Transmission Make/Model Help

[MaineGuy]

I have a transmission issue and I'm struggling with the make/model. I can't seem to find any tags on the housing and the only markings I have been able to find are: "Borg Warner" stamped into the housing base and another set of numbers (again stamped into the housing) above where it says Borg Warner which appear to be either "04-803" or "04-303"

The engine is a Westerbeke 30b3 and according to the manuals I have that show possible transmissions, I don't see anything that says Borg Warner.

**Not my photos, but this is what mine looks like**





Any help is appreciated. There is a gawd awful sound coming from this transmission which I'm afraid will require a rebuild or replacement. Trying to figure out what the parts (and maybe labor) will end up costing me.

[Greg4cocokai]

I am pretty sure it’s a Borg Warner 71C.

[MaineGuy]

Forgot to also ask: How the heck does one find out the gear ratio?

[sailor_ed]

That one doesn't appear to have a reduction gear.

[sailor_ed]

Really need some pics of the trans in question. On the port side of the transmission there should be a brass plate with the model and serial number. Unfortunately the fasteners can rust off and it goes missing. Still and all most Borg Warner Velvet Drive transmissions are quite repairable. Have to get it out of the boat though.

[MaineGuy]

Originally Posted by sailor_ed

Really need some pics of the trans in question. On the port side of the transmission there should be a brass plate with the model and serial number. Unfortunately the fasteners can rust off and it goes missing. Still and all most Borg Warner Velvet Drive transmissions are quite repairable. Have to get it out of the boat though.

Yeah, I don't see any brass plate with descriptions/models anywhere, but I will head down to the boat tonight and take another peek. Otherwise it may be a few days for me to actually pull the transmission out and get some clearer pictures.

Any advice on what NOT to do when removing the transmission? Any tips or tricks I should know before hand so I don't have an even costlier mistake?

[Greg4cocokai]

My 71C has a v-drive ( in backwards ) and after cleaning the tag it’s still hard to read. I circled in red where the tag should be. They come in many different reductions, some left hand and some right! Hope it’s some help.



Greg

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by MaineGuy

I have a transmission issue and I'm struggling with the make/model. I can't seem to find any tags on the housing and the only markings I have been able to find are: "Borg Warner" stamped into the housing base and another set of numbers (again stamped into the housing) above where it says Borg Warner which appear to be either "04-803" or "04-303"

The engine is a Westerbeke 30b3 and according to the manuals I have that show possible transmissions, I don't see anything that says Borg Warner.

**Not my photos, but this is what mine looks like**





Any help is appreciated. There is a gawd awful sound coming from this transmission which I'm afraid will require a rebuild or replacement. Trying to figure out what the parts (and maybe labor) will end up costing me.

I would disconnect the flange and see if it still makes the same sounds when shifted into gear. I suggest that because there appears to be an automotive universal joint in the mix there. It could be worn out as it's not supposed to be there in the first place! U-joints are not designed to take thrust loads like the propeller shaft produces.

[DougR]

As stated by others, the transmission in the photos is a BW, probably 71 series, and it appears to be set up with a u-joint shaft, probably to drive a Vdrive.

When you look for the serial number tag on your unit look just ahead of the shift lever on the port side of the case. It's a brass tag about 1" X 1.5" riveted on a flat surface looking "up".

The transmission is fastened to the flywheel cover plate either with bolts into the case, or with studs in the case and nuts securing the transmission. If you have studs, you will need to be able to slide the prop shaft and coupling aft about 3" to allow the transmission to slide clear of the studs. You might have to slide the engine forward to accomplish this.

After you get the transmission off the engine, and before you dive into the tranny, check the torsional drive plate mounted on the engine flywheel. It is usually a spring plate, but could be a rubber composite assembly. Make sure the plate appears to be in good condition. If the drive plate is on its last legs, it could be that the plate is making all the racket and not the gearbox.

DougR

[Greg4cocokai]

Originally Posted by DougR

As stated by others, the transmission in the photos is a BW, probably 71 series, and it appears to be set up with a u-joint shaft, probably to drive a Vdrive.



When you look for the serial number tag on your unit look just ahead of the shift lever on the port side of the case. It's a brass tag about 1" X 1.5" riveted on a flat surface looking "up".



The transmission is fastened to the flywheel cover plate either with bolts into the case, or with studs in the case and nuts securing the transmission. If you have studs, you will need to be able to slide the prop shaft and coupling aft about 3" to allow the transmission to slide clear of the studs. You might have to slide the engine forward to accomplish this.



After you get the transmission off the engine, and before you dive into the tranny, check the torsional drive plate mounted on the engine flywheel. It is usually a spring plate, but could be a rubber composite assembly. Make sure the plate appears to be in good condition. If the drive plate is on its last legs, it could be that the plate is making all the racket and not the gearbox.



DougR

+1, good post Doug!

[Fiveslide]

Originally Posted by DougR

After you get the transmission off the engine, and before you dive into the tranny, check the torsional drive plate mounted on the engine flywheel. It is usually a spring plate, but could be a rubber composite assembly. Make sure the plate appears to be in good condition. If the drive plate is on its last legs, it could be that the plate is making all the racket and not the gearbox.

DougR

I'd go ahead and plan on replacing the damper plate. If it is, at all, difficult to split the engine from the transmission, you don't want to do it again later.

Does sound like a knocking/rattling noise? In both forward and reverse or just one gear?

Lots of people rebuild these themselves. Don't fret too much. There is plenty of instructions out on the web. I thought about doing mine myself after my transmission cooler failed and pumped water all in the transmission. I didn't rebuild it, decided to see if it would fail. Been going strong for 2 years since that happened. Those velvet drives are tough.

[MaineGuy]

Originally Posted by Fiveslide

I'd go ahead and plan on replacing the damper plate. If it is, at all, difficult to split the engine from the transmission, you don't want to do it again later.

Does sound like a knocking/rattling noise? In both forward and reverse or just one gear?

Lots of people rebuild these themselves. Don't fret too much. There is plenty of instructions out on the web. I thought about doing mine myself after my transmission cooler failed and pumped water all in the transmission. I didn't rebuild it, decided to see if it would fail. Been going strong for 2 years since that happened. Those velvet drives are tough.

With all shafts connected, in gear, forward or reverse, it sounds like someone is beating the floor pan with a hammer at a rapid rate.

I disconnected right at the transmission and in either gear, at idle RPM it makes a slight noticeable noise, kind of faint. If I throttle up from 1100 to 1300 the noise is completely gone.

The advice given to me by the onsite mechanic was that the damper plate needs replacement, but he hasn’t removed the drive yet. Which is why I’m looking for make/model to see about replacement costs or rebuild costs.

I’m not a “gearhead”, though I’d love to learn. And I’m not afraid to tear into the project myself, just don’t want to be in a bigger mess than I am now.

[SteveSails]

You can check the gear ratio using a strobe tachometer app on your phone. Paint a white dot on the engine crank pulley and on the coupling to make it easy to see. Run the engine at about 1000RPM and put it gear (caution, common sense needed here). Measure the engine RPM, measure the coupling RPM and do the math.
Not all phones work with all apps and some phones don't work at all but I bet you could find somebody with a phone that does. Google tachometer strobe app and you should find something.

[Fiveslide]

Certainly sounds like the damper plate to me. I think your transmission is fine.

I had more water than transmission fluid in mine for who knows how long. It could have been there for anywhere between 0 and 50ish hours. I don't check the transmission fluid every day or even every week. I check it more often now though. Once changed the fluid in a velvet drive that had not been changed in at least seventeen years, the owner had not done it during his entire time of ownership.

They're nearly bullet proof.

[MaineGuy]

UPDATE: Transmission removed, new damper plate is on its way. The old one was torched. The transmission itself seems to turn over very well by hand, like silky smooth. Hoping the only issue was the damper plate.

Thinking I may replace that U joint either way, just because it's about 4 years old and is probably due.