Seized Injectors - Need Ideas to Remove!

[JPA Cate]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Thanks sailah, very much appreciated.

Right now I am considering three options.
Your method as just described.
Using the engine to fire them out.
Electrolysis bath (assuming it is rust that is holding it together).

Of the methods you are considering, perhaps the progressive heating/spot cooling method is least likely to cause any collateral damage.

Ann

[NoTies]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

Definately the better solution and if the dolly is made to fit the injector end properly the method most likely to be effective without destroying the injector.

How can they press the injector out when it's fitted inside the pre-combustion chamber?

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by sazarac

Take the head to a machine shop and have them press the injectors out. Then buy new injectors.

Not his problem - it's the seized mounts based on his pic.

You need something called a double D wrench. I could not find the socket, but here's some adapters. Perhaps with your searching for sockets, you'll find the direct application:

https://www.maxairtech.com/hardware/adapters/

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by Wotname

A couple more images so everyone is on the same page

It is the valve nut that is stuck and I can dissemble the injector down to this nut and valve body. I can remove valve itself but so far I haven't tried real hard to remove the valve body. However I will attempt to remove the valve body before using any heat.

It was unsaid but I assumed apparent that I am trying not to damage anything. It is easy to get stuff apart if you are happy to break things!!!!!!

Looking closer, it may be that you need a D socket; I believe the same folks would have that...

http://i1.wp.com/tone-lizard.com/wp-...size=255%2C161

[buddah]

Time is money it's been said. Quit fooling around, take a big punch and bigger hammer and punch the injectors out. Replace both injectors and pre-cups. You should have purchased them by now anyway.



The problem will probably be the metal removed by the rust at the "O" ring locations. I have used epoxy to fair this corroded area back to a smooth sealing surface, itself a process that requires some intelligent technique and the right epoxy.

[sazarac]

Originally Posted by Olddan1943

Some times it is best to give up early, before you do additional damage.
Pull the head, take it to a GOOD machine shop.
Throw away ALL the injectors.
They MAY let you watch the magic or maybe not. If they dont let you watch and they are successful, be thankful you didn't have to buy a new head.

Exactly

[kevinnem]

I now your dealing with more of a rust issue, . but if it was carbon, there is a product that I use on stoves called "easy off" I am sure it would work on carbon locked things. will have no effect on rust.

[svspirited]

I love PB Blaster but it doesn't always do the trick. Use Kroil in those cases, it seeps into spaces that you would not believe and has managed to unfreeze everything that PB Blaster was unable to budge. If you can soak it in a bucket full of the stuff for a day or two I would be very surprised if you are unable to break it loose.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by buddah

Time is money it's been said. Quit fooling around, take a big punch and bigger hammer and punch the injectors out. Replace both injectors and pre-cups. You should have purchased them by now anyway.



The problem will probably be the metal removed by the rust at the "O" ring locations. I have used epoxy to fair this corroded area back to a smooth sealing surface, itself a process that requires some intelligent technique and the right epoxy.

Thanks for your input buddah, and I am happy that my thread has elicited your first post after 8+ years of CF membership .

Regarding time being money, my situation is my time is free and I can do many many hours if I need to. The engine is a project and there is no time frame to have it finished - heck I another engine and boat to complete before for finding a hull for the 2QM20 .

As some else commented, it becomes a matter of pride of not taking it a machine shop unless all other attempts fail.

And the shops I know of don't guarantee they will get them out without collateral damage which I end up paying for. Opps, sorry, we had to break the injector but we can supply a new one for $xx. Oh, the head needed some machining after we removed the injector, that will be $xx. No sorry we can't quote you a fixed price 'cause we don't know how long it will take... and so on.

If something is going to break, I'd rather break it myself for free than pay others to break it for me

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by kevinnem

I now your dealing with more of a rust issue, . but if it was carbon, there is a product that I use on stoves called "easy off" I am sure it would work on carbon locked things. will have no effect on rust.

Thanks and quite possibility rust and carbon!

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

Not his problem - it's the seized mounts based on his pic.

You need something called a double D wrench. I could not find the socket, but here's some adapters. Perhaps with your searching for sockets, you'll find the direct application:

https://www.maxairtech.com/hardware/adapters/

Like this one I made for the YSE front pulley. It fits and I have tried using it to no avail with a high static torque but I haven't used it in a impact driver yet as it may destroy the custom socket. I will wait till I have heat cycled the problem a few times before risking the socket.

[Breeze Dreamer]

Another Vote for HEAT!


I know it has been suggested - but have you actually tried heat yet? I love heat for getting annoying things off!



I had an old bike with a shot bottom bracket. Took it too a very professional bike shop to get them to fit a new one. They couldn't get it off and gave me the bike back a few days later!


I couldn't believe they were defeated so easily. So I had to get my HEAT WRENCH out of the tool box - hey presto!


Get the heat on it...I'm assuming your putting in new injectors and seals anyway, so you can give it a good blasting. I did an injector the other day on a ford focus diesel and was dreading the whole injector removal fiasco...I loosened the clamp and the injector practically climbed out it's self...probably the only time in my life that working on an engine has gone to plan / no skinned knuckles!



Wear your gloves.



HEAT IS NEAT!

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Breeze Dreamer

Another Vote for HEAT!


I know it has been suggested - but have you actually tried heat yet? I love heat for getting annoying things off!



I had an old bike with a shot bottom bracket. Took it too a very professional bike shop to get them to fit a new one. They couldn't get it off and gave me the bike back a few days later!


I couldn't believe they were defeated so easily. So I had to get my HEAT WRENCH out of the tool box - hey presto!


Get the heat on it...I'm assuming your putting in new injectors and seals anyway, so you can give it a good blasting. I did an injector the other day on a ford focus diesel and was dreading the whole injector removal fiasco...I loosened the clamp and the injector practically climbed out it's self...probably the only time in my life that working on an engine has gone to plan / no skinned knuckles!



Wear your gloves.



HEAT IS NEAT!

Thanks Breeze Dreamer, good to see another long term member making their first post and choosing my thread to do it in . Two in one day!

I do agree that heat is great (and heat + hammer is better) but to date I haven't used heat on this job - mainly due to having other stuff to do this last week or so. And I am taking a cautious approach with using concentrated heat of a cast iron head. Yes, I know some say it doesn't matter but I really don't want to warp (or crack) the head.

I'm still trying to remove the injectors without causing damage to them although I may have to forego such niceties...

Thanks again for your input - stay tuned!

[Kit_L]

Joining this thread to find out what happens!

[Yeoey]

Hi,
Maybe a bit left field but from my involvement in restoration of old car many years back I learned 2 tricks from experienced car restorers
One trick was to soak a rusted item in molasses for at least a week and Eventually the rust goes and leaves shiny metal and when the brakes cylindars on my old 57 Lotus Eleven were seized the mechanic managed to save all 4 callipers (girling AR and NR) by heating them in an oven with wax on top of each calliper - once wax has melted the callipers were removed from oven and allowed to harden / cool down naturally - done many times until the wax (in its heated liquid form) had penetrated down the “frozen/seized” cylinder walls
Yeoey
(Hanse 415 Sea Rambler)