Originally Posted by albergsailor
exactly what im saying, its not like all the power of the starter is running thru the wire, just the current that kicks the solenoid. Before i posted this I googled myself to see exactly what the point was and yes ur right its so that u can make a long wire run to the ignition using smaller wires. I have a volvo penta
2002. And let me tell you how good it felt today to CUT all the nonsense wires that went to the guages that didnt even work anyway. I then figured out how to jump the alternator, positive to positive, then run the negative straight to ground, in order to get my batteries to charge as i was having an issue. I am putting a toggle switch on the alternator as i assume it wouldnt be good to have it in the charge position all the time correct? since origionally the key wudda shut off this connection. This boat is a TON safer now. I despise complicated connections that corporations employ for ease and cheapness of installation
, especially on boats
- You cut all/most wires going to the control panel
- You wired the alternator output directly to the battery
- You figured out a way to wire a ground for the alternator drectly to a battery
- You wired a switch directly into the starter solenoid circuit
- You are looking for ways to "simplify" the electrics.
There are a ton of considerations - guages, alarms, warning lights etc. but here are a couple of tips.
- Use marine
grade everything with correct wiring
- Get a book on marine
electrics or DC electrics
- Good luck
a couple of on-topic tips
an appropriately sized momentary switch with an appropriately fused circuit to activate the starter solenoid should work - I remember driving a couple of cars that had a foot press starter button and foot press headlight dimmers.
- In regards to the alternator. This is 99.9% sure to be an internally regulated alternator. The output, as you have figured out charges the battery. The field is a "sense" of the system voltage and also excites the field winding to "regulate" the voltage level and provide a current output. You don't need to switch the alternator.
In fact if you switch the "field" - The alternator will sense zero battery voltage and run the output up until the diodes fail.
If you switch the output I don't think anything bad happens but nothing good happens. The field will still sense whatever voltage is on the system and try to regulate an appropriate output unless the filed is also switched then you blow out the alternator again.
If you are using a single
circuit master switch (please tell us you are using a master switch) - on most boats the output of the alternator is connected on the output side of the switch - i.e. the alternator supply is switched with the master.
The field is connected in an appropriate place to sense buss voltage or more appropriately battery voltage. A positive supply buss near the battery is a good recommendation.
(Oh - the final thing the alternator does is provide a signal for the tachometer so I presume your tach is either not working or you don't need it to work.
One thing you don't want to be doing as you rewire things on your boat is to just keep adding circuits to the battery post. This is s really bad idea for a lot of reasons.