I was Bored so Pulled the Head on my Yanmar

[charliehows]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

Introducing Bubba, My new socket. If you remove the crankshaft from a Yanmar GM series block, your going to need Bubba. That is a 36 mm really deep 3/4" drive socket.

I think it looks pretty good. Sweet. My very first fabricated tool. Great welder and practically right next door.

nice. Just wanted to point out - if one wants to enjoy the process of working on any mechanical device one has to accept that part of the process is fabricating special tools - its a buddhist sort of thing - if you approach something thinking you'll have a nice straight forward fiddle with your toolbox residents and then get cranky when the inevitable special tool problem arises, you'll probably hate every minute from then on. I allow an open-ended time scale to anything i do these days - makes it much more enjoyable, and very often theres something unforeseen that adds a couple of days to the schedule, much better if one is prepared for it...

[brutb]

SailorChic, check your email for another who wishes to add to your overhaul kitty(ie stress removal account) or pm me with your friends email.
Cheers-and a good stiff brush and lotsa TSP and your engine compartment will be sweet smelling and with a coat of lite gray paint it will be ship shape again..

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by brutb

SailorChic, check your email for another who wishes to add to your overhaul kitty(ie stress removal account) or pm me with your friends email.
Cheers-and a good stiff brush and lotsa TSP and your engine compartment will be sweet smelling and with a coat of lite gray paint it will be ship shape again..

BrutB, Thank you!.

Actually WD40 does wonders for cutting through grease and crud. I did the first pass at cleaning the bilge today. It already looks so much better. Going to do a final bilge cleaning monday and tusday. Actually the blue gray paint that's down looks pretty good. Guess that protective crud coating helped save the paint.

[RaymondR]

Hi again Sailorchic34,

when I read that Sara Palin not only shot the moose, she dressed it, loaded it on the ute (Australian for pickup) and carted it home then knocked up delicious moose stew for 30 people all in about 5 minutes I thought here is my ideal woman. You have replaced her in my esteem.

I would not replace any of the parts which are still within the manufacturers wear range range, as it appears most of yours are.

The proper meaning of the term "overhaul" is that only those parts of a machine which are found to be worn beyond the manufacturers tolerance for wear are replaced. Be mindful that the high risk period for new parts is generally whilst they are being run in and that if they survive this they go on to lead long happy lives. Consequently replacing good, run in parts, is often quiet harmful to the machine as both the new part and that which it works in contact are put through the run in process. In spite of the problems you are having at 1100 hours the engine is just properly run in.

Hand cleaner is often a very good remover of recalcitrant grease, I regularly use it for the cooking range hood as it works better than anything else I have ever tried.

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

In spite of the problems you are having at 1100 hours the engine is just properly run in.

That is what I'm finding too. At 1100 hours it was just getting broken in The pistons and rings in the other two cylinders have no measurable wear. Everything I've measured so far comes up within the new install wear limits.

The big end bearings look find, except where some blonde chic buggered up one removing the piston. Its hard to get good help.

The crank will come out with the intermediate bearings attached. The aft bearing comes out with the aft flange support. I just need to be careful that the front crank bearing is not damaged with the crank removal.

[Geoduck]

I'm confused, why are you pulling the crank shaft? It sounds to me like you have a busted ring. Why not just pull the piston, hone the cylinder, replace the rings and bolt it back together?
Must be something I missed?

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by Geoduck

I'm confused, why are you pulling the crank shaft? It sounds to me like you have a busted ring. Why not just pull the piston, hone the cylinder, replace the rings and bolt it back together?
Must be something I missed?

That was my original idea. But the damage to the cylinder wall is too extensive for honing. I had two "car guys" both with engine rebuilding experience and both said it needed to be bored. Rather then having all three cylinders bored 10 or 20 over (the older car guy said it might need more then 10 over) I'm having a sleeve machined into #3 hole. Then just light honing on #1 and #2.

As luck would have it, the block goes to the machinist today. I was able to remove the last "second" crank nut after I had the special socket made. Then it was easy removing the aft carrier flange and pull the crank and intermediate bearings out the back. Plus removed the oil pump.

So its down to a bare block. Now just have to order the parts to make it new again. Going together will be slower still as everything has to be measured or torqued.

I'm guessing most folks just buy a new engine as the amount of labor required, even if they are twice as fast as me, would be a lot. The yanmar mechanic in sausalito could not remember the last time he had to pull a crank. He said that would be a very expensive job. Lucky for me I work cheap.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Geoduck

I'm confused, why are you pulling the crank shaft? It sounds to me like you have a busted ring. Why not just pull the piston, hone the cylinder, replace the rings and bolt it back together?
Must be something I missed?

I wondered that but then realized it has to be bored to sleeve it.... hope they find that lightweight bliok doesnt have enough meat when they start boring. Sorry... shouldnt have brought that up....
Why just not use cyl 3? then you'll have a 2GM... :>)

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

I wondered that but then realized it has to be bored to sleeve it.... hope they find that lightweight bliok doesnt have enough meat when they start boring. Sorry... shouldnt have brought that up....
Why just not use cyl 3? then you'll have a 2GM... :>)

I'm a little concerned about the sleeve, but the machinist did look at the block first.

I also have given some thought to using the 3gm with one piston removed as a 2GM. But while #1 and #3 are at roughly 180 degrees, #2 was at 90 degrees and I think could have had too much vibration. Plus I would have been over proped then too. That still remains my fall back actually.

[Cheechako]

I've heard of it being done before.... well... we'real waiting with baited breath.... hope it turns out well.... You're amazing....

[sailorchic34]

Well the block has been dropped off to the machinist. It should be ready by the end of the week.

Tomorrow will be clean the bilge day again. I had given it a first pass last Friday, but its not quite clean enough. So hopefully I'll get that done tomorrow. Plus soak, degrease and clean all the bolts and bits tomorrow.

[JayCall]

Sailorchic-I have been following your latest adventure, and to echo many here-you are remarkable.

Plus, I think it safe to say that, when finished, you will have the only purple Yanmar in existence!

Good Luck with the reassembly.

[RaymondR]

You are doing great, just keep at it and if it starts to get on top of you don't force the pace, take a break and then go back at it. When it's back in the boat and successfully test run you will feel well earned satisfaction for your achievement in salvaging the engine.

[Teknav]

...once the project is successfully completed, she can charge for her services in rebuilding diesel engines...Many a time a hobby turns into a pro, with good earnings... Good luck!

Mauritz

[fryewe]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

You are doing great, just keep at it and if it starts to get on top of you don't force the pace, take a break and then go back at it. When it's back in the boat and successfully test run you will feel well earned satisfaction for your achievement in salvaging the engine.

I have always put them on a temp bed on the pier or in the shop with temp fuel and cooling water piped up and done a test run before putting it back in the hole. If it runs well on the pier it will run well on the boat.