Running a windlass off of inverter

[altruistica]

Is this what is needed. A 24V power supply?


https://www.amazon.com/Switching-Tra...0C5JPGSSN?th=1

[altruistica]

I have a Lofranns Kobra Windlass that I'll be installing:


https://jimmygreen.com/lofrans-windl...ontal-windlass


I'll have two 10.4Kw inverters, serving two 45kWh of LiFePO4 banks. I'm thinking two of these switch mode power supplies run with their outputs paralleled should provide enough power from one of the inverters?


https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077CKG1...v_ov_lig_dp_it


What do you think?

[wingssail]

I really don't understand the need for ANY of this stuff.

A simple set of heavy gauge 12 or 24v wires from the house battery forward to a breaker and the windlass solenoids forward, NO EXTRA EQUIPMENT, NO BATTERY FORWARD, NO INVERTER, CHARGER OR OTHER FALDERALL. Skip all the engineering weirdness, hook up a simple system, and go sailing for once.

My windlass system like I just described has been working perfectly, virtually untouched, for 30+ years. No issues, zero. Just do it.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by wingssail

I really don't understand the need for ANY of this stuff.

A simple set of heavy gauge 12 or 24v wires from the house battery forward to a breaker and the windlass solenoids forward, NO EXTRA EQUIPMENT, NO BATTERY FORWARD, NO INVERTER, CHARGER OR OTHER FALDERALL. Skip all the engineering weirdness, hook up a simple system, and go sailing for once.

My windlass system like I just described has been working perfectly, virtually untouched, for 30+ years. No issues, zero. Just do it.

I agree. Unless you need a much bigger windlass than most of us do, just using a standard DC windlass is the most practical solution.

[JPA Cate]

Ours is like Fred's, as well.

[sailingharry]

Another like Fred's. 12V, direct from house batteries under the aft cabin bunk, to the windlass. 12V. Zero electrical maintenance since installed in 1998. I service it, but never buy new batteries, or chargers, or nuttin. 43' boat, 55lb Rocna, 5/16 G4, deepest anchorage was 75'. And my "winch wench" isn't afraid to stand on the button.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by Cadence

I would have to contest that. The voltage drop is purely a function of the cable.

Originally Posted by wingssail

A simple set of heavy gauge 12 or 24v wires from the house battery forward to a breaker and the windlass solenoids forward,

Another ancient thread, it's ok.
Anyway, the first quote I posted does acknowledge that batt size makes a difference, we, (and I,) get that, but voltage drop goes further.
Batteries don't really "store" electricity, they store the ability to create electron flow from a chemical reaction upon demand.
The number of electrons that the battery can produce/cause to flow, (acknowledging both internal/external resistance,) without voltage drop is a function of plate area.
A single "AA' size dry cell contains more energy in watt-hours than is needed to start a typical V8 automobile engine.
The problem, (even with 8 of them in series for 12V.,) is that there is not enough plate area for them to furnish the current demanded by the starter all at once.
The second quote by "wingsail" is generally the easiest and most reasonable method for the majority of boats, no muss, no fuss, no drama.

As an aside, I spent a few hours on an old, (1930s,) 130' motor yacht, (this was decades ago,) and all the ships lighting was incandescent.
Her house banks were 10, (yes ten,) 8D batteries, for 120V DC.
Easy switch-over from shore to batt power.
The 120V AC came from generators, but when peace and quiet was mandatory the motor-generator would supply the desired AC power.
Edit; regarding AC for a windlass? Two boats near me have had their windlasses converted from AC back to DC.