Rule Bilge Alarm Volume & Wiring 2nd Buzzer

[theway]

I recently read reviews for the Rule 33AL and many talk about how quite the alarm is. I thought mine was just old, but as one person said “it wouldn’t wake you if you were sleeping right next to it.”

So here’s where it gets interesting. I thought I would just splice in my own buzzer near the Rule one. So I exposed the wires and attached my buzzer (small white plastic kind). I flipped the float switch and my new buzzer would only quietly fizzle a bit. Ok, let’s test the buzzer. I wire it into another 12V connection and it’s loud and clear. Buzzer is fine. So then I take a multimeter to the exposed wire near the Rule buzzer and I get 12.7V. Ok, then I test with a test light (Works) and a small string of 12V LED and they all light up fine. So, I then try the my new buzzer again and still only a light fizzle . Maybe 5% of the volume compared to when I attached elsewhere.

What is with this Rule system and quiet buzzers? Any ideas/thoughts?

Thanks

[stormalong]

My guess would be current and resistance. The float switch is probably bad - high resistance or there is a resistor in series to reduce volume.

Do this: set up your DVM to measure current and put it in series with your alarm. Current is measured in series and there will be a different connect point on the DVM. Then measure the current both direct off the battery and through the alarm. I'll bet the current is very low from the depth alarm.

The current to light LEDs is very low. Apparently the alarm is limiting the current for some reason.

[Reefmagnet]

It doesn't supply enough current to power the buzzer. Test the voltage again with the buzzer in circuit. It will likely drop significantly. You can use a relay and wire the buzzer to it's own supply power to get around this.



Having said that, I think it is better to wire up an independent alarm, as an issue with the bilge pump could lead to high bilge water levels and that same issue could stifle the alarm also. Just install a stand alone float switch and wire the buzzer to that. Also makes it easy to test.

[theway]

Aww yea, that would make sense. I’m still a novice. I have a clamp meter I’ll throw on it next opportunity to check the current. What is considered low current in this scenario? I wouldn’t think A tiny buzzer would need much... 15-30mA

This Rule alarm is already on its own float switch. But I think a separate float switch would be a good idea for a second buzzer.

[moseriw]

Urgent: use a Relay to the rule. Otherwise you will kill this scrap within a year.


UhOh it cost only SIXTY DOLLARS!
If possible try to mount a swimswitch for a swimming pool it is only around 8 USD and will last... with the relay.

btw: i dismantled the broken rule switch (said to stand 23 or 27 Amps) to find out that the contacts are the cheapest chromed iron money can buy- The chrome will melt away within 10-20 contacts and then the iron burns to coal within a year.

[Be Free]

Originally Posted by theway

Aww yea, that would make sense. I’m still a novice. I have a clamp meter I’ll throw on it next opportunity to check the current. What is considered low current in this scenario? I wouldn’t think A tiny buzzer would need much... 15-30mA

This Rule alarm is already on its own float switch. But I think a separate float switch would be a good idea for a second buzzer.

Check your meter. Not all clamp meters will measure DC amps.

[Cheechako]

A Rule float switch and a Radio Shack buzzer worked fine for me. The buzzer draws like zero amps.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Reefmagnet

It doesn't supply enough current to power the buzzer. Test the voltage again with the buzzer in circuit. It will likely drop significantly. You can use a relay and wire the buzzer to it's own supply power to get around this.



Having said that, I think it is better to wire up an independent alarm, as an issue with the bilge pump could lead to high bilge water levels and that same issue could stifle the alarm also. Just install a stand alone float switch and wire the buzzer to that. Also makes it easy to test.

[Marathon1150]

I replaced the very quiet Rule buzzer with a Volkswagen car horn. It works really well and there is nowhere on the boat that it cannot be heard loud and clear even with the engine running.

I just bought another Rule high water alarm for our second boat and will not bother installing the stock buzzer. I'll do the same as above when I get around to installing the float switch. I bought another Rule because the other brands receive even worse user ratings/reviews.

I note the post above regarding swimming pool equipment alternatives to bilge alarms. Looks like a good idea if salt water isn't an issue.

[moseriw]

I use them in salt water. No problem. But they are rasther big with about4x4 inches.
And the way from down to up is an issue.

[smac999]

The rule buzzer is ear peicing and it hurts to stand in front of it. I put one n a few weeks back.

You have other issues. Probably Bad wiring or float switch limiting voltage to the buzzer.

The float switch is just a switch that puts 12v to the buzzer And it should be the same as when hooked to battery.

Measure the voltage at the buzzers when the float is up using both buzzer wires. You may have only measured the pos to a ground bus to get the 12.7v Which is only checking half the circuit.

A clamp meter is not going to help you Test this with such a small draw on the buzzer.

[JD-MDR]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

A Rule float switch and a Radio Shack buzzer worked fine for me. The buzzer draws like zero amps.

I friend gave me a cheap buzzer and I wired it to the Rule 3 way switch. It seems to work fine. So when ever the light and pump go on so does the buzzer. The buzzer looks something like this but the one I got probably only cost $5https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000055174369.html

[sophiedaisey]

A Water Witch high water alarm will wake the dead and is independent from the bilge pump system. Works great.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by sophiedaisey

A Water Witch high water alarm will wake the dead and is independent from the bilge pump system. Works great.

That's the way it should be. Maybe a not loud buzzer for a cycling pump would be good as an indicator of a pending problem but not one that wakes the dead as apposed to a high water alarm.

[JD-MDR]

I guess mine is not really a high water alarm just a audible indicator letting me know how often my pump is going on same as the light but I cant always see the light. I do have a visible high water alarm. The floor boards will start floating