Mercury 2.2 trolling motor problems

[Sempersafloat]

Hi, I too have had several mercury 2.2's,and after my first refused to start just 12 months from new, i like you tried all sorts. In despair I consulted the local mercury guy, who asked me if I'd cleaned the points and how. I said yes and with carborundum paper. He sort of grinned and asked me if I ownw=ed a wood rasp, or very corse file, I had both, and he said to take the file/rasp across the points and leave grooves in them. then set the gap and all should be well. Apparently Mercury point glaze, this glaze is too hard for carborundum or the normal corse papers, and the grooves stop the points glazing again. This was back in 1995, the engine des regular work on our tender all year, and appart from giving it the right fuelmix and the occaisional gearbox oil change I do nothing to it fromone year to the next. Brilliant little motor. And yes you can safely run it without the prop whilst you're trying to fix it as the water pump impellor is behind the prop.
Regards

[Gaia]

Flapper valves might be stuck. Take carb off and spray some wd40 into the opening and with a chop stick or similar wiggle the valves back and forth.

I actually sloshed gasoline in there and out the plug hole when I had it all disassembled. Worked for me.

Good luck

Jim

[snoopeme]

Thanks for the idea Semperafloat! I moved the motor outside and believe it or not after not having done anything on it for about a week....I yanked on the cord and it almost started! Ran for a second or two....but then I couldn't repeat that! LOL I think I need to get into the points and see what I see in there? Any hints or suggestions other than what you mentioned in your post? I'll keep posting until I get this baby running like a Swiss watch! LOL

Snoop
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[Lepke]

" I was in town today and happened to stop by a boat dealer and talked a little to a guy that was behind the counter. ~ But he mentioned something about the reverse/forward lever and I told him my motor didn't have one and that it was to my understanding a trolling motor. He said all motors have a lever to put it into reverse."

Says volumes about dealers and the experts they hire.

[JeffBurright]

Tips for adjusting the points on this motor:

• Remove the ripcord pulley (3 bolts), and underneath is another rounded triangle bowl-shaped bracket with 3 bolts. Remove those bolts and the bracket, and there will be access holes to the electronics inside.
• To simply adjust the points, you don't need to remove the flywheel as I said before. It's a bit like playing the board game Operation, but it's better to save yourself the trouble of taking off the flywheel if you can.
• The points are just two shiny metal pieces that open and close as the flywheel turns. I can't remember if this motor has 1 or 2 sets of points.
• The correct gap between the points when the flywheel is rotated to produce maximum point distance (you'll know what I mean when you get there) is 0.020". This is why you need a feeler gauge.
• Use a philips head screwdriver to adjust the points. The screw pins the point down on a slider track and is meant to be adjustable.
• Check to see if the point contacts look clean while you're there. Also look for any obvious rust in the magnets that ring the flywheel. I've had rust prevent me from getting spark before.
• The procedure will require minimal dismantling and should go pretty quick once you see what's going on in there. Good luck!

[snoopeme]

Thanks on the points tip Jeff....I hope to get some time to look at the motor again this weekend! Your description sounds pretty involved thoigh...I was hoping it would be like an old Ford pickup truck I had and you just had to remove the distributor cap to get at the points! Lol

[snoopeme]

Originally Posted by JeffBurright

Tips for adjusting the points on this motor:

• Remove the ripcord pulley (3 bolts), and underneath is another rounded triangle bowl-shaped bracket with 3 bolts. Remove those bolts and the bracket, and there will be access holes to the electronics inside.
• To simply adjust the points, you don't need to remove the flywheel as I said before. It's a bit like playing the board game Operation, but it's better to save yourself the trouble of taking off the flywheel if you can.
• The points are just two shiny metal pieces that open and close as the flywheel turns. I can't remember if this motor has 1 or 2 sets of points.
• The correct gap between the points when the flywheel is rotated to produce maximum point distance (you'll know what I mean when you get there) is 0.020". This is why you need a feeler gauge.
• Use a philips head screwdriver to adjust the points. The screw pins the point down on a slider track and is meant to be adjustable.
• Check to see if the point contacts look clean while you're there. Also look for any obvious rust in the magnets that ring the flywheel. I've had rust prevent me from getting spark before.
• The procedure will require minimal dismantling and should go pretty quick once you see what's going on in there. Good luck!

Jeff.....I worked on checking the points today and found your comments very helpful indeed....thank you very much. No problems getting in to them and unfortunately I did not have a fine enough gauge to check their gap. I had a gauge that I've used on spark plugs but nothing so fine as what was needed here. I did have the specs on this motor however, and the range for the breaker point gap was .012 - .016.....not the .020 which you thought it was. As I didn't have a gauge the question was moot however, and I could only eyeball it and see that there was a gap being created. Remember, this is a like new motor and I would guess only has less than 10 hours on it, so I did nothing to change the points. I also doubt there was any glaze built up like another posted noted ....again because this is a like new motor. I did take a small screw driver anyway, and kind of rub it back and forth between the points...just for good luck! LOL

Still not starting, but I didn't really do anything today to change it..so I am not surprised.

Nobody answered my question of the fact that I did not have a new carb. gasket and didn't use any kind of gasket sealant when I reassembled it. Do you think this could be my problem. The gasket looked to be a good shape which was why I just left it alone!

Thanks Jeff for sticking with me on this...I haven't given up yet...just haven't had much time lately to mess with it! LOL

Snoop
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..

[JeffBurright]

I never replaced any gaskets on the motor, and I took apart the carb many times to clean it out. I even resurrected my motor from the briny deep a few times and had no trouble. If you're not seeing any fuel leaks around the gasket, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

So by now you've ruled out your electrical system. You might try taking out the spark plug and swabbing out the fire chamber with a twisted up paper towel to see if there's any gunk built up in there. I still think you have a fuel supply issue somewhere between the tank and the fire chamber, so all I can recommend is to go through each piece of the system meticulously and look for anything that might be stopping proper flow.

I can't remember, did you say your spark plug is wet when you pull it out after trying to start it? If I recall correctly, plugs are supposed to be dry, so I wonder if that could have anything to do with it.

Keep us posted!

[Siberianhusky]

I'll bet the jets in the carb are plugged with varnish after sitting.
Since you were getting some pops I doubt it is ignition related.
Carb needs to be taken apart and the jets cleaned with very fine copper wire or replaced. The copper is softer than the jet material so it won't damage it and mess up the spray.
Doesn't take much congealed oil to plug up the tiny opening on a 2.2hp carb.
I used to own an Evinrude 2hp, ran great as long as it was used regularly, and gas was much better back then. After sitting for the winter the carb was usually gooped up even if you drained the float bowl and ran it dry.

[motion30]

ou can see a spark on the spark plug the problem is he's almost certainly the carburetor. it needs to be completely disassembled and have all the passages and jets cleaned with carburetor cleaner and blown out with compressed air. The float level needs to be set and the idle mixture screw will need to be set

[snoopeme]

Originally Posted by Siberianhusky

I'll bet the jets in the carb are plugged with varnish after sitting.
Since you were getting some pops I doubt it is ignition related.
Carb needs to be taken apart and the jets cleaned with very fine copper wire or replaced. The copper is softer than the jet material so it won't damage it and mess up the spray.
Doesn't take much congealed oil to plug up the tiny opening on a 2.2hp carb.
I used to own an Evinrude 2hp, ran great as long as it was used regularly, and gas was much better back then. After sitting for the winter the carb was usually gooped up even if you drained the float bowl and ran it dry.

Siberian....as I have said I took the carb off and soaked it and have been back in there several times already, but am now thinking of doing that again when I get a chance. May soak overnight just to be on the safe side Snoop

[snoopeme]

Originally Posted by motion30

ou can see a spark on the spark plug the problem is he's almost certainly the carburetor. it needs to be completely disassembled and have all the passages and jets cleaned with carburetor cleaner and blown out with compressed air. The float level needs to be set and the idle mixture screw will need to be set

Done all of that...however, what do you suggest on the idle mixture setting to try and get to start....i.e. fully seat and then back out 2 turns? Or 2 1/2 turns or just what? Couldn't find anything in the spec sheet about this?

Thanks,
Snoop

[motion30]

At 2 turns you are probably in range. Will the motor run with the choke out?

[snoopeme]

Originally Posted by motion30

At 2 turns you are probably in range. Will the motor run with the choke out?

So far I have only gotten it a couple of times to pop once or twice and try to start, but nothing beyond that. As I have said, this is a practically unused motor that sat in storage for 20 years or so. Carb. did not look dirty but i soaked it anyway. Spark plug looks new almost, gas tank drained and cleaned, new clear fuel line so I see the carb is getting gas, The rubber housing on the spark plug wire is sort of deteriorated, but the metal inside seems to have a firm grip on the spark plug head. If you read all of the prior posts and suggestions i have tried them all and yet it still is fighting me! Now it is a personal battle between me and it! LOL

Snoop
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[motion30]

I understand how frustrating it can be. if it were me I would either shoot a shot of ether or a couple teaspoons of gasoline down a carburetor throat. If the motor fires your ignition is ok.and if that is the case can you still have an issue with either the fuel delivery system or your carburetor. if it does not fire then your ignition system needs to be addressed.