YANMAR 1GM wont start...30 degrees

[CAPTNSTUMPY]

NE PA...temp at about 30 degrees...engine would not start...waited till temp rose to 50 degrees...engine started and ran for three/four minutes, then stopped. Suspect old fuel. Inspected tank, less than half full. Inspected filter and bowl. Appears to be water. Removed old fuel. Topped off with fresh. Added diesel treatment. Removed bowl and filter. Cleaned filter and Rinsed overnight in Acetone. Blew compressed air till dry. Reinstalled filter. Bleed fuel filter. Engine wont start. Sprayed either. Engine started but the stopped. Repeated two times. Same result. Do I need to bleed injector? Can I winterize engine with by using starter and pouring anti freeze into impeller hose, until pink stuff comes out exhaust? Did I damage filter with Acetone? Do I need to bleed injector? Stumped...

[model 10]

Easy with the starting fluid. That is bad stuff in your kind of diesel.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by CAPTNSTUMPY

NE PA...temp at about 30 degrees...engine would not start...waited till temp rose to 50 degrees...engine started and ran for three/four minutes, then stopped. Suspect old fuel. Inspected tank, less than half full. Inspected filter and bowl. Appears to be water. Removed old fuel. Topped off with fresh. Added diesel treatment. Removed bowl and filter. Cleaned filter and Rinsed overnight in Acetone. Blew compressed air till dry. Reinstalled filter. Bleed fuel filter. Engine wont start. Sprayed either. Engine started but the stopped. Repeated two times. Same result. Do I need to bleed injector? Can I winterize engine with by using starter and pouring anti freeze into impeller hose, until pink stuff comes out exhaust? Did I damage filter with Acetone? Do I need to bleed injector? Stumped...

Bleed at the injector.
And use a bucket to pull antifreeze from to winterize.
Just change those filters don't soak them.
Just bleed at the injector pipe, no bubbles.


Sent from SV Cloud Duster

[CAPTNSTUMPY]

Re: Filter, I'm landlocked, and it will take a few days for one to reach me. It was brand new, not dirty, just appeared to have water droplets. Used acetone to dissipate it. My diesel doesn't have a glow plug, so I only gave it a couple of shots of either to narrow my trouble shooting. But I will bleed at the injector, just wasn't sure...thanks.

[GordMay]

Yanmar Help:

Bleeding ➥ BLEEDING AIR

Winterizing ➥ WINTERIZE the ENGINE

Water in Fuel ➥ WATER in the FUEL

[a64pilot]

If you get them turning over and while they are turning over, give it a short shot of Ether, it would be hard to hurt anything, if Ether is going to hurt anything, it's done by loading up the intake with it, and the engine getting too much right at first compression stroke.
Back in the day, a great many engines came with Ether start from the factory, it was usually an Ether can with a solenoid, start turning the engine over and push the button that opened the solenoid, this limited the amount of Ether that could get into the engine at once.

I wouldn't clean a fuel filter, many absorb water and block off flow intentionally to keep water out of the engine, and I'd do my best to get all that water out of the fuel tank as I think over Winter it will cause problems next spring.

[model 10]

[QUOTE=a64pilot;1980671]If you get them turning over and while they are turning over, give it a short shot of Ether, it would be hard to hurt anything, if Ether is going to hurt anything, it's done by loading up the intake with it, and the engine getting too much right at first compression stroke.
Back in the day, a great many engines came with Ether start from the factory, it was usually an Ether can with a solenoid, start turning the engine over and push the button that opened the solenoid, this limited the amount of Ether that could get into the engine at once.



I think you are confusing some old 2 stroke diesels with 4 stroke engines.

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by CAPTNSTUMPY

NE PA...temp at about 30 degrees...engine would not start...waited till temp rose to 50 degrees...engine started and ran for three/four minutes, then stopped. Suspect old fuel. Inspected tank, less than half full. Inspected filter and bowl. Appears to be water. Removed old fuel. Topped off with fresh. Added diesel treatment. Removed bowl and filter. Cleaned filter and Rinsed overnight in Acetone. Blew compressed air till dry. Reinstalled filter. Bleed fuel filter. Engine wont start. Sprayed either. Engine started but the stopped. Repeated two times. Same result. Do I need to bleed injector? Can I winterize engine with by using starter and pouring anti freeze into impeller hose, until pink stuff comes out exhaust? Did I damage filter with Acetone? Do I need to bleed injector? Stumped...

If by 'rinsing overnight', you mean soaking overnight, I would replace the filter. Acetone will soften and distort rubber and dissolve glue, if any of those are in the filter (which may not be obvious), you certainly don't want any dissolved elements entering your injection system. Also, if the filter has been compromised, it could let through the impurities it's supposed to remove.

If you've pulled water into the injection pump, it might be a good idea to take the line off between the pump and the injector, and then reattach it to the pump so that it can discharge into a container to make sure you're squirting fuel and not water. If you do this be careful, the fuel comes out at very high pressure (although in rather small amounts).

Once you're sure you have fuel coming out of the pump, reattach to injector and bleed at injector nut.


Probably not a good idea to use the starter to fill the HE system with antifreeze, but it would work, especially if you have a decompression lever...

[a64pilot]

[QUOTE=Guy;1980782]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

If you get them turning over and while they are turning over, give it a short shot of Ether, it would be hard to hurt anything, if Ether is going to hurt anything, it's done by loading up the intake with it, and the engine getting too much right at first compression stroke.
Back in the day, a great many engines came with Ether start from the factory, it was usually an Ether can with a solenoid, start turning the engine over and push the button that opened the solenoid, this limited the amount of Ether that could get into the engine at once.



I think you are confusing some old 2 stroke diesels with 4 stroke engines.

No, International farm tractors I had, specifically a 986 and a 1486, both inline six cyl four strokes, 1486 Turbo, 986 N/A. Both had factory installed Ether start devices, all it was was a can mount with a small tube going from the solenoid to the intake manifold.
Where Ether damages engines is one of two ways, too much Ether, or just as if not more likely a glow plug engine, if you have glow plugs, be darn sure if you use Ether, they are disabled as Ether will ignite when it hits the glow plug and if the piston is half way up, that is where the damage comes from.
Properly used Ether is not damaging, proper use is just enough to get her to fire, then just a little to keep her running until there is enough heat for her to go on Diesel alone.
I've started many Diesels with Ether as below freezing and without glow plugs, there is no other way, but if you give her a big blast in the intake, then hit the starter, you can literally break head bolts that way, my brother, actually the gas station guy he called blew the heads off of a Oldsmobile Diesel years ago doing that, it was so cold the fuel had hit it's wax point clogging the fuel filter, and when that big blast of Ether hit the glow plugs, the head bolts were the weak link.

[boeing1]

yes, I would not use starting fluid to start you engine, as above, accomplish fuel bleed, also be cautious on water backing up in your exhaust if the engine does not start.....

[capt jgw]

WD40 is better for diagnosing a fuel problem. It's basically kerosene which is just light weight diesel fuel. Engine will run pretty good on it. Spray it into the intake while cranking. If the engine runs OK when spraying, but quits when you stop, you know you have a fuel supply problem.

At 30F the engine should start with a little extra cranking. I would suspect the compression may be a little low.

[model 10]

We had either injectors on ground tugs etc in the military. They were all disconnected. Teenagers with an either button?

[reed1v]

Now that you screwed up the engine, what next? Suggest you have a real mechanic fit a glow plug to the engine so you can warm it up a bit before trying to turn it over. Need also to add some kerosene to the fuel(not too much). What ever you do, do not add anything directly into the cylinders. And keep acetone away from all engines. You can easily mess up the injectors and rings by doing what you did.
Take a tip from Alaskan drivers and 1. warm up the engine oil, 2, warm up the fuel, and 3, warm up the block. Do all three and your good to go. There are simple heaters that attach to the block by a magnet and will heat up the oil sump fairly quickly. Same with heating dip sticks. Glow plugs will heat up the fuel.
Do not add additives unless you like gummy fuel blocking your filters.

[MCOS]

The intermittent change of rpms could indicate a small leak in the fuel line. I had a similar problem which I thought might have been caused by a bad fuel pump. I added an electric pump and found a small leak in the hose. Fuel oozed out when the pump was turned on. I replaced the line and no further problems. The electric pump also helps in purging the fuel system. Turn the pump on, loosen the last fitting to the injector and allow fuel to bleed out, tighten that fitting and then loosen the fitting after the injector and allow fuel to bleed. You have to turn the engine over with the compression release held up to allow the injector to pump fuel through.

For the starter, make sure the connections from battery to the starter are all good. A little corrosion makes for a huge drop in voltage. If suspect, check the voltage at the battery by using a volt meter across the terminals while cranking. Compare the voltage at the battery to what you get with meter placed at the starter terminal when cranking. If much difference, trace the starter wire back and continue checking across any isolation switches or other connections. You may want to pull your battery and take it to an auto supply store. They can load test the battery, or you can get a cheap load tester at Harbor Freight for $21 and do it yourself.

[01kiwijohn]

30F isn't all that cold and fuel gelling should not be an issue, so you should be able to start the engine by using a hair dryer as an intake heater, if you've got access to 120V power. Much safer than ether. I am very familiar with the IH 466 engine series so am well aware if the old ether injection systems; which were basically designed to limit the operator's ability to shoot too much in and destroy to top ring lands. Computer controlled engine management and pre-heat systems have rendered these obsolete.
These engines have only a single ground brush, in the starter, and that can wear, reducing the cranking speed, gradually, over a period of time, without you really noticing it. I got a local auto electric shop to clean up the commutator, replace the ground brush, and it made a remarkable improvement. Slow cranking speeds mean difficult starting.
Filters are relatively cheap, so don't mess with them, buy new and carry spares.
Follow the Yanmar bleeding instructions and you can't go wrong.
Hope that helps you, let me know what you find and if there's anything else I can do.