Corrosion On Seacock

[Trekka]

Crawling under the head sink and twisting, I found the seacock connected to the macerator. It has a lot of green corrosion on it, which appears to originate from the connection to the hose from the macerator. (first picture below)

I've cleaned up seacocks before, but this one has a couple of issues.

First, it is below the waterline so I have to proceed carefully.

Second there are 1/4" plugs on each side. These plugs have corroded to to the point that they crumbled on the attempt to unscrew, leaving a pink residue in the sockets. I think the PO accidentally used brass plugs, of which there are many on the boating store racks, instead of bronze (which I had to special order). Using brass plugs in a bronze seacock is consistent, I believe, with this result.

Question I have is how to clean out these sockets? I've gotten as much as I can by scraping one of them. but there is still too much residue in the socket to even partially screw in the new plug. (This is compicated by where this seacock is, being hard to reach the top & bottom sides, and that I only have a side view of it with my eyeballs. I use my digital camera to get a real look at it.)

I will probably arrange a day haulout next week. But what approach to take then?

Is it possible the seacock has been damaged beyond what cleaning out the socket would fix?

Here's the seacock:



Here's the side with the plug:

[Stillraining]

Trekka:

I do not believe so...That is if I am corect a Wilcox credetion ( spelling )valve same as I have on my boat..one of mine looked like that as well..I chucked up a wire wheel in an electric drill and went after it right in place..I was on the hard so i could take the valve apart for inspection but it didnt realy help in the cleaning of the body...the plugs will squirt out water in the closed position if removed when you are in the water and I have done it a couple times..but not in the open position so it is easy to stop just by turning the handel... they are there to drain the valve for winter storage or grease the valve once per year if your in the water and cant tear it down..

You can not buy a better valve..you are not going to hurt it by being aggressive with a wire wheel and brush.

Hope this helps..

[Stillraining]

Here is what the guts look like ...very very simple and robust...you can tear one down clean it up and repack with grease in 5 min.

Allot of people dont like them due to the maintenance but I think there great.

Im actually looking for one in either 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 someone said he had a couple but hasn't gotten back with me..and i cant remember who it was.

[Trekka]

Thanks for the encouragement. I cleaned and lubed all the seacocks on this boat after purchase and before launch - I thought! Missed this one because of it's location, tucked way off to the side under the sink and cabinet, partially hidden by many hoses, toilet to tank and hot/cold lines to sink & shower.

What do you think I can do to clean out the socket of that 1/4" plug? The remnants of the corroded plug are realy caked in there in the grooves.

[Stillraining]

I would go ahead and run a tap in it in the closed position... you can't run into anything as you can see the hole in the tapered plug will be inline with the tap...yes you well get a little water in yor boat but only while first starting it and pulling it back out ..and it dosent come in very fast or forceful at all...you pee harder then it will come in really Im not kidding.

[ShadowRWolf]

green stuff wont hurt it just dosnt look good.
Bronze only oxidizes superficially; once the surface oxidizes, the thin oxide layer protects the underlying metal from further corrosion.

[GordMay]

Your Wilcox-Crittenden* seacock appears to be suffering from a (Green) uniform surface corrosion of the valve body, and a Pink Selective Leaching (de-zincification) of the (Brass?) Drain Plug.

I suspect you may be correct in assuming that the PO installed a Brass Plug (or inferior bronze) in the drain hole; and that it’s dezincified. You should be able to remove the majority of the spongy residue with a tap, drill, and or pick; then a “scotch brite” scouring pad or pipe cleaner brush.
A final cleaning of the threads might utilize a chemical treatment (Benzotriazole - BTA), a subject about which I know little.

* Although many old-timers (like I) swear by them, I'm not fond of the Tapered Plug style seacock.

[AnchorageGuy]

Do your self a big favor if you are hauling out and get rid it. Easy to put in a new bronze seacock, will be easy to operate and you won't have future hassles. We replaced older ones at about one or two each haul out until all of the old ones were gone. I am so glad we did.

[gettinthere]

I agree on replacement. not something to treat lightly. I've got 2 that have a bit of pinkish salmon color to the bolts. when I take the bolts off, the body threads are pink inside too. big pain to replace them but...

[Stillraining]

If you do toss it within the next 2 months and it is a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 size. I will pay shipping to get it.

[ricorrea2002]

Originally Posted by Stillraining

Trekka:



You can not buy a better valve..you are not going to hurt it by being aggressive with a wire wheel and brush.

Hope this helps..

Hi Stillraining, sorry to ask about your old post.

Two questions:

1-Did you clean the seacock just with mechanic means (brush and wire wheel)? Chemical?

2-Do you keep the seacock in the same status? How?

Thanks

[T-Birder]

Can anyone speak to the "marlon" through hull fittings?

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by T-Birder

Can anyone speak to the "marlon" through hull fittings?

Welcome to CF.
As to Marlon, it's perhaps not as tough as metal fittings, but you'll never have corrosion issues.
I can't speak to long term UV issues, you might check back issues of Practical Sailor for tests of them. UV & in general.

[T-Birder]

I'm looking at a 2004 Cabo Rico 56 and it seems they used marlon for through hulls in the build.

What up with that ?

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by T-Birder

I'm looking at a 2004 Cabo Rico 56 and it seems they used marlon for through hulls in the build.

What up with that ?

I'm not trying to be a wise ass, but... Call them direct with your list of questions. That would be the way to get the most definitive answers. As unless another forumite works for them, then any answers which we can post will be speculative.
Plus, more often than not, in a situation like that (where you're talking to them live), one question's answers tend to lead to/create another question or three.