Rebuilding Sherwood G65 for Perkins 4-108

[Trekka]

For every part I have needed Depco was the most expensive or next to the most expensive. I could have bought a new pump for about $320 elsewhere while Depco wanted $489.

[Chief Engineer]

That's curious indeed.

Where did you find cheaper pumps?

I'll use them?

[Trekka]

Originally Posted by Chief Engineer

Where did you find cheaper pumps?

Here's one of a few places:
SHERWOOD G65 PERKINS COOLING PUMP - Discount Marine Supplies
Price: $ 339.95 / Each

[Trekka]

Well, I finally got the two old bearings off the shaft. I got a loaner 2 ton puller from an auto parts store, and it did not budge them. I went to Home Depot and found a galvanised pipe with a 1" ID and after filing down the internal seam it fit over the head of the shaft and rested on the upper bearing. With a galvanised cap screwed on the end of the pipe, and the shaft resting on a block of oak, I took a big, red, plumbers wrench and pounded the end of the pipe. It took that little bit of extra ooomph in every stroke to barely budge the bearings. But after a lot of effort over a couple of days, soaking in PB Blaster inbetween - and only nicking my hand once - I got them pushed down to the end of the shaft. At that point the puller worked the final inch until they were both off.

Now the next stage begins: getting the new bearings on.

I read somewhere about putting the shaft in the freezer, which I did overnight. This morning I took the new bearings from the pack and with a little lithium grease - after wiping the frost off the shaft - tried to get one on. No go.

The puller would not work with the shaft reversed so I tried setting the bearing on a plank, and with a block of oak on the cap end of the shaft took a rubber mallet to the block and carefully knocked it in. Had a couple adjustments right away to make sure the shaft was straight, and with just a little effort bearing #1 was on.

Now what?

How do I get this bearing all the way down to the cap end of the shaft? The pipe trick won't work as it pressed right against the balls - which was not a problem for the old bearings I was removing, but I cannot do that with the new ones.

Suggestions? (FWIW the repair kit came with 4 bearings in case I mess a couple up).

[Chief Engineer]

Take a block of hardwood
Drill a hole in it a little larger than the shaft
Place the shaft (bearing first) over the hole
Sharp taps should drive it home.

This is where a brass hammer does wonders
A rubber /deadblow hammer migh not have enough weight.

[Trekka]

Well, I am almost done with the shaft & bearings and have jumped ahead to replacing the shaft seal that is mounted in the pump body. Here is a picture taken after the shaft was removed, when the old seal broke into two parts. One part is still bedded in the housing (the metal ring), the other part (with spring collar) just to the right. The new seal is on the left and I note that it has a rubber body inside the metal casing unlike the old one which just had the rubber collar:



I removed what was left of the old seal, cleaned up the space, and also cleaned out the drain holes.

I put the new seal in the freezer for a day then gave it a very thin coat of lithium grease. Carefully placed part way in the socket I took a 2x3 block of wood and with a rubber mallet knocked it cleanly into place.



When I ran my finger over the inside of the housing past the seal, I could feel a little lip. I took the block again and, confident the seal was bedded evenly, walloped it a few times.

There still seems to be a very slight lip.
Very slight.
Is this ok?



Coming tomorrow: getting the bearings on the shaft

[Chief Engineer]

I feel for you in rebuilding this pump.

I understand that you are "boldy going".

Using this board is the best or one of the best sources of info.

The job shouldn't take much more than 90 minutes following removal.

Get it as flush as you can....and you'll be OK

[Trekka]

Thanks

I greatly appreciate the responses to my many questions. The last thing I want to do is make a mistake that would compromise the engine and result in major repairs.

I do think I could do it now in a couple of hours - now that I have some clues as to what I'm doing. Well, maybe 3 hours. The first bearing I got on the shaft was almost all the way down when I accidentally damaged it's seal. But it took me less than 10 minutes to get it off, and about the same to get another on & down the shaft.

In the meantime more of the cooling system is coming apart. That is, I'm disassembling more of it. Had to take the oil cooler off tonight to get to the engine petcock. Now that it's off I'm glad I did as the view inside the engine shows severe buildup that needs cleaning. And I might as well clean the oil cooler itself while I'm at it, too.

[Chief Engineer]

Once you have done it....be careful...once people find out you can do it......you will have pumps coming at you left and right......

Congatulations and welcome to the wonderfull world of yachting...the motto is,

Yachting is.....fixing your vessel....in exotic places

[Trekka]

Ok, next step: getting the shaft with its 2 bearings back into the housing?

I'm guessing... lightly grease outside of bearings, take ye olde block of wood and rubber mallet....

[Chief Engineer]

You don't want to grease the outer shell of the bearing.

You want that to be tight.

As long as the bearings are "square" to the pump a light tapping will seat them

[Trekka]

Ok, got the shaft & bearings back in the housing. Thought they were not fully in, but checking the photo's I took before removing them:



I see there is a little bit of the bearing casing showing. So they match.



Before I bolt it back on I'd like to repaint it. Wasn't going to, but....

Question is how do I get the last of the green corrosion off? I've scraped, and scrubbed using bronze wool. But it's very slow going. Anything faster?

[Chief Engineer]

Wire wheel

[jfhspike]

I know this is a long-ago post, but it's one of the best on the topic of rebuilding this pump, so I want to throw in some information here.

1. The bearings needed in this pump can be cross-referenced (after quite a lot of work) to 99502H (SKF number). Fortunately, these are used in various mowers and go-carts, so you can find them on ebay -- ten for $12, or four for something like $7.50 as of today. Compared to the $10 or $12 per seal that Sherwood wants, that's a pretty good deal.

2. The seal on this pump is made by Erving, and has part number 10514 or 10514C. It's unbelievably hard to find. But the good news is that there's also a cross-reference for this, to the SKF 6229, or Timken 712024. The 10514 can be found for 16-18 dollars on ebay, but shipping brings that up to closer to $25. Ebay shows the Timken available for $11, shipped. Amazon has the SKF version for $12, more or less.

3. The groove in the shaft shown in Trekka's 08-11-2008 pictures --- not the machine groove on the left, but the shallow groove about 3/8 or 1/2" to the right, halfway between the machined groove and the funny patch that looks as if it might have been filed away or something --- is deep enough to be serious. It's quite possible that the new seal's lip will be damaged by the edge of that groove, or that the new seal won't actually "seal" as well as it should. My inclination would be to replace the shaft in this case, but it might not be necessary. There's someone on Ebay selling replacement shafts (and covers) at a pretty decent price, or you can buy a shaft from Sherwood for not too much more.

Anyhow, if you're stuck in East Nowhere and need a new pump bearing or seal, maybe this'll help you get it.

--John

[jfhspike]

I meant to also say: the Erving seal is 1/4" thick, but the SKF one is 3/8" thick. But that's OK, because the socket you press it into is 3/8 deep, so it fits fine.