Engine And Machine Parts World Wide

[jimbunyard]

Dave,

Agreed - that's where knowledge and experience come into play. In the gas engines referenced, the carb and head and manifold gaskets are definitely marine spec, and also the cam in most instances (different torque curve). But Volvo didn't make any of those either...

And it should be re-stressed, even within the same models, changes are made, so make sure what you get, wherever you get it, is correct for the application.

[Cheechako]

When it cones to parts, supposedly the price difference between auto and marine is that the auto parts are made in much larger quantities. So the tooling and R&D etc is amortized over a larger number. I've not been sure I believe that... but that could be the reason a Mercedes 240D Diesel fresh water pump is so cheap... there are millions of 240D's out there and a lot of taxis etc.
I find it hard to believe tooling is that significant in either numbers though. Let's say you spend $100k on tooling to produce a water pump.. and sell only 500k pumps. That's only 20 cents a pump..... Ok so you say $100k on tooling is low? Make it 10 times that... then it s $2 a pump....

[Kerryo]

I am in need of the base for the oil cooler for my Cast 3208TA. Any suggestions? The cat number is 1n3130... pretty pricey from cat

[h the boat]

Hi Kerryo,
You dont say what part of the world you are in, I have just looked up oil coolers( your number), on Ebay, there is offers for complete coolers for Circa $150, and stainless internal section for Circa $100. It dosent say if reconditioned or original new. This is not in my opinion an excessive price.
you dont say what the problem is with your present unit, it may be repairable.
If you are looking for something less cost, you will need to visit Heavy Truck breakers yards and repairers. This engine has been going for a good number of years, and many different applications. There are very many of them, damaged or worn out available for spare parts. An oil cooler of this type is not normally subject to wear or damage, unless for some reason, sea water has been diverted through it.... In which case the stainless internal cooling plates are replaceable as a unit._ h the boat.

[Kerryo]

Thank you.... It is actually the base that mounts the oil cooler to the block. There is a crack in the cast that I don't think is weldable..... I think the oil cooler is fine.

CAT new part is about $750..

[Arthur Garfield]

Auto/Truck wreckers/ing are best source for Interchangeability !
There are actual catalogs for referencing crossover parts from various everything ! Most will know which parts are the Best made also.



All the Best

[h the boat]

Hi Kerryo,
I is unusual to find a cracked base to a Cat Oil cooler. Have you removed the entire unit from the main part of the block, and dismanteled it. It is not unusual to find an oil leak, at the joint. Mainly from the use of a wrong type of gasket material, and on some versions a large O Ring, fitted instead of a gasket.
If indeed the base is cracked, then unless you have machining facilities to re finish the surfaces, you will not be able to repair satisfactorily. The probable cost to have the work done commercially, is likely to be more than a replacement from Ebay or similar source... Before fitting a replacement unit, check that he mating surfaces are absolutely clean and are flat. If they are not, it will leak, regardless of how much or what sealant you use because the oil is under pressure._ h the boat.

[Kerryo]

The leak is definitively not from the seal. It is cracked where a pipe plug is located and probably caused by over tightening.

Do you know of any reason the mating surface on the block would not be flat... this engine has never overheated.

I attached a picture of the crack....

[Sandero]

Recently the 30 year old fresh water circulating pump on my Volvo MD17D had the pulluy work loose. I don't know if the lip seal was goo... but it probably went south at the same time.

Volvo no longer produces these pumps. I found the last "rebuilt" one in the US as French Creek Marine... but leaked. I found a shop to rebuild it and balance the pulley for $150... less than a 1/3 the cost of the leaky re built pump!

I am not having the old one rebuilt as a spare or may sell it as these seem to be in need out there.

The real issue is why can't a pulley driven pump be mounted on a basic steel bracket drilled to the existing hole spacing on the block... from another maker be used? I suppose the issue may be how much water does it move - rate of flow per RPM. But this can't be THAT critical that a similar sized pulley driven pump from another manufacturer can't be adapted for this engine.

I have no done a search for pulley driven circulating pumps... but it seems they must be out there. No?

[h the boat]

Hi again Kerryo,

Now that you have shown a photo it is obvious the original cause of the problem.... The socket for the plug shown, is a parallel thread... designed to take a pipe fitting, which would also be parallel. At some time, a standard plumbers tapered thread plug has been fitted, this will strain both the thread and the casing.
If you are lucky, the short tapered plug, will have only damaged the outer part of the base plate... Remove the tapered plug and discard. Examine the internal depth of the threaded section. clean very thoroughly with a solvent (clean diesel or similar) if the crack does not show all the way through, purchase a parallel Brass or preferably Bronze plug that is at least the depth of the threaded portion, and fit with PTFE TAPE. not over tight, but very firm.
This should cure the problem.
If the crack is all the way through, You will have to dismantle the base plate completely, clean throughly with a spirit solvent, and try and find some one to Braze or silver solder the crack and re cut the thread.
There is no other positive way. You can not weld the cast steel of the base plate. Unless you are extremely lucky to have one of the rare Aluminium units, which can be welded with TIG.
The thread is a Standard Pipe Thread, if you have difficulty obtaining a suitable plug, you can use a common male to female pipe reducer with plug.
Beware Hydraulic fittings, they can be BSPT but are more commonly a different and finer thread. Let us know the result. h the boat

[h the boat]

Hi Sandero,

The Volvo MD17 series was originally designed by Bukh. It was a sea water cooled unit with only one pump, mounted at the gearbox end of the block. After Volvo's acquisition, most of the units were produced or converted to fresh water cooling, with a second pump to deal with the fresh water, typically a Johnson or Jabsco type, originally belt driven from the flywheel end. The original sea water pump being used as a circulating pump. Some versions have this pump moved and belt driven, others have the new type Johnson/Jabsco pump mechanically driven from the camshaft drive.

Regardless of the Volvo reluctance to produce official replacements and repair kits, they are available from many sources at low acceptable prices...always check the internet.

It sound like your particular version ( which apparently has little to do with age), is using one of the original type pumps. The bearings and seals are all standard off the shelf parts and can be purchased almost anywhere. I believe that the complete pump with pulley was originally produced by Yanmar for Bukh.

On your second point, there is no real reason not to use a pump of different make to circulate the coolant. The problems to bear in mind is that the velocity of the cooling water is important, and that the coolant may be hot for the impeller and seals. If the velocity is high, there is some small risk of eventual erosion and or corrosion of the internal water passages, and risk of rubber pipes failing because of excess internal pressure. h the boat..