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Old 11-10-2016, 21:08   #31
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Re: Flakey paint and old mildew in our lockers, grease on teak.

On a sober note - wood alcohol or no: The reason Kilz (the original) is such a good mould barrier is that as well as fungicide it has SHELLAC in it. How old-fashioned can you get :-)!

Kill the little beggars, then bury their tiny corpses in a shroud of shellac.

But Ann has a point. If the surface is not likely to get wet, by all means use latex. Might even go the whole hog and use "kitchen and bathroom latex".

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Old 12-10-2016, 06:30   #32
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Re: Flakey paint and old mildew in our lockers, grease on teak.

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Originally Posted by TrentePieds View Post
On a sober note - wood alcohol or no: The reason Kilz (the original) is such a good mould barrier is that as well as fungicide it has SHELLAC in it. How old-fashioned can you get :-)!

Kill the little beggars, then bury their tiny corpses in a shroud of shellac.

But Ann has a point. If the surface is not likely to get wet, by all means use latex. Might even go the whole hog and use "kitchen and bathroom latex".

TrentePieds
The trouble with most latex paints is the relatively low durability, especially
for applications like lockers, where heavy objects may move around and damage the paint.

I did my anchor locker with latex bathroom (mold inhibitors) paint, on the recommendation of someone I trusted and it was terrible. Now I use gelcoat or
Interlux bilgekote
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:45   #33
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Re: Flakey paint and old mildew in our lockers, grease on teak.

once you have peeled the latex paint off your boat in sheets, you will not use it again.
does not take long for it to in huge sheets, peel off your surfaces.
the salvor who put this boat on market for po to buy did that-- is a HUGE mistake.
do yourself a favor and use something that is not latex.


hay ditch some messages(please)!!!!! cannot answer yours anymore your box is filled to brim and overflowing ha h aha ha ha
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Old 12-10-2016, 10:16   #34
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Re: Flakey paint and old mildew in our lockers, grease on teak.

Yep - sloughing off is common enuff in shoreside applications, usually because there was residual guck on the substrate. Latex is porous and IMO inferior in all respects to REAL paint. It's "advantages", quite apart from the EPA's busybody shenanigans, is that it can be handled by amatoors, and it doesn't stink.

Wouldn't use it myself, but in some applications for some people, it may be a sensible choice.

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Old 12-10-2016, 10:23   #35
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Re: Flakey paint and old mildew in our lockers, grease on teak.

There are paints that resist mold, that might be a good thing to use to re-paint the lockers.
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Old 12-10-2016, 10:26   #36
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Re: Flakey paint and old mildew in our lockers, grease on teak.

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There are paints that resist mold, that might be a good thing to use to re-paint the lockers.
If your OK with white, I can't imagine why oil based Kilz wouldn't be good?
Maybe it can be colored, I don't know.
I too have seen latex paint come off of fiberglass in sheets.
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Old 16-10-2016, 13:54   #37
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Re: Flakey paint and old mildew in our lockers, grease on teak.

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LOL , I agree the advertising is ridiculous. I hadn't read them. Gluten free hahaha hahaha.

But it won't kill the plants around my deck, I won't have to wear a respirator to work with it, and it's generally safer for the environment, unlike bleach. Like I said, it was recommended to me by an acquaintance that runs a deck cleaning/house cleaning/roof cleaning business. The $44 dolars I spent was for 20lbs. Of the stuff. It can be purchase in smaller quantities for much cheaper. But still, you're correct, it's more expensive than bleach. Maybe I am ignorant. I'll find out how well it works and I'll report back.

reporting back! I'm very happy with the results of using oxygen bleach on my deck. Mix, apply, light scrub, rinse, and dirt and mildew gone. Next I'm going to clean the concrete driveway.
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Old 18-10-2016, 19:35   #38
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Re: Flakey paint and old mildew in our lockers, grease on teak.

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For the present purpose you'll get just as much cleaning power from a three-dollar bottle of household bleach as you'll get from a fifty-dollar bucket of "Oxy-Boost"
I get most of my cleaners including oxy-bleach for just a dollar a piece at one of the dollar stores (Dollar Tree). If the stains are really bad, I mix this with TSP (also cheap). I also mix in some borax to help kill the mold.

I started out by buying most of the cleaners that WM sold. What a waste of money. Not only were they not all that effective, they were much more expensive. Go cheap.

But also realize that some stains just don't come out. Short of sanding your FG past the gel coat, they can't be cleaned. So as mentioned by others, you end up painting over them. And this crosses over into an area I know very little about. I have done some experimenting with several paints you can buy from any big box home store (or Walmart). But not enough time has gone by to determine the longevity of the paints.
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Old 20-10-2016, 07:16   #39
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Re: Flakey paint and old mildew in our lockers, grease on teak.

There have been a number of chemicals suggested for cleaning. Please be careful about mixing them. Some don't play well with others and may produce everything from poison gasses to combustibles. Take care.

With marine epoxy paint on the outside of the hull to stop penetration and proper ventilation to keep the inside dry, you have many options to choose from as far as paints go. With proper surface preparation, just about anything will work. However, latex paint of any nature would not be among my choices. It simply isn't durable enough and it's really messy to remove.

On the topic of black mold (and some other varieties), special measures need to be taken. There are serious health risks. Wear protection. It is also difficult to eradicate and specific procedures should be observed. See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stachybotrys AND CDC - Mold - General Information: Facts about Stachybotrys chartarum and Other Molds

Some mold spores have a hard impenetrable shell. They can lie dormant for ages and return with a vengeance when the environment becomes favorable. The most effective treatments I've seen are sold in swimming pool supply stores. Might be worth looking into because mold remediation typically calls for a lot of very destructive measures.

For fabrics (I haven't heard much in this thread about the inevitable stains on curtain, cushion covers, bedding and carpets) I'm sure you have all heard about mixed about 1/2 cup of hydrogen peroxide, a few teaspoons of baking soda (or more as an abrasive), and a squeeze or two of Dawn dish washing liquid. The Dawn breaks down grease, oils and organics while the Hydrogen Peroxide doesn't like anything. Hell, it doesn't even like itself.

What you may not have heard is using a little CLR (calcium, lime and rust remover) first, to treat tough water and rust stains on fabrics. Just be sure to rinse well with clean, clear water before using the HP, BS and Dawn concoction to finish removing the stains.

Congratulations on you new boat and I hope things go very well for you! I'll be following to see how things go!
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