No Exhaust Water

[Sailmonkey]

The mixing elbow is where the water enters the exh line. Often times it clogs there

[SkiprJohn]

Depending on how deep your seacock is determines how much water should be flowing through. It should flow very strong once all the debris is flush out of it. Hook that hose back up to your water pump. Take the other hose to the engine off and start the engine for just a second. How's the pressure from the pump? Should shoot out a very heavy steady stream.

Turn the engine off quickly because it could overheat.

Check your whole exhaust system from start to finish. Did someone install a check valve or a manual valve in there somewhere that might be closed or clogged?

I think everything else has been covered by other folks and the mixing elbow has been mentioned.

Most important. Was it working properly before you ran it dry?

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by sabray

Check from the exhaust elbow all the way to the discharge point. Check the water lift. You probably did not smell the impeller but hot exhaust burning a hose or trashing a water lift. Back
Plate on the pump may have been ruined too.

yep, you probably bruned up the inside of your exhaust hose. I'd be surprised if you didnt with no cooling water that long... does your temp gauge/alarm work?

[Contraman]

Thanks for the help. Love these forums. I have one for my motorcycle that has been equally helpful for someone like me who thinks he's handy and knows he's cheap.

I started at the begining and worked my way back in some cases having to hack saw corroded clamps to get some of the hoses off! It's a 1980 Pearson that was given to me for free so I can't complain too much.

There was some corrosion in the mixing elbow, but the exhaust hose to the muffler was not collapsed as some feared but I need to replace since I mangled it getting it off.

I'll be putting everything together and firing up the engine tomorrow morning. Hopefully it will all work and I'll see water coming out the stern of the boat.

Someone suggested a oil change given the overheating. Does this make sense? I'll let you all know how things work out tomorrow.





Water now flows easily through the engine by blowing on hoses.

[Acushla]

You seem to have bypassed the comment to check that the exhaust trap has not melted or distorted in some way and you must eliminate this before going forward. If you ran with the raw water inlet shut off then any plastic on the exhaust sytem will most likely melt or go into a plastic state and distort, (many exhaust traps are made of plastic these days).
The engine will require approx 15 litres a minute cooling water flow at about 2000 rpm.
Running the pump dry not only damages the impeller. You should check that the lobe in the pump casing has not sheared its attachment and that the casing end faces have not been worn too far. With remachined end faces in the pump casing and end plate you should have a .001 to .003 thou of interference fit with the gasket fitted.

Hopr this helps
Jim

[WaterJunkie]

First check your oil to see if you have water in the oil. If your oil is clean, disconnect the hose after the water pump. Start the engine and see the water flow. There should be a lot of flow. Keep disconnecting hoses till you find the blockage.

Most common blockage point is the exhaust manifold, or the riser after the manifold.

If you get no flow, Check and make sure you have the impeller fins in the correct direction. I've seen people put the impellers in backward.

Lastly, you can take the hose that goes between the strainer and pump and stick it in a bucket full of water.

Good luck.

[Contraman]

Originally Posted by Acushla

You seem to have bypassed the comment to check that the exhaust trap has not melted or distorted in some way and you must eliminate this before going forward. If you ran with the raw water inlet shut off then any plastic on the exhaust sytem will most likely melt or go into a plastic state and distort, (many exhaust traps are made of plastic these days).
The engine will require approx 15 litres a minute cooling water flow at about 2000 rpm.
Running the pump dry not only damages the impeller. You should check that the lobe in the pump casing has not sheared its attachment and that the casing end faces have not been worn too far. With remachined end faces in the pump casing and end plate you should have a .001 to .003 thou of interference fit with the gasket fitted.

Hopr this helps
Jim

When you use the term "exhaust trap" are you taking about the "muffler" that is fed by a rubber hose coming from a metal exhaust pipe from the engine and then has another rubber hose carrying the exhaust and water out the stern of the boat. It's a round black object with two 11/2 in fittings coming out of the top for the rubber hoses to attach. I think this object is metal.


I checked both of these hoses, since several people said that they have two layers and the inner layer often melts/collapse in these conditions. My hoses feeding the "muffler" looked fine so I'm assuming that the muffler(exhaust trap???) is ok.There is no water in my oil. So I'll put everything together tomorrow and give it a try. thanks.

[SkiprJohn]

Yes, some of the older engine exhaust setups had a metal can with a hose in and then a hose out. The Vetus modes had an inlet in the top and an outlet in the top. Acted as a muffler and made the water surge to the stern. If the hot exhaust hose going in was not damaged then the one going to the stern shouldn't be either but everything is worth checking if you still get no exhaust water once you start your engine.

You said you replaced the impeller and the old one didn't have any fins missing so hopefully nothing is stuck in the cooling passages in the engine.

kind regards,

[Contraman]

Still not getting water out exhaust. Biggest problem seems to be a restriction still in the foe of water to the "muffler." The mixing elbow at the exhaust is fine. The only hose and elbow fittings that I not checked go from the engine to the manifold.

Still of concern is my impeller flow with engine on seems weak, but what do I know. Any final thoughts before I turn this over to an expert?

[sabray]

Everyonce and a while we hear about faulty impellers where the bond between the cog and the rubber fails. Hail Mary but might want to check

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Contraman

Still not getting water out exhaust. Biggest problem seems to be a restriction still in the foe of water to the "muffler." The mixing elbow at the exhaust is fine. The only hose and elbow fittings that I not checked go from the engine to the manifold.

Still of concern is my impeller flow with engine on seems weak, but what do I know. Any final thoughts before I turn this over to an expert?

So... by "mixing elbow at the exhaust".... I assume you have removed the small rubber mixing tube and water flows out of that. ? Have you checked all rubber hose etc aft of the exhaust elbow? if it got too hot it could be collapsed inside.
"The only hose and elbow fittings that I not checked go from the engine to the manifold. " There is a hose from the engine to the manifold? isnt the manifold bolted right to the engine?
There is not a great abundance of water normally coming into the system... but hard to explain or analyze from here.... The engine should burp out lumps of water out the back of the boat, not usually a steady stream.

[Contraman]

[QUOTE=Cheechako;1289687]
"The only hose and elbow fittings that I not checked go from the engine to the manifold. " There is a hose from the engine to the manifold? isnt the manifold bolted right to the engine?
QUOTE]

Yes the manifold is bolted on the engine but on the Universal 5411 there b fitting that pops up from both with a 3 or 4 inch hose.

I took a friend out this afternoon who has more experience on boat mechanics than I.

It seems that I have two problems. First,unrelated to my mess up, my
seacock must have some type of obstruction/constriction because it just doesn't release enough water when open wih hoses off. My friend confirmed this. We bypassed it and dropped a line in a buck of water(like when I winterized it)and finally got some water out the exhaust but it was more of a pulsing mist than the what's regular.

The impeller pump is just not acting forceful enough with unrestricted flow from the bucket.
So he's going to replace the pump this week while I'm off on a family reunion in Michigan. It turns out that I have a second Universal 5411 sitting in my shead(long story) that I can use for spare parts. Hopefully that will take care of the water circulation from the bucket.

Now the seacock.... it has a 90 degree angle. I'm reluctant to attempt to remove it while in the water to poke down to dislodge obstructions. Seems difficult to come from below in the water. I'm thinking of running a line from the head seacock to the strainer as my intake for water cooling as a "let's get through the summer and fall"until I get it back on the hard for a permanent fix.

I'm learning a hell of a lot about boat mechanics but I would much rather be sailing.

It will be at least a week befor I post again with an update. Thanks again for the help.

[Acushla]

The cooling water supply to the engine is the primary supply on your boat and should not be be a spur off an existing aux inlet. It should be a stand alone supply to ensure its integrity.

Jim

[ErikFinn]

Not sure if mentioned already, but I had a similar issue after cleaning the sea water strainer. The o-ring between the strainer and the strainer cap had become too hard and after opening the cap the connection wasn't airtight anymore, thus the impeller was only sucking air through the connection and not sea water from the seacock. First aid was to apply grease to make the connection airtight. Worked well and got a nice flow of water from exhaust. Bought a new o-ring when had a chance.
Erik

[rtbates]

After you get it all back to normal, you may want to find out why you did NOT get any alarms going off before the heat damage occurred. I know the few times my impeller went south I got a temp alarm way before I had any heat build up issues. I have a 1GM Yanmar.

good luck