Best anchor for tanzer 26'?

[Ericsstinnett]

Best anchor type and size for a 26' tanzer, also would like to hear thoughts on tackle and gear, would prefer topic to be from the perspective that you would be living on the hook on the 26'tanzer 1976 model. I want the best rope, chain and anchor, as well as any attachments, additional anchors, and everything that would relate to anchoring, living on the hook in all seafloor types and locations.

Sincerely, Eric S. Stinnett

[Panope]

Eric, I'll start by asking if your boat has a bow roller or not. If not, are you willing to install one?

The absence of a bow roller can make a big difference in anchor choice as a heavy anchor will be difficult to bring aboard without damaging the hull.

Steve

[Ericsstinnett]

I will definitely be putting a bow roller! I just the best I can get, something that would hold me in a bad weather situation.

[Ericsstinnett]

It all ready has a bow roller, not sure if it's big enough, I may have to upgrade it.

[Panope]

O.K., the bow roller will be large enough to store the anchor on it. Make sure the roller frame has some sort of 'hoop' that prevents the anchor or rode from 'jumping' out of the roller.

Attachment loads on a cantilevered bow roller can be very very high. Make sure it is attached STRONG to the boat.

After looking at some on-line pictures of a Tanzer 26, it apears the boat does not have an 'bow' anchor rode locker (I also assume that the boat will not have a windlass). This means the rode will likely be stored aft in a cockpit locker. I would normally prefer a rode of all chain (or mostly chain) to eliminate chafe, but this will be impractical to handle.

Given the above, I would get a 25 pound steel anchor (Spade, Mantus or Sarca). Rocna and Manson ROLL BAR anchors are also good but I have found that in the (unlikely) event that these anchors disengage from the sea-bed, re-setting is significantly hampered by attached mud.

I would use 200 feet (or so) of 9/16" nylon 8-plait rope, and as much 1/4" chain (galvanized) as you can store on the foredeck next to the anchor (20 or 30 feet?). I believe in having an anchor ready to deploy at ALL times, so keep the rode attached to the anchor when stowed.

A second, complete anchor set up would be good to have. Get a Fortress FX-16 (10 lb.), 15 feet of 1/4" chain, and another 200 feet of 9/16" nylon 8-plait. Store it in a cockpit locker with the rode attached if possible.

Store the nylon rodes in plastic/rubber laundry hampers (drill a couple holes in the bottom to let the water drain out). When you are retrieving the anchor, place the hamper at your feet and let the rode fall out of your hands, and into the hamper. The 8-plait 'flakes' perfectly into the basket and virtually always comes out tangle free with zero fuss.

Make sure you have good, strong cleats (fore and aft) that are mounted with strong backing plates under the deck. Imagine the boat hanging from a single cleat. If you think it might not rip out of the deck, it is probably strong enough.

It will be imperative that you prevent the rode from chafing where it exits the boat (bow roller or chock). Search for "anchor snubber" and "anchor rode chafe".

Keep in mind that you will have little control over unkown objects (sharp rock, metal debris) on the bottom that can cut your rode at any time.

Careless motor boat operators have been know to pass close to anchored boats, cutting the rode with propeller. If there is any way to have all chain rode, get it.

Good Luck,

Steve

[Ericsstinnett]

I have a chain locker, at least it's a storage compartment at the bow, triangle shaped , seems like the only thing it could be used for is a chain locker. Any other types of chains acceptable or just galvined?

[demacsea]

Eric, I've tried several anchor types over the years including Danforth, Bruce and CQR but a couple of seasons ago I bought a ROCNA. It's much more reliable than any of the previous ones, and I feel confident to recommend it.

[Cheechako]

The "best " anchor will be what fits your bow roller well. Today "best" is likely one of the modern design anchors for most seabeds.

[Stu Jackson]

Why NEW GEN Anchors are Better:

Anchors & TEST Results of New Generation Anchors EXCELLENT & Important

Anchor System Sizing Tables (Reply #6) & Why Swivels are a bad idea Ground Tackle & Anchor System Sizing TABLES & Swivels

In boating, there is no "BEST" of anything. It's all a compromise. Get used to it. Good luck.

[Ericsstinnett]

I'm in the process of designing a anchor right now, from what I see online there's room for a new patient, simple design flaws are evident in the Evolution of anchor technology over the years. While amore efficient anchor can be designed and developed, from what I see in my quick research of anchor technology, it is clear that the majar issue is with fabrication. From my point of veiw, anchors are the most import part of a boats equipment, prioritys change quickly after a engine failure. Simply put, the reason anchor technology has not advanced further is likely due to the issue of how to mass produced a product. That said, the development of the anchor is likely something that is not to high on the priority list of most engineers, why, 1st it must be quickly and easily manufactured to make a profit. From what I see there is still room for massive improvements in anchors and anchor systems. Anyone else share this perspective?


Also, I am going to be fabricating my own anchors, anyone know a link to good blueprints for a spade anchor.
Also, what is statistically the best rock anchor.

I want a all-in one anchor but seems out of reach as yet. What are sea floors composed of: rock, sand, mud, coral, grass,gravel( this is different than rock as it is a mixture of sand or dirt and smaller pebbles). What else is there? Also there is man-made debris. Side note: has anyone any idea or experience in using cables in anchor systems? A lot to think about and a lot of questions to discuss?

[Cheechako]

The only real improvement needed that I can think of for anchors is improvement in their ability to reset on their own in a major wind shift. Solve that and you've got something.

[knockabout]

claw anchor or bruce design was very expensive initial design to hold oil rigs in place / tested to reset then lent itself to recreational boat industry / there only downfall they grab onto things (small bombies , clumps of clay, coral , large balls of weed then the whole lot moves along the bottom) they are rated at twice the holding power per same size anchor compared to other brands / an anchor rarely mentioned is international pattern designed to hold on limestone these are common in south Australia / they have 2 flukes facing down like a claw but are fashioned similar to admiralty pattern flukes / good luck designing a better anchor / we would like to find one that weighs 10 kgs and will hold a 7 ton yacht on any bottom in all conditions ( we use a 27lb plough in the river and drop back to 15lb plough for cruising ) with spare plough , claw , reef , 600 metre 8mm braid rope with 3metres 6mm chain with 8lb folding grapnel for short stays in deep water / ground tackle takes up a lot of room and has to be checked and maintained ( sulu the helmsman on the enterprise presses a button and a force field holds the ship in place ) anchoring seems to be a compromise and continuous learning curve where murphy's law rules

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Ericsstinnett

Best anchor type and size for a 26' tanzer, also would like to hear thoughts on tackle and gear, would prefer topic to be from the perspective that you would be living on the hook on the 26'tanzer 1976 model. I want the best rope, chain and anchor, as well as any attachments, additional anchors, and everything that would relate to anchoring, living on the hook in all seafloor types and locations.

I don't have a recommendation, but it might help folks kibitz if you hum a few more bars about your intended circumstances. Living aboard and anchoring in the same place all the time? Cruising? Or...?

And that could lead to info about your targeted holding ground. If in the same place all the time, is it sand, rock, hard mud, soft mud, slime, etc.?

Some of that info could influence comments about optimum rode make-up (chain? rope/chain? rope?), as would maybe the size of your chain locker (will it hole 300' or rope if you were to go that route?).


Have you anchored before?

And so forth.

-Chris

[Ericsstinnett]

I've never anchored before. I'll be sleeping on the hook on the Texas coast, between corpus Christi and Houston. I'm thinking I'll go all chain. I found some diagrams of anchors so I think I'll just weld up 2 spade anchors. Galvanized Cain 5/16 all the way. Also I have a solid bronze winch I found in a old bard, I think with a little fabrication and a motor I might be able to have a solid bronze windlass. Someone on here mentioned 1/4 chain. 5/16 seems better to me. More forgiving if corrosion should get the best of me. All input is more than welcome,

Sincerely, Eric Stinnett

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Ericsstinnett

I've never anchored before. I'll be sleeping on the hook on the Texas coast, between corpus Christi and Houston. I'm thinking I'll go all chain. I found some diagrams of anchors so I think I'll just weld up 2 spade anchors. Galvanized Cain 5/16 all the way. Also I have a solid bronze winch I found in a old bard, I think with a little fabrication and a motor I might be able to have a solid bronze windlass. Someone on here mentioned 1/4 chain. 5/16 seems better to me. More forgiving if corrosion should get the best of me. All input is more than welcome,

Next question would be "what's the normal holding ground in that neck of the woods?"

If you can pin that down to something common, a likely anchor (suitable for that kind of substrate) from classifieds here or from eBay could solve it easily. Quick installation, call it good. Evaluate how well that works, decide later if you need to improve further. That would give you some experience with anchoring, and with that style of anchor, without having to reinvent a wheel or two in a few short weeks.

All chain gets messy with slimy mud, in case you expect to encounter that. Use as much leading chain as necessary, but then it's easier to clean the longer length of rope leading to the boat.

If you use a windlass, chain needs to fit the chainwheel... so bigger isn't necessarily better.

-Chris