Farymann Help(if needed)

[pwilletts]

I have gained a great deal of experience with the Farymann K34/15w engines( by necessity) and am willing to help others who have questions about these engines.....FYI despite opinions that the parts are not available I have been able to source many of them....these are simple and dependable engines....with a little love

[bouton]

Originally Posted by pwilletts

I have gained a great deal of experience with the Farymann K34/15w engines( by necessity) and am willing to help others who have questions about these engines.....FYI despite opinions that the parts are not available I have been able to source many of them....these are simple and dependable engines....with a little love

Pete is really Farymann expert.I have learned a lof of my Farymann engine K34 from him!

[SailGuy40]

I have an A40 single cylinder model, the water jacket is leaking at the gasket at the block. Besides that she runs fine. I'm looking for spare parts now as I go to take it apart and fix the leak. I believe the cylinder, jacket and cylinder head assembly are the same across several models. I'm wondering which models have the matching cylinder assemblies to mine??

[pwilletts]

I don't know anything about that engine.....however jacket leaks are generally easy to fix ....unless the metal groove which holds the O ring seal is corroded away...but do require some disassembly of the engine.Is this a raw water system? How is this progressing? My best source of parts is Mastry in florida or Farymann USA.....which is much more $$ but can tell you about compatibility...

[bouton]

I have a single-cylinder diesel engine Farymann K34 of 6HP. After half an hour at a load and at 2500 rpm, a low pressure oil lamp flashes. After an additional half an hour, a low pressure oil lamp was constantly on. If I wait a little bit to cool down and dirve with 1500 rpm sometimes I don’t get lamp on.
The cylinder temperature measured with the IR gun is about 60-70 degrees Celsius, and the oil tank - bottom part of the engine around 70-80 degrees Celsius.
Is this a problem with weak engine cooling or is it a problem with an oil pump or something else?
Do you have any experience with this kind of failure?

Thanks for the advice!

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by bouton

I have a single-cylinder diesel engine Farymann K34 of 6HP. After half an hour at a load and at 2500 rpm, a low pressure oil lamp flashes. After an additional half an hour, a low pressure oil lamp was constantly on. If I wait a little bit to cool down and dirve with 1500 rpm sometimes I don’t get lamp on.
The cylinder temperature measured with the IR gun is about 60-70 degrees Celsius, and the oil tank - bottom part of the engine around 70-80 degrees Celsius.
Is this a problem with weak engine cooling or is it a problem with an oil pump or something else?
Do you have any experience with this kind of failure?

Thanks for the advice!

I have had this failure with a fairly old single cylinder Buhk. It was due to low oil pressure which was a result of very worn bearings allowing the oil pressure to drop.

Engine oil takes a long time to come up to full heat - at least 30 to 40 minutes and often more even when under full load. As the oil comes up to full temperature, it's viscosity drops off (becomes thinner) and oil pressure drops.

You can mask the problem for awhile by using a thicker oil or running the engine at a lower temperature by reducing the load (i.e. RPM).

The real fix is to overhaul the engine - or replace it .

[GordMay]

Faryman Diesel Engine Repair Manuals https://www.marinedieselbasics.com/f...ngine-manuals/

15/18 /32W ➥ https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10...iesel-15w.html
➥ https://www.maritimepropulsion.com/files/pdf/1001278

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by pwilletts

I have gained a great deal of experience with the Farymann K34/15w engines( by necessity) and am willing to help others who have questions about these engines.....FYI despite opinions that the parts are not available I have been able to source many of them....these are simple and dependable engines....with a little love

Would you happen to know where there are any valves for the W15/18 models? We need the exhaust valve.

Thanx

[pwilletts]

You should be able to get them from Mastry marine in Tampa Fl

[pwilletts]

BOUTON.....
The situation you describe is very common in these old engines. As said its bearing or pump wear. I know of a case where replacing the pump fixed the problem( 23 psi is normal output)..That however requires removing the front of the engine and disturbing the timing and other delicate things. Here is the good news....

my engine settled down at 8-10 psi at speed which is low of course. ( min idle should be about 11psi) However I operated it for hours at this level with no overheating.( 30 wt oil BTW) It did not seem to mind..just my opinion..but I stopped worrying about it...
This engine is rated to operate w/o the thermostat. I did this to get max cooling flow into the cylinder head...the procedure is simple...remove the T that diverts water before going into the cylinder and block off the bypass line to the muffler....I also installed a 5 psi pressure switch to let me know if it ever got to that lever which I consider the minimum ….I know this is not an ideal solution but I never had a problem operating like this..these are very sturdy engines....BTW I feel the front crankshaft bearing is the problem here ..it too is available but once gain is a big job that I was not willing to tackle.
Never over fill the oil!!

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by pwilletts

You should be able to get them from Mastry marine in Tampa Fl

Thanks for the thought. No luck there however.

[pwilletts]

Try Farymann Usa. The dealer. There Is also a dealer in England. Google it.

[bouton]

Hello Peter!

Thanks for your advice! Can you tell me at which rpm are you running your K34 engine? At normal speed of boat? Can you put a link for 5psi sensor?
Did you measured any time temperature of cylinder or other parts of engine - just for comapring with my engine? Thanks!

Originally Posted by pwilletts

BOUTON.....
The situation you describe is very common in these old engines. As said its bearing or pump wear. I know of a case where replacing the pump fixed the problem( 23 psi is normal output)..That however requires removing the front of the engine and disturbing the timing and other delicate things. Here is the good news....

my engine settled down at 8-10 psi at speed which is low of course. ( min idle should be about 11psi) However I operated it for hours at this level with no overheating.( 30 wt oil BTW) It did not seem to mind..just my opinion..but I stopped worrying about it...
This engine is rated to operate w/o the thermostat. I did this to get max cooling flow into the cylinder head...the procedure is simple...remove the T that diverts water before going into the cylinder and block off the bypass line to the muffler....I also installed a 5 psi pressure switch to let me know if it ever got to that lever which I consider the minimum ….I know this is not an ideal solution but I never had a problem operating like this..these are very sturdy engines....BTW I feel the front crankshaft bearing is the problem here ..it too is available but once gain is a big job that I was not willing to tackle.
Never over fill the oil!!

[Faryparts]

Originally Posted by svHyLyte

Would you happen to know where there are any valves for the W15/18 models? We need the exhaust valve.

Thanx

Hello,I'm planning to manufacture couple sets of valves but they are expensive.. I have spoken with Agp power witch owns Farymann now that they are restructuring business and they will start manufacturing engines and parts but they didn't give any timetable . Could be several months.

[bouton]

Originally Posted by Faryparts

Hello,I'm planning to manufacture couple sets of valves but they are expensive.. I have spoken with Agp power witch owns Farymann now that they are restructuring business and they will start manufacturing engines and parts but they didn't give any timetable . Could be several months.

Do you have any info about cylinders for K34 - for raw water cooled engines? Are they planning to make cylinders too?