How connect two bilge pumps to ione thru hull

[xxhat]

Want to eliminate one thru hull.


Right now each bilge pump has its own thru hull.


Was thinking of eliminating one by having each pump go to a sea chest then the sea chest goes to the thru hull.


What are others doing ?


How else can I eliminate one thru hull ?


maybe by having one pump go to the cockpit ?


Thanks


jim

[rbk]

Originally Posted by xxhat

Want to eliminate one thru hull.


Right now each bilge pump has its own thru hull.


Was thinking of eliminating one by having each pump go to a sea chest then the sea chest goes to the thru hull.


What are others doing ?


How else can I eliminate one thru hull ?


maybe by having one pump go to the cockpit ?


Thanks


jim

I’ve always been keen on dropping the emergency (higher in bilge) pump into the cockpit, that way you have a kiss built in alarm if the water is rising or when it is subsiding.

[GrahamO]

This is also my preferred option. No interdependence and a good warning (wet feet....)

Originally Posted by rbk

I’ve always been keen on dropping the emergency (higher in bilge) pump into the cockpit, that way you have a kiss built in alarm if the water is rising or when it is subsiding.

[SV_Harbinger]

I would be leary of having a bilge pump discharge to the cockpit on my boat, if the water is coming in because one of the through hulls for a cockpit drain failed it would only be recirculating water and not buying me time to do something about the leak. But I'm paranoid-obsessive in matters of damage control... On the same vien you could possibly rig it to discharge out of the outboard edge of the coaming...

[rbk]

Originally Posted by SV_Harbinger

I would be leary of having a bilge pump discharge to the cockpit on my boat, if the water is coming in because one of the through hulls for a cockpit drain failed it would only be recirculating water and not buying me time to do something about the leak. But I'm paranoid-obsessive in matters of damage control... On the same vien you could possibly rig it to discharge out of the outboard edge of the coaming...

I have two thru hills servicing my cockpit via 4 scuppers both of which o can inspect from the cockpit locker. My through is at least you’d know something was up before it came over the sole. Alarms are also an option.

[atoll]

you would need non return valves after each bilge pump before the two hoses tee together to a single hose to the skin fitting

[GILow]

Originally Posted by atoll

you would need non return valves after each bilge pump before the two hoses tee together to a single hose to the skin fitting

Oh no! The dreaded non-return debate is about to begin. Makes guns and anchors seem like a sewing circle discussion.

I'm getting myself a spot on the fence.

[rbk]

Originally Posted by GILow

Oh no! The dreaded non-return debate is about to begin. Makes guns and anchors seem like a sewing circle discussion.

I'm getting myself a spot on the fence.

You think that’s entertaining? Someone started an ‘exterior varnish’ thread, better get over there and claim a seat lol

[GILow]

Originally Posted by rbk

You think that’s entertaining? Someone started an ‘exterior varnish’ thread, better get over there and claim a seat lol

Ha ha. I know my limits! [emoji846]

[Rob.Lovelace]

Originally Posted by GILow

Oh no! The dreaded non-return debate is about to begin. Makes guns and anchors seem like a sewing circle discussion.

I'm getting myself a spot on the fence.

what, is there a down side to non return valves? I have one i’m about to fit (japsci) please advise if i’m wasting my time.

[Olddan1943]

Originally Posted by Rob.Lovelace

what, is there a down side to non return valves? I have one i’m about to fit (japsci) please advise if i’m wasting my time.

Check valves (non-return valve) can and have been known to stick.
If it sticks open, your screwed, if it sticks closed, your screwed.

You are setting yourself up for 'failure' and perhaps a denial of an insurance claim.

The price of putting in the through hull doesn't cost much and then the job will be done correct, the first time. Sweeping bends and turns, NO fittings in the hose either.

Remember, one pump, one overboard.

[AuroraGH]

Originally Posted by Olddan1943

Check valves (non-return valve) can and have been known to stick.
If it sticks open, your screwed, if it sticks closed, your screwed.

Ok, I have a check valve attached to the 90 that routes my pump outlet upwards. After the check valve, there is about a 4 foot rise to max height, then a u-bend down to a thru hull that faces downwards (because wineglass hull's aft do that) a bit above the WL.

I do not understand how I would get rid of it. In fact, I did remove it and the pump empties the bilge, sucks air, shuts off, stand pipe flows back into the bilge which triggers the pump again....and it will do that forever.

What am I missing?

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by Rob.Lovelace

what, is there a down side to non return valves? I have one i’m about to fit (japsci) please advise if i’m wasting my time.

check valves have 2 issues
1. they reduce water flow a bit (a bit is important with bilge pumps)
2. they often get stuck. Not so bad when they get stuck open really bad when they get stuck closed or partially closed.

[J.Kitchens]

If you ever needed both pumps at the same time the discharge would be limited by the size of the skin fitting.

The sea chest is a bad idea; you would have to make it large enough to handle the flow of both pumps and tall enough that the level never reaches the input lines from the pumps. How would you empty it? A third bilge pump? Or rely on the current pumps to pressurize the chest? Which would never work.

With check valves on each line one pump could turn off the flow of the other.

Bilge pump systems should be as simple as possible. Maybe you should check the ABYC standards for bilge pumps and share your idea with your insurance company.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by J.Kitchens

If you ever needed both pumps at the same time the discharge would be limited by the size of the skin fitting.

The sea chest is a bad idea; you would have to make it large enough to handle the flow of both pumps and tall enough that the level never reaches the input lines from the pumps. How would you empty it? A third bilge pump? Or rely on the current pumps to pressurize the chest? Which would never work.

With check valves on each line one pump could turn off the flow of the other.

Bilge pump systems should be as simple as possible. Maybe you should check the ABYC standards for bilge pumps and share your idea with your insurance company.

I reckon the sea chest would work just fine, reasonably tall, pumps emptying into top with a large skin fitting plumbed to the bottom.The gravity monster will prevail.