snorkels for diesels?

[goboatingnow]

remember the crank case breather too !!!!


dave

[tdoster]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

remember the crank case breather too !!!!


dave

In reading through this, first thought is once sea water gets into the dipstick tube, all bets are off.


I am more interested in making sure I have enough pump capacity to begin with. Amazing that a simple test you can perform on most boats will fail 80% of the time:

Take the plug out of the speedo tube and you know you are good if the bilge pumps cycle and keep up with the water.

If the hole is bigger than that, then I am not sure having the engine be able to run for a few minutes more would make too much of a difference. If the water is coming in faster than a good bilge pump setup can handle, then it is probably time to get off the boat.

I am all for tuning an intake to reduce noise.

[model 10]

That would be one hell of a bilge pump that could keep up with a 1.5" hole in your boat. We have 3 electric pumps and can keep up with a garden hose but when I remove a speed transducer it looks like a serious amount of water.
If you pursue the engine air duct idea, look to an automotive world air filter. K&N makes several filters that will attach right onto the duct. Good quality, cleanable etc.

[Cheechako]

I don't see why it wouldn't work. SS flex hose comes to mind. Don't use dryer ducting. The water ingress will get into the flywheel etc and cause some engine load etc.

[tdoster]

Originally Posted by Guy

That would be one hell of a bilge pump that could keep up with a 1.5" hole in your boat. We have 3 electric pumps and can keep up with a garden hose but when I remove a speed transducer it looks like a serious amount of water.
If you pursue the engine air duct idea, look to an automotive world air filter. K&N makes several filters that will attach right onto the duct. Good quality, cleanable etc.

Point made. A garden hose puts out about 200 GPH. Most boats under 40 feet may have one or two 500 GPH units that are half clogged and running too long of hoses, which will hugely decrease their output since output is based upon little to no back pressure and perfectly clear intake.

We use a Rule 1500 and 4000. The 1500 draws 4 amps and can run for hours on the one 24 series dedicated battery. The 4000 is like a fire hose and draws about 15 amps. The 1500 is in the lowest spot of the bilge and the 4000 higher up to keep it out of the normal crud on the bottom and has a much shorter hose run, so if it kicks in, it will be for purpose.

The cost of adding the 4000 was around $350 with the switch and hose.

Again, by the time you snorkel the boat, extend and seal the dipstick tube, seal the rest of the engine and transmission as well as the intake and crafting a decent attachment, lest we forget fuel tanks and vents, etc. you are close to the same costs but have done less to mitigate the problem the OP is using the idea to solve. You are also going to decrease slightly the efficiency of the engine by adding hose, you increase the pressure and the engine must extend more work to pull air in.

So, if the goal is to help mitigate disaster by extending the engine run time, I would say that increasing the ability to pump the boat is a better option from common failure points and go further with the insurance company as common sense mitigation.