Yanmar 4JH3E Oil Cooler

[Kapitan]

I checked the price of the lube oil cooler.

It's list price in Turkey is € 662,96 VAT included. You better take good care of it

[Hudson Force]

My oil cooler on my 4JH3E failed today at 4,970 hours with no appareant zinc. As I approach the replacement, has anyone had difficulty with the banjo fittings? I assume there are O-rings at the base of these fittings. I'm about to remove the old cooler. 'any expectations or advice? Am I going to be battling an oil loss mess at the disconnect? Thanks, Aythya crew

[MarkJ]

We got a mechanic to do it.

He had to easy off the conecting hoeses on the oil cooler outlets where they go back into the engine to. It took a lot of pushing and shoving and I couldnt have done it myself. But then I'm a mechanical goose in Turkey.

[Hudson Force]

Here's a photo of the two banjo fittings on my oil cooler:



...any experienced recommendations regarding torque, compression rings, techniques for refit without damaging? Thanks, Dueling banjos in Titusville, Fl, Aythya crew

[shakey doug]

The seals are copper washers when removing lay every thing out in correct order, if removed carefully they can be reused successfully, if a leak accurs you can reanneal them by heating them over a gas flame untill cheery colour and dipping them in cold water .
Tension should be firm + 1/4 turn this can be better judged on job.

Shakey.

[jboats]

I just came across your response to this thread on Yanmar Oil coolers. I have just blown out my oil cooler on the way back to San Diego from Catalina. I believe I caught it soon after it happened when I noticed loss of oil pressure. I lost most of the oil, what remained had gone gray milky looking. I shut down and sailed it in. After talking to some mechanics I removed the bad oil as soon as I got in to port (there were only a couple quarts and a lot of water. I've replaced with clean oil and cranked the motor without ignition. I saw the pressure go up as I cranked. Now I'm removing that oil. I was going to pull of the Oil Cooler next and try and find a replacement ASAP. Is there a way to fix these things and not replace them?

Also, I used the WRONG ANTI-FREEZE. And now I'm worried about what other problems that may have created?? I'm going to flush the old antifreeze and put in the pink stuff now, did I do any other damage by using the wrong antifreeze?

Expensive mistake....

Thanks!
J

Originally Posted by Kapitan

Hello Phil,

I am extremely sorry that I've just mixed the engine models. Your lube oil cooler uses sea water to cool down the lubricating oil.

The cooling water system is of the indirect sea water cooled, fresh water circulation type. The cylinders, cylinder heads and exhaust manifold are cooled with fresh water, and fresh water cooler (heat exchanger) use sea water.

Sea water pumped in from the sea by the sea water pump cools the lube oil in the lube oil cooler and then goes to the heat exchanger, where it cools the fresh water. Then it is sent to the mixing elbow and is discharged from the boat with the exhaust gas. Fresh water is pumped by the fresh water pump from the fresh water tank to the cylinder jacket to cool the cylinders, and the cylinder head. The fresh water pump body also serves as a discharge passageway (line) at the cylinder head outlet and is fitted with a thermostat.

Yanmar does not make their own antifreeze as I know but advices brands and types depending on where you live. We are based in Fethiye/Gocek in Turkey and we use Castrol Antifreeze SF for the Yanmar engines. The antifreeze is pink and includes organic acids. It does not include silicate, phosphate, amine, borate or nitride. Its 3 liter package is sold for € 20,50 here. I don't know the 3 liter price far a good malt whiskey tough

The lube oil cooler material is brass (90/10 CuNi) except tubes. This is why Yanmar does not have any zinc anodes on the lube oil cooler.

I am a Materials Science Engineer and would like to enlighten you about the material. Copper-nickel has excellent resistance to uniform corrosion, remarkable resistance to localised corrosion in chlorinated seawater and higher erosion resistance than other copper alloys and steel. It is also resistant to biofouling. The cause of the failure is mostly attributed to the composition and production of the alloy, occurance of erosion-corrosion and corrosion damage in polluted waters.

In your case I'd suspect from the components of the cooler (manufacturing) and polluted seawater which is very common in harbours. There is very little to do to prevent this happening again if any.


Below you can find the Yanmar Service Manual advice on inspection of the cooler:

To inspect the oil cooler:
* Clean the inside of the sea water pipes with a wire brush to prevent the build up of saale
* If the rubber hose connection or welds are corroded, repair or replace the cooler.
* Apply the following water pressures to the sea water and lube oil lines to check for any leakage. Repair or replace the cooler if there are any leaks.

Lubricating oil circuit: 1,5 kg/cm2 (test pressure)
Sea water circuit: 4 kg/cm2 (test pressure)



Hope I helped

[jboats]

Pulled the Oil Cooler this morning and got a new one on order for Monday. I doubt the antifreeze was the issue since its a seawater system but I am flushing and replacing regardless.

One Oil Cooler $610
Replacement/Flush Oil $100
2 Oil filters $20
2 gallons PINK Coolant $40

One new repair under the belt PRICELESS! unless you add that up $770!!
effing boats.......

[s/v 'Faith']

This is crazy!

Last night the bilge pump was coming on every 2 minutes....

Took apart the battery box after tracing the trickle up to the from of the engine... Hours twisting all over both sides of the cockpit to find a spray of water coming from the oil cooler, shooting about 18" forward up below the fuel tank!

So with 1200 hours on a new (2011) Yanmar 4JH5E, the oil cooler has sprung a leak.

It has a Sen-Dure 1129/2/7 oil cooler with 1" hose in the raw water supply line.

I see there is a 1129/2/7z available that has a pencil zinc. Hs anyone swapped over, or know if the fittings / dimensions are the same?

I am anchored in Marsh Harbour, so will be trying the JB weld route until I can get a new one flown in.

[DeepFrz]

Are there any radiator shops in the islands? They may be able to repair the oil cooler.

[s/v 'Faith']

Thanks for the reply.

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Are there any radiator shops in the islands? They may be able to repair the oil cooler.

Yes, Marsh Harbour is a pretty big town. I suspect the hole can be braced and filled or I might just put a screw in it and cover the hole with JB weld. Either way, I want to replace the oil cooler.

I suppose the 1129/2/7 and the 1129/2/7z are the same unit but that the drain plug on the one without the zinc is replaced by the zinc. If anyone could confirm that it would be great.

[SjoJungfrun]

Thread resurrection in case you too are looking to replace your 4JH3E oil cooler (lube oil cooler per manual).

No affiliation : https://www.mrcool.us/129670-33000-y...il-cooler.html

[KASI]

problem with oil cooler on these kind of engine : shunt it ! if you're not running always at 3600rpm these diesel engines don't need oil cooler