Farymann Help(if needed)

[Steffo60]

I got hold of the impeller and had to make my own o-ring to cover the pump. But the stuffing box inside the impeller is leaking. So water gets into the engine. So I have searched everywhere but not found it. It is made of rubber and the size is 12x27x5 I put pictures on it. Is it possible to get one?

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Steffo60

I got hold of the impeller and had to make my own o-ring to cover the pump. But the stuffing box inside the impeller is leaking. So water gets into the engine. So I have searched everywhere but not found it. It is made of rubber and the size is 12x27x5 I put pictures on it. Is it possible to get one?
Attachment 245923

Attachment 245924

dont know where in the world you are but a bearing supply place should be able to find one. failing that try a place that rebuilds pumps or sells mechanical seals.
good luck

[Wotname]

I agree with Compass790. I did a quick google search for 'lip seal' and 'oil seal' etc.

While I couldn't quickly find a 12x27x5, I did find 12x27x7 so if the extra 2mm thickness can be accommodated, they should be easy to source.

However a bearing and seal supply shop will probably find the exact one for you.

[Adelie]

Originally Posted by October

Hello All- I have a Contessa 26 with a Farymann 18w- I need the head for that motor.

If anyone can suggest where I might find this Unicorn it would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

https://farymann.com/engines.php?page=18wMarine

[RaymondR]

Years ago I put a Faryman in a machine I built because it had a very good match to the power input characteristics required for the hydraulic pump I designed into the machine. I was familiar with the brand because I'd seen them in a number of boats but was surprised to find when I went to buy parts that the biggest uses of the engines were actually folks who needed them to drive hydraulics for cement trucks and bitumen laying machines etc.

[Steffo60]

It is not possible to buy this part. So had to buy a new water pump

[October]

Thanks to all for your information and help- it's much appreciated!
As an update, I took the head to a diesel head/cylinder shop. The long time owner said that if there is enough metal to work with he will be able to insert a plug, hone it to match the head surface, and then pressure test the head. I should know in a few days if his repair was successful.
On another note, I have not yet found any reference to a sacrificial anode in the Farymann 18W raw water cooling system. I did note quite a bit of corrosion though, so I suspect that an anode is not there. I will try to find the original owners manual for that motor and see if there is any reference to an anode in the cooling circuit.
Cheers!

[admiral 31]

Is this of any help?


https://www.dedieseldokter.nl/c-4787...nn-onderdelen/

[October]

Thanks- maybe, if I can find the "English" version button on that website- my German is sadly lacking!

[admiral 31]

Actually it is in Dutch


https://translate.google.com/


this usually works for me.

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by October

Thanks to all for your information and help- it's much appreciated!
As an update, I took the head to a diesel head/cylinder shop. The long time owner said that if there is enough metal to work with he will be able to insert a plug, hone it to match the head surface, and then pressure test the head. I should know in a few days if his repair was successful.
On another note, I have not yet found any reference to a sacrificial anode in the Farymann 18W raw water cooling system. I did note quite a bit of corrosion though, so I suspect that an anode is not there. I will try to find the original owners manual for that motor and see if there is any reference to an anode in the cooling circuit.
Cheers!

good luck with the head repair. Let us know if it passes.
If you have an all copper head gasket & cant get another you can try just annealing it but I'd use gasket cement as well.
If you cant get another head I would try what this bloke did. ( see link) You would have to think about how to do it & you would have to have more epoxy on the inside of the head so it cannot blow it through. You couldnt rely on adhesion it would have to be a taper if you see what I'm getting at.
It wont work on the valve seat as it would burn away but outside of that worth a shot I reckon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVLoJe3JbFI

.
Of course thats on a petrol engine with much lower compression but the tensile strength of the cured material is plenty & if it can survive the temps on an air-cooled engine should be fine on a water cooled one.
I like to experiment but YMMV

[admiral 31]

You can download the workshop manual for the 15W/18W from here



https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10...iesel-15w.html

[admiral 31]

Also the operators manual



https://www.manualslib.com/manual/82...5w-Series.html

[Steffo60]

I bought a new water pump

[Saunter]

Greetings!
I have a Farymann R30 V-twin in my Cascade 36. It has been very reliable in the 15 years that I've owned the boat, and only has 1900 hours since new, 52 years ago! Two years ago, the rubber water intake manifold finally rotted out, and with no parts available, I managed to fabricate a new one from various sizes of hose and multiple hose clamps. Then the starboard cylinder cooling jacket plugged up. I pulled the head off and removed most of the sediment with screwdrivers and coat hangar wires. Then I reinstalled the head and back-flushed that side with muriatic acid for 15 minutes. The engine cools very well now. Now I have a new problem: The injection pump has a cold-start button that one pushes into a detent, which makes starting almost instantaneous. The detent has stopped catching the button, and now I have to crank for several seconds before the normal fuel schedule starts the engine. I'm afraid to remove or disassemble the injection pump without help or advice. Any experts or advice?