My 12v set up

[Matt sachs]

Well actually there are no wires to worry about. Im starting from scratch and wiring is next on the agenda. I dont mind having a 50 amp service, as long as I can find hook ups? I vaguley remember reading about an adapter that allows a 50 amp boat to (safely) plug into a 30amp shore power service...Any thoughts?

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

Well actually there are no wires to worry about. Im starting from scratch and wiring is next on the agenda. I dont mind having a 50 amp service, as long as I can find hook ups? I vaguley remember reading about an adapter that allows a 50 amp boat to (safely) plug into a 30amp shore power service...Any thoughts?

From my experience in marinas, which I confess is not that great in the last few years so might have changed, but 99.9% of the marinas will have 30 amp 120V connections. 90% of the marinas will also have 50 amp 240V connections, about 1% will have 50 amp 120V connections.

Unless you need 240V for something I would go with plain, ordinary 30 amp 120V all the way.

MOST IMPORTANT!!!. If you have nothing on your boat and are starting from scratch then install Smart Plugs on the cord on the boat side and the matching Smartplug boat inlet. This is a must do. The Smartplug is 1000% improvement over the old twist log Hubbell connectors.

[Matt sachs]

Thanks skip. Ill look into it. (only 1000% - thats all?) LOL. Thanks again.

[skipmac]

I went back and looked at the panel picture and see it is set up for 240V so I guess you are looking at a 50 amp 240V setup.

Will you have a large air conditioner or electric heat?

Will you have electric hot water?

Will you have an electric stove?

Will you run a med to large air con and a lot of other electric loads at the same time (hair drier, microwave, electric stove)?

If you don't have any of the above requirements you don't need 240V 50 amp. Be aware that even if you don't use it if you plug into a 240v 50amp supply at a marina they will charge you more, maybe double than to connect to 120V 30 amp.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

Thanks skip. Ill look into it. (only 1000% - thats all?) LOL. Thanks again.

Well since the old twist locks are famous for overheating and starting fires that could burn up your boat then you could do the math this way.

Old style dock cord new - $250

Boat $250,000

Burned up boat $0.00

difference between $250 and $250,000 is 1000 so they could be 1000% better or 1000% safer or maybe just 1000% cheaper than a new boat.

[Matt sachs]

Originally Posted by skipmac

I went back and looked at the panel picture and see it is set up for 240V so I guess you are looking at a 50 amp 240V setup.

Will you have a large air conditioner or electric heat?

Will you have electric hot water?

Will you have an electric stove?

Will you run a med to large air con and a lot of other electric loads at the same time (hair drier, microwave, electric stove)?

If you don't have any of the above requirements you don't need 240V 50 amp. Be aware that even if you don't use it if you plug into a 240v 50amp supply at a marina they will charge you more, maybe double than to connect to 120V 30 amp.

AC is 110, Water heater is 110/ engine heat, stove is fuel. Currently I dont have plans for a huge electrical demand, but I want to keep my options open. If it can be done correctly, I would like to be able to plug into both 120V 30 amp and 240V 50 amp.
Calders book addressed this, but Ill have to go back and read it again.

Honestly I had not considerd the marina charges. Good point.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

AC is 110, Water heater is 110/ engine heat, stove is fuel. Currently I dont have plans for a huge electrical demand, but I want to keep my options open. If it can be done correctly, I would like to be able to plug into both 120V 30 amp and 240V 50 amp.
Calders book addressed this, but Ill have to go back and read it again.

Honestly I had not considerd the marina charges. Good point.

To go back and answer that question, yes you can get an adapter that will correctly/safely give you 120V from a 240V connection on the dock.

FYI 240 V is just two 120V wires that are out of phase, so total of four wires. 120V #1, 120V #2, neutral, safety/ground. So connect #1 to neutral for 120v, #2 to neutral for an additional 120V source, #1 to #2 adds 120 + 120 to give you 240 V.

So an adapter used one of the 120V lines, the neutral and ground leaving one 120V line unconnected. However, if you have a 240V panel in the boat it might complicate the wiring depending on how you have the box configured. Since you will have a 240V boat if you only have access to a 120V 30 amp dock connection you may leave half the circuits on your boat disconnected. You will need to figure out what things you want or need to power if you only have 120V.

[mitiempo]

The ELCI you have is 120/240 - model 3404 I believe. I would, if I was to keep it, wire it for 120 volt/50 amp and buy the shore power adaptor from 30 amp to 50 amp 120 for the many times it will be needed.

The best solution in my opinion (and Calder agrees) for a boat with high AC loads, heaters in particular, is to wire dual 30 amp inputs with heaters on one and everything else on the other which becomes the main inlet. This requires 2 separate AC panels. Adaptors are available to split 30 amp, 50 amp 120, or 50 amp 120/240 into 2 30 amp ends to plug in each inlet.