Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[rossad]

Stuggling to get pics up

[Boatguy30]

Craig

Just have a look at John Blewetts pics to get an idea of what you might be in for.

[happyendings]

I have lurked on this thread for some time but have just placed a deposit on a ketch-rigged Cross 38 in Maine launched in 2001. This boat was surveyed last month by Marples and received very good marks for her construction and overall condition but she does need a paint job. I will review all the posts here on that subject and proceed thereafter. I haven't decided at this point whether to do it myself or have it done professionally. I am working as an engineer aboard a government vessel in Virginia and a lot depends upon the job schedule. The boat comes with plenty of the one-part paint she was originally painted with so I may slap dash the peeling paint until I get back down to Florida. I have never owned a cold molded epoxy boat before so I will be doing plenty of studying in the coming weeks. I am tapping this out at the Portland airport and will post more about the boat in the next few weeks. I note that the title says ESPECIALLY Searunner and not EXCLUSIVELY Searunner and hope this won't be a problem. I can find no other forum or resource that covers plywood/epoxy trimaran ownership as thoroughly as this one.
-Mark Zalenski

[Roy M]

Welcome aboard, Mark. Save your money, don't use anything but linear polyurethane 2-part paint, and use whatever energy and time you have doing sanding and epoxy/fiberglass repairs (and more sanding). Having a steady job is a great way to hire someone who knows the tricks of 2-part paint. You will be a happier human being, despite being a little lighter in the pocket. Later, you can learn how to apply it, when it comes time to make the inevitable repairs that a well-sailed boat will acquire. And, congratulations. Norm Cross designed some great boats. We spent many weekends rafted together in Glorietta Bay near the Del Coronado Hotel in San Diego. What kind of keel does your boat have? It's new enough to have the fin keel with "area rule" hull, which is reminiscent of a Coke bottle. Norm started using that design since he was an engineer working in jet aircraft construction. It's how the fuselage "dimples" in where the base of the wing attaches. The laminar flow accellerates, making the boat or plane) go faster. His boats certainly did.

[Cavalier MK2]

I'd tell you to use latex but think you would be happier with a more yacht looking finish. Well done though, it out sticks the one parts. The chore with LP is all the old paint has to come off, the epoxy coating will the need some attention then the prime and paint. I think you'd be looking at a 20,000-30,000 yard bill. (Doesn't the latex look more yachty already?) If you resell this might add 10,000 to the sell price.

The Cross 38 is a great boat, doesn't have the area rule hull used on some of the racers. Double diagonal hulls like the Cross, Horstman and Nicol tend to be more rot resistant as the many glue lines form a barrier to rot progression. Sheet ply tends to allow panel rot migrations though both are fine if cared for. The keel isn't much deeper than a Searunner mini keel and has far less maintenance while the main cabin layout allows for easier air circulation. Don't pinch the boat when sailing, keep her moving well to get the most out of the LAR keel and enjoy the nice ride.

[slowbat]

Hello,

I'm getting ready to cut and drill the cabin to reinstall the windows. Someone posted a long time ago about over-sizing holes, then filling with epoxy, and re drilling to prevent rot. I'm the second person who has replaced the cabin sides in the life of the Searunner, and would like to be the last.

Can anyone make a recommendation? Should I just slather the area in LP paint, re-fill a over sized hole with micro-balloons, or other method?

Thanks and best!

[Boatguy30]

Cav
there you go again with the paint! In all seriousness, I was going to suggest he give it a power wash to knock off any loose paint that's peeling and roll on a coat of latex to hold him over. Might like it. I think the idea of striping one part off a boat that size is not a road I'd want to take unless it was an extremely good boat otherwise.

[Cavalier MK2]

Originally Posted by Boatguy30

Cav
there you go again with the paint! In all seriousness, I was going to suggest he give it a power wash to knock off any loose paint that's peeling and roll on a coat of latex to hold him over. Might like it. I think the idea of striping one part off a boat that size is not a road I'd want to take unless it was an extremely good boat otherwise.

I seem to recall this boat was sold by the builder after health problems came up. It was advertised for quite a while in Multihulls MagI think he put the paint on quickly after being unable to find a buyer with the boat unlaunched. It did look well built. I think LP is better considered for new builds as the redo is so hard on a different finish.

Slowbat, why use bolts at all? Get a copy of Sail Magazine from a month or 2 back and read the article on 3m tape and commercial adhesive plastic window install. I've got a post on the building forum of BoatDesign from a while back that covers the same thing along with the pattern method for new construction I came up with along with easy installation jigs. This is what the pros and builders are doing now and it is easier with less to go wrong.

[happyendings]

Boatguy, it is an extremely good boat otherwise. I have been told that water-based automotive finishes with clearcoat have now been proven over time to hold up by a multihull boat yard. I would think a well painted boat would be worth more than $10k over one with peeling paint if both boats were otherwise well-founded. Here she is now:


Attachment 61792

[Cavalier MK2]

That may not be the boat I was thinking of. I'd have to look up the old ad. Hey, ultimately the best finish is the one that makes you happiest!

[happyendings]

Thanks everyone. I will be reading this very long thread over the next few days and highlighting relevant posts. I would like to end up with a good cruising boat with a finish to match. I passed over several speedsters and settled on the Cross because the paint was the only real problem. The owner/builder fileted all the frames, going for strength and durability over light weight. I should have her the way I want her for 1/3 the cost of my old boat, maybe less. And that will make me happy.
-Z

[Sea Otter Jim]

Hi I just redid my windows in my 37 with 3m VHB tape 4991 Its the way to go, no nuts and bolts.I hated that sherman tank look.It makes a very clean and sexy look.google how to install boat windows with 3m vhb tape and look at costal passage.He has all the pics and details.
Jim

[slowbat]

Originally Posted by Sea Otter Jim

Hi I just redid my windows in my 37 with 3m VHB tape 4991 Its the way to go, no nuts and bolts.I hated that sherman tank look.It makes a very clean and sexy look.google how to install boat windows with 3m vhb tape and look at costal passage.He has all the pics and details.
Jim

Nice tip, how is it holding up? I have pre-made opening hatch type windows with screens that sandwich with a inner and outer with small screws. I like that they are small and open. I had the outer frames laser cut out of stainless, as the PVC ones did not clean up so good form multiple caulk jobs. Can you post some photos of our windows?

P.S. All...... Should someone start a different thread called paint? LP vs Latex? in general it might me a good place for anyone with a plywood boat to pipe in the debate......Just asking

Also thanks to all that post to this, it is super helpful

[md7a]

Originally Posted by Sea Otter Jim

Hi I just redid my windows in my 37 with 3m VHB tape 4991 Its the way to go, no nuts and bolts.I hated that sherman tank look.It makes a very clean and sexy look.google how to install boat windows with 3m vhb tape and look at costal passage.He has all the pics and details.
Jim

I am also doing the no-bolt approach on my 31. The first two have gone surprisingly well, despite somewhat modest overlap. I support cavalier's advice to follow the posted projects. I sail mostly in protected waters and I can see no good reason for bolts given the promising properties of the latest goo.

[Cavalier MK2]

It works well with either acrylic or polycarbonate. If you paint the overlap for a rim look make sure to use high temp exhaust paint to handle the thermal plastic expansion. The Dow Corning adhesive/caulking can handle huge amounts of expansion when used with the tape.

Those stainless rims sure sound heavy.....time to epoxy and redrill all those holes....