Deciding which Autopilot I should get - Need advice

[evm1024]

I hear what you are saying.

As noted I have the same setup (Navico ram).

I found a replacement octopus (navico) pump for $200 new in the box. This took the place of the (perhaps) rebuildable pump.

(looks like prices have gone up) https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...uto+pilot+pump

I also, found a Raymarine SPX-30 for about $500. I think that was NOS (new old stock). The local marine electronics place did a firmware upgrade for free.

I see a new spx-40 (which you do not want!) on ebay for $500 right now... Deals come up.

Pretty much any of the H-bridge type 12 volt AP heads with 10 amp or more output can drive the Octopus pumps.

My backup AP is a Ray SPX5 wheel pilot. Just need to manually activate the solenoid. It has enough output current.

Of course I have Raymarine on my boat but others would work fine. You would need a display too, so toss in another $200.

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by evm1024

I hear what you are saying.

As noted I have the same setup (Navico ram).

I found a replacement octopus (navico) pump for $200 new in the box. This took the place of the (perhaps) rebuildable pump.

(looks like prices have gone up) https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...uto+pilot+pump

I also, found a Raymarine SPX-30 for about $500. I think that was NOS (new old stock). The local marine electronics place did a firmware upgrade for free.

I see a new spx-40 (which you do not want!) on ebay for $500 right now... Deals come up.

Pretty much any of the H-bridge type 12 volt AP heads with 10 amp or more output can drive the Octopus pumps.

My backup AP is a Ray SPX5 wheel pilot. Just need to manually activate the solenoid. It has enough output current.

Of course I have Raymarine on my boat but others would work fine. You would need a display too, so toss in another $200.

So looking further at mine, I dont know if it actually is a hydraulic design? heres a couple pictures i snapped last night of the unit. I dont actually see any hydraulic lines externally(like the new octopus ones). Maybe its a different design that I'm not aware of.

I'll have to look for other AP heads that run with h-bridge (type 2 drives i assume?) and monitor the market for a little bit to see what kind of deals show up.

Thanks for all the help

[evm1024]

I see what you mean (hoses etc)

Do you have the model number? I cannot quite make it out from the second photo.

Even if it is a mechanical drive the h-bridge stuff would be the same.

I can drive the ram motor or a wheel drive from my spx30 or spx5.

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by evm1024

I see what you mean (hoses etc)

Do you have the model number? I cannot quite make it out from the second photo.

Even if it is a mechanical drive the h-bridge stuff would be the same.

I can drive the ram motor or a wheel drive from my spx30 or spx5.

From what i can tell on the motor label has "Model: LA2:12V. Theres a label on a wire as well leading to the smaller upper rod(rudder indicator?) but am unsure if it states a different model. Will take a look later tonight.

Eitherway I'm on the hunt now for alternatives as you've given me quite a bit more knowledge for searchings

[evm1024]

Wow, that drive is hard to source. Most of the mechanical linear actuators have the motor mounted on the side. There are a few sealed hydraulic units that have the drive mounted like yours is.

Perhaps a close listed to it working and you might get a feel for mechanical or hydraulic.

Both the mechanical and hydraulic actuators can be very robust.

[GILow]

Originally Posted by chowdan

. I need a small child to climb into the lazarette to remove it for testing.
!

That could take a few years, plus you’ll probably need a consenting adult to cooperate with you for a while to get things started.

I find small children are not much use for manual work until they are at least six or seven.

[arisatx]

Originally Posted by CarlF

I have the old Simrad AP42 computer and AC24 control before Navico bought Simrad and pimped them out. This design has its roots in Norwegian North Sea commercial fishing. Your boat could almost get away with the smaller AC12 computer (good up to 40ft) but autopilots aren't a great place to shave corners.

These units are very reliable, work with just about any ram or drive system, and steer my sailboat better and smarter than any autopilot I've ever had. Uncanny how little rudder motion it uses even in a big quartering sea. No fancy colored screens or gee whiz graphics. Interfaces fine to NMEA 2000 to talk to chartplotters. The rest of my electronics are Garmin.

Still available both on Ebay and at a few vendors - usually used but I don't see that as a negative for the computer and control head. Getting quite cheap now.

I think you mean an AP24 Control Head and AC42 Computer. I have the same setup with and AP28 also. Works great, but parts are getting hard to find. I considered the current AP44 Control Head as an "upgrade", yes it has a nice color screen but the functionality is less than the now discontinued AP28.

[merrimac]

Originally Posted by arisatx

I think you mean an AP24 Control Head and AC42 Computer. I have the same setup with and AP28 also. Works great, but parts are getting hard to find. I considered the current AP44 Control Head as an "upgrade", yes it has a nice color screen but the functionality is less than the now discontinued AP28.

The AP24 and AP28 were good, but they have a rubbery connector between the PCB and LCD that at some point just craps out. On my AP24 the buttons started getting harder and harder to engage as well. I now have AP48 control heads, and although it is harder to tack (3 button presses instead of 1) I do like the easier-to-read screen.

Triton 1 + pilot controller or Triton 2 + pilot controller will also work with the AC42/AC12. The OP should be able to get good deals on a Triton 1 + pilot controller.


The AC12 and AC42 were indeed excellent, and are the last "repairable" autopilot computers. Beautifully made and very nice steering.

[Mauruuru]

I have a Raymarine wheel pilot on my boat. The course computer is not rated to drive a linear actuator so I built an Hbridge driver to interface between the computer outputs and the linear actuator. This unloads the drive current from the course computer and the Hbridge is capable of 30A continuos-more than enough. Tested and works. Now just have to mount the actuator below decks which is the hard part I haven’t done yet. Plan to keep the wheel pilot to so Ill switch computer output between two pilots. The wheel pilot is fine for coastal sailing but big waves overpower it thus the hydraulic actuator for off shore

[nhschneider]

Originally Posted by CarlF

I have the old Simrad AP42 computer and AC24 control before Navico bought Simrad and pimped them out. This design has its roots in Norwegian North Sea commercial fishing. Your boat could almost get away with the smaller AC12 computer (good up to 40ft) but autopilots aren't a great place to shave corners.

These units are very reliable, work with just about any ram or drive system, and steer my sailboat better and smarter than any autopilot I've ever had. Uncanny how little rudder motion it uses even in a big quartering sea. No fancy colored screens or gee whiz graphics. Interfaces fine to NMEA 2000 to talk to chartplotters. The rest of my electronics are Garmin.

Still available both on Ebay and at a few vendors - usually used but I don't see that as a negative for the computer and control head. Getting quite cheap now.

I have the exact same system as CarlF and have had similar results. We recently completed an eight-and-a-half year circumnavigation and our Simrad autopilot steered 99% of the time. It drew very little power as it could steer a straight course with very little wheel movement - far better than I could. In 49,000 miles, we didn’t have to make any repairs. I did purchase an AC12 controller as a backup and when I tested it, it worked as well as the AC24.

Fair winds and calm seas.

[olivierlc]

I get my actuator from https://www.hypro.co.uk/
Old was 12 yo and work fine.
Following a salt water leak at the rudder in august, it deteriorated quickly and I preferred to replace it with a new one.
Loss of sensitivity compared to jefa electrical motor.
Works with all electronic units (mine is a ST6000 Raymarine).


Regards