Asymmetric Spinnaker Weight / Rigging

[CHM]

I have a line on a nice asym for a good price for a 43 ft Bene Oceanis 430. It is a 1.5 oz weight. I have read that 0.75 oz is preferential, but most threads I have looked at involve smaller boats. Any experience or advice? If the sail is too heavy, I will pass. My intention is cruising, not racing. Also, I am having a difficult time finding specific recommendations for sheet blocks, pads, tack block, etc. Any suggestions for specific rigging hardware? Thanks.

[over40pirate]

I had a Asymmetric spinnaker on my 35' sloop while cruising. I used a sock to douse it. At times it was a handfull to get into the sock.
I sold it after I got a light weight dacron (3-4oz) sail, that I think was called a reacher. It was for a larger boat, and I had it recut, into a genoa (about 200%)
It hanks on. I installed an inner forestay, about 1' behind the forestay. I didn't want it further back, as I didn't want to mess with runners.
It's much easier to use, than the asym, and points reasonably high, in light air.
Down wind in light air, wing and wing, with the roller genoa, is quite effective.
This sail, lets you sail when there is very light air.

[Nicholson58]

I like the durability of the heavier sail for cruising. Lighter would be marginally better on the low end but you aren't racing. If you cruise off-shore and think you might operate in swells and short handed the 1.5 will hold shape and be less prone to the rapid wear of many hours of chafe etc. The lower end use will be around 5 to 8 knots apparent. 3/4 will get you down to 2 or 3 apparent. Above 7 or so they will both fly. If the wind pipes up, the 1-1/2 will not stretch out. As an AS, you will be flying on a reach probably so apparent will be on the beam more or less.

There are a number of new things (equipment) available now. At the All Sail show in Chicago we saw a code zero-like device that wraps the kite around the loose, code zero rolling forestay. Drop the whole thing on deck and pack it away. Hoist the wrapped up sail and unwind it.

The heavier sail will be physically harder to hoist and retrieve. We hoist our 1.5 AS from the turtle on the cabin floor through the hatch directly and in its ATN snuffer. It gets snuffed and dropped back down the hatch. I can barely lift the sail in its bag so it never comes up any other way. We are 58 feet and the mast is 80. The AS is nominally a 200 % geny. Our rig is ketch so we also have a mizzen staysail. It is really easy to hoist and retrieve and usually adds a lot to speed.

Before you buy you can check prices on the many used sail sites.

If you have tracks, add a couple blocks so you can run double sheets. One aft in proper line and one forward to choke it down if necessary. We have a traditional pole, topping lift & foreguy. We run the pole low since the sail luff is long and the sail is relatively flat. How will you handle the tac? If you intend to make the tac to a forward deck fitting you may want to add a pennant to elevate the tac over the rails. Blocks should be large as you can stand. Try Marine Parts Depot on line for blocks you can afford.

[savoir]

1.5 oz will last longer, but that is not necessarily better. It won't set at broader angles in the lower wind range around 0 - 7 knots. On the other hand the 1.5 oz will set just fine in 8 - 15 knots. Above 15 there is no need to bother with any A sail. You will be at hull speed and just creating headaches for yourself.

Whatever weight you go with, use a snuffer which will last for years and is easy to operate.

[Hud3]

We had the 1.5 oz for our 12-13 ton boat. I think the 3/4 would have been too light. It set fine at 5 knots apparent and above. When you hear the sail snap like a rifle shot when the boat rolls in quartering seas, you'll be glad you have the heavier fabric.

Ours was in an ATN sock, rigged with a block on a crane on the masthead to prevent chafe to the halyard, an ATN Tacker attached to the sail's tack, a tack block shackled to the tang on the bowsprit, a tack line lead aft to the cockpit to adjust tack height, and two snatch blocks attached to the stern cleats with webbing loops and a bit of lashing to hold them up off the teak toe rail.