Perkins 4-108 1983 Fuel Pump

[jimisbell]

I had an engine failure Saturday. The lift pump gave up the ghost.

Its on a Perkins 4-108. The "New" version built in 1983 with the heat exchanger on top of the exhaust manifold.

The pump is unmarked but appears in the manual with the number 26401702 but I cannot find a match in any of the catalogs. Mine is the "4 bolt" style that looks identical to the "2 bolt" style except for the mounting flange and the finger that contacts the cam shaft. So probably either overhaul kit would work on it.

BUT I dont know what the number for the overhaul kit is??

Anyone know the number?

Anyone have an old lift pump core that I could rebuild for a spare? Its not much fun being towed home by the Coast Guard...

[AnchorageGuy]

Foley is the major supplier of Perkins parts for older engines so they would be my first suggestion to find what you need. A new pump is not very expensive so a replacement might be that better way to go.

[Alan Wheeler]

Has it failed mechanicaly, or just the diaphragm? Very rare to fail mechanicaly and I would not bother with a spare. Weigh it up against how many hrs the engine has done so far.
When you take the small conver off the pump, you will find a fine screen. Take that out and through it over your shoulder. Filters do the same job. The screen can block and is a difficult thing to get at and often ovelooked in a fuel problem situation.
If it simply is not pumping, The diaphragm is most likely the suspect. It can 't get a very small pin hole from wear. I would advice this is carried as a spare, not the entire pump.

[pete]

That does not come up as a good part number. If you give us the build list (2 letters and 5 numbers), then I, or any other Perkins dealer here, can give you the correct part number. For the build list, if it is a 4.108, it will probably start with ED. Good luck.

Pete

[By Invitation]

I bought a new pump for my 4-108 from Trans Atlantic Diesels. A new pump was cheaper than the rebuild kit - go figure. Was under a 100 bucks if I remember right.

[jimisbell]

Originally Posted by pete

That does not come up as a good part number. If you give us the build list (2 letters and 5 numbers), then I, or any other Perkins dealer here, can give you the correct part number. For the build list, if it is a 4.108, it will probably start with ED. Good luck.

Pete

The build number is : ED50025U590283K

I hesitate to do it this way as I have gotten the wrong thing on several occasions when the dealer insisted he needed the build number. Perhaps because previous owners have retrofitted something. I was told by one dealer that with that build number I could not use spin on oil filters, but that is what my engine uses.

But in the Perkins Manual the part number for this pump is listed as 2641702 ( page 26 issue 2 10/81 Plate "A") but they have pictures of TWO pumps and both have the same number on them. One is a 2 bolt version and the other is a 4 bolt version (Mine is the 4 bolt version) other than the rocker finger and the mounting they look the same (except that neither of the pictures matches my rocker finger which is straight not curved it looks more like the finger on the 2 bolt pump but my pump is the 4 bolt pump!!) so the same diaphram probably fits both pumps.

I would be interested in both a rebuild kit AND a spare pump AND a gasket for the mounting flange (the PO had it mounted with NO gasket) depending on the price. I would rebuild this pump and keep it as the spare. THOUGH I think this pump is actually working and may just need to have that screen thrown over my shoulder as suggested. Since it was not pumping any fuel when I operated the priming lever with the output pipe opened up but as soon as I removed the intake hose and then pumped the primer again it squirted all over me!!! The intake hose was not pluged and I was able to blow air back thru it.

The fuel tank was NEW from West Marine 10 months ago as were all the hoses. What surprizes me is that I have only dumped in pale yellow or red fuel (I have watched it as I poured it thru my Baha Filter) but what is in the hoses and pump is BLACK and I asume what is in the tank is also black.

[jimisbell]

Originally Posted by Chuck Baier

Foley is the major supplier of Perkins parts for older engines so they would be my first suggestion to find what you need. A new pump is not very expensive so a replacement might be that better way to go.

I have had little luck with Foley. They seem not interested in dealing with small orders and actually told me so. So I now run the other way when they get near. Perhaps if the order is in the hundereds they are friendlyer but they were quite rude with me.

[pete]

I think you had an extra zero in that first part number. 2641702 supersedes to kit number ULPK0014 (4 bolt lift pump kit). We have them in stock, but again, you can purchase that kit number from any Perkins dealer. I can check to see if a rebuild kit is available if you'd like. Good luck.

Pete

Edit: Repair kit is part # ULPR0005...about $11 less than lift pump kit.

2nd edit: Gasket # is 3685R007..appears to be included in kit..

[never monday]

Call TAD or Rob at Complete Yacht in Ft. Lauderdale. Either probably has one on the shelf

[cal40john]

I don't know if this is a good suggestion or not. You could go to an electric fuel pump and not use the mechanical lift pump. It is separate from the engine, you can find them anywhere, you can replace it with any brand. One drawback I can think of is you are now dependant on electricity to run your engine, but you can't get it started without electricity, so it seems a pretty remote failure scenario anyway. I've heard that many modern engines have gone to electric pumps anyway.

Since the fuel tank in my boat is in the keel, there is an electric fuel pump in my fuel line since the specs say that the lift pump shouldn't operate against that much heighth and an aux pump should be fitted. Anyway to the point, since the electric pump is a greater capacity than the lift pump, I've thought that I could just bypass the lift pump if I suspected that it had failed. I'm actually in the other failure mode right now, the old electric pump failed and I'm running the engine off of the mechanical lift pump on the engine until I get the new electric pump installed again. I'm not that far out of spec, I figure if I keep my fuel tank half full I'm in spec. My belief is that the engine would run anyway, even with a near empty tank, it would just make the mechanical pump fail early.

John

[Pblais]

I don't know if this is a good suggestion or not. You could go to an electric fuel pump and not use the mechanical lift pump. It is separate from the engine, you can find them anywhere, you can replace it with any brand. One drawback I can think of is you are now dependant on electricity to run your engine, but you can't get it started without electricity, so it seems a pretty remote failure scenario anyway. I've heard that many modern engines have gone to electric pumps anyway.

I have a manual electric pump that I can tiurn on or off from a switch. It's not used in notmal operation but is handy for bleeding the lines. It's easy to install and you can use the new style pmps that don't have a diaphram. It's only important that the pressure be regulated and does not exceed the specs. That means when the pressure reaches a level it stops.

[jimisbell]

The electric pump idea is a good one. All I will need to fabricate is a block off plate for the normal mechanical pump mount/opening in the block and I can make that the mount for the electric pump. I see no need to have both mechanical and electric unless its to save the mechanical one for a back up in case I cannot find a replacement electric pump in some backwater. Just throw it in with my spares.

[never monday]

Jim,
just let the dead mechanical one be your block off plate. BUT, bypass it with fuel hose completly. You'll need about 5psi to feed the injection pump. Do look for a pump the is continous duty. I like the Holley "blue" pump it comes with a regulator. Or IP used a Stweart-Warner pump. Walbro is also excelent and pricy.

[jimisbell]

The only problem I see with using the old pump for a block off plate is that it will wear on the cam, it may break off with the finger falling into the oil sump and if I take it off I can rebuild it as a spare so it still has value.

[never monday]

With no load on the pump, the wear should be less. If your going to build a block off, trace the gasket on to a 1/4" piece of Al. you can cut that with a good jig saw and quality blade. then drill you holes and seal it with a new gasket and some Permatex Ultra Gray.