat, then I would apply Pettit 6455/044 Metal Primer onto the bare metal, before the epoxy. That metal primer does an excellent job when applied prior to epoxy, or other coatings.

The proper application of barrier coat must include many layers, per the instructions.

When I did my boat I applied five layers of 2000E. It has been working very well. I also moved all the blocks and stands for 100% coverage. This was a DIY job.

The yard had bad results the first time. I would expect similar results on the second pass.

[HopCar]

Cheechaco is probably right, but being from Miami my first thought was that you had sanded the paint off on the sea floor.

We have a lot of shallow water and if you don’t touch bottom once in awhile, you’re not having fun.

[Don Sloma]

Thanks. Experience can be an expensive teacher. But in this case, I asked if their prep work would be adequate to keep the keel from rusting for 5 to 7 years, and specifically asked that they do the bottom of the keel. I was assured they would do it right (according to manufacturer's recommendations), though I did not remain at the yard, 100 miles from my home, to oversee the work during the couple of weeks it all took. So here's some free teaching for readers of this thread based on my expensive experience with GoldStar in Port Townsend: go to another yard.

[David M]

Interlux 2000 is a great product but 2 coats was not enough. It should have been more like 5 coats. As soon as the rust is blasted off you are supposed to coat immediately. The yard should have known that and about the number of coats. Contact Interlux and get the straight scoop.

[Don Sloma]

Yeah. I am in Puget Sound where mud bottoms, gravel, rocks and more make up the bottom. It is possible that the keel's bottom and the fins on the keel's 'torpedo' touched bottom, but not the front of the keel up several feet.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Don Sloma

Thanks. Experience can be an expensive teacher. But in this case, I asked if their prep work would be adequate to keep the keel from rusting for 5 to 7 years, and specifically asked that they do the bottom of the keel. I was assured they would do it right (according to manufacturer's recommendations), though I did not remain at the yard, 100 miles from my home, to oversee the work during the couple of weeks it all took. So here's some free teaching for readers of this thread based on my expensive experience with GoldStar in Port Townsend: go to another yard.

That's too bad. And not untypical. I just don't get these places. I once left a boat dry stored for 3 months in Florida, asked that they grind out a few BB size blisters on one side just below the waterline to dry out for those months. 2 weeks before returning I called to confirm it was done and they hadn't done it yet! I got there and they had sent someone who didn't know what the heck he was doing to do it and had ground about 1 ft x 5 ft long area real deep and ugly.

[Halien]

When was the job done? My son used to work for Gold Star. The owner he worked for--who was generally a good guy--sold it to some "business people". It has changed hands again since then, and the new owners might be great, but for a few years it was run by a moron who couldn't open a can of paint.

If the newest owners don't want to make things right, I don't really blame them. Fixing all the crap that interim owner sent customers away with would put him out of business. After my son quit Gold Star he had a canvas shop in the yard for several years. I had my boat at the Boat Haven. We watched those "investor-owners" screw things up on a daily basis for a couple of years.

Again, the new owners might be great. I don't know. My boat is in Seattle now and my kid moved from the area. If you want to go back to PT, the BUMS guys are pretty good.

[MartinR]

If the keel was not sand-blasted before applying the primer, it will not last. Sanding is not enough!!!!!

Next time, Sand-blast the keel. Then use Intershield 250 as primer. 4 coats minimum. Intershield 250 is very resistant to abrasion. Normally life span of this coating is about 15 years. Slightly less if you use the boat in ice;-). You might need a tie coat, depending on antifouling.

[Scaramanga F25]

Did your keel ever, to your knowledge or not, rest on a sandy or muddy bottom?

I have tried coal tar epoxy on one boat immediately after sanding one side SMOOTH then did the other side same routine. This was followed with 3 recommended West epoxy coatings.

My buddy next to me had almost as good results by sanding and painting with several coats of "Rustoleum ". This was in freshwater.

[Delfin]

Originally Posted by Don Sloma

Thanks. Experience can be an expensive teacher. But in this case, I asked if their prep work would be adequate to keep the keel from rusting for 5 to 7 years, and specifically asked that they do the bottom of the keel. I was assured they would do it right (according to manufacturer's recommendations), though I did not remain at the yard, 100 miles from my home, to oversee the work during the couple of weeks it all took. So here's some free teaching for readers of this thread based on my expensive experience with GoldStar in Port Townsend: go to another yard.

I just had the same product applied last October by Latitude Marine. In taking with the Interlux technical rep, who I asked to come out to inspect the preparation work before application, it should last 15 years. Was the boat sandblasted to near bright before application? If not, Gold star effed it up.

[barnakiel]

Well, Interlux, boatyard staff work? Man, it should last!


If you did not touch any hard ground with this keel, the work should be good for years. I dare say 10 years and beyond, easily.


I say this as we have a very corrosion prone cast iron keel. I prepped by myself (one person, thus not possible to do it all in one day). I painted 8 coats of less noble epoxy barrier coat. That was 2012. I checked the keel last year (2018) and it was PRISTINE - NOT A SINGLE RUST SPOT anywhere on it.


Mind I am not a pro and I could not do it properly (=sandblast, then epoxy immediately). I used plain angle grinder disks only.


If my amateurish work is fine after 6 full years under water, then a pro yard and Interlux materials should be able to deliver 10 years and more of protection. IMHO


barnakiel

[ski69sail]

Hi There

I was told to waterblast with at least a 5000psi waterblaster prior to sandblasting... This removes any salt residue..Salt under your paint sucks in moisture through the paint. It and will destroy even the best paint job.
Off course the first paint job needs to be done almost immediately after blasting..............