My 12v set up

[Ex-Calif]

Don't fuse for the pigtail.

[Matt sachs]

Next question; dripless vs traditional packing shaft seal? I want a dry bilge, but more importantly I want to be able to make repairs while still in the water, so the packing is sounding better, even though I have already bought the dripless seal. What to you have? do you like it? or is this a non issue?

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

Next question; dripless vs traditional packing shaft seal? I want a dry bilge, but more importantly I want to be able to make repairs while still in the water, so the packing is sounding better, even though I have alread bought the dripless seal. What to you have? do you like it? or is this a non issue?

I have the old fashioned packing gland. Considered dripless and researched the issue a bit. Most boaters with a dripless are very happy with the results. A few reported problems and if you do have a significant problem it will require hauling the boat.

Also as I understand the design of the dripless there is a higher potential for serious problems with a dripless. If the bellows (or sleeve or whatever it's called) ruptures you have a big leak vs a smaller leak if a packing gland blows out,

[hlev00]

It would be better to start this as a new thread in the appropriate forum.




Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[Matt sachs]

I think I may need to change the title of the thread to "Questions about my build/refit" How do I get the title of a thread I started changed?

[hlev00]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

I think I may need to change the title of the thread to "Questions about my build/refit" How do I get the title of a thread I started changed?

The advantage of starting a new thread over in Propellers & Drives Systems is that many subject area experts spend more time in specific forums. If you change the topic to something general as you propose is that you risk it begin skipped over.

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

I think I may need to change the title of the thread to "Questions about my build/refit" How do I get the title of a thread I started changed?

Matt - doesn't happen often but send a PM to one of the mods and they can probably help you out.

<edit> Oops - Just realized this in context of thread drift to packing glands. In this case I am with hlev - Once a subject changes completely it is often better to start a new thread so people can follow along better.

Mods - if they are being benevolent can also "cut out" a couple of posts and start them into a new thread - same drill. PM one and based on workload they may help you out here.

[Matt sachs]

Originally Posted by hlev00

The advantage of starting a new thread over in Propellers & Drives Systems is that many subject area experts spend more time in specific forums. If you change the topic to something general as you propose is that you risk it begin skipped over.

Good point, thanks.

[Zil]

Ok. back to the lap top. My Acer is 19.5 volts. To use a dedicated adapter, 12 volts DC must be changed to AC then transformer-ed to 19.5 volts then changed to DC again. Would using a small inverter along with the original Acer wall-brick use that much more current than a dedicated adapter? The inverter could be used for other devices as well as the lap top.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Zil

Ok. back to the lap top. My Acer is 19.5 volts. To use a dedicated adapter, 12 volts DC must be changed to AC then transformer-ed to 19.5 volts then changed to DC again. Would using a small inverter along with the original Acer wall-brick use that much more current than a dedicated adapter? The inverter could be used for other devices as well as the lap top.

The quickest, cheapest, easiest solution is to get the car charger with the cigarette light plug for the laptop. That converts 12V DC directly to 19.5V DC. And yes this will use less power than an inverter but if you want the inverter for other uses then you can use one.

Just be aware that the cheaper inverters do not make a pure sine wave output and some AC powered devices don't do well with this.

[Panope]

"183.425 - Conductors: General

(g) This section does not apply to communication systems; electronic navigation equipment; electronic circuits having current flow of less than one ampere; conductors which are totally inside an equipment housing; resistance conductors that control circuit amperage; high voltage secondary conductors and terminations that are in ignition systems; pigtails of less than seven inches of exposed length; and cranking motor conductors."

From the above Coast guard rule pertaining to wire size and type, I concluded that smaller wire than 16 gauge could be used for powering my small LED lights and still be within the rules.

I used an individual (2 strand) 20 gauge wire between a Blue Seas fuse block and each light fixture. The light fixtures draw about 0.1 amp so a 0.5 amp fuse protecting each wire is more than adequate to carry the load.

Certainly, a 0.5 amp fuse will blow long before the conductor or the wimpy pigtail on the fixture catches fire.

Steve

[Matt sachs]

Good info. Thanks All. and Ill keep on topic...:-)

[Matt sachs]

I got the shore power breaker box today. I ordered a 30 amp but got a 50 amp. More is better, right? ;-)

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

I got the shore power breaker box today. I ordered a 30 amp but got a 50 amp. More is better, right? ;-)

NO - get the 30 amp.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Matt sachs

I got the shore power breaker box today. I ordered a 30 amp but got a 50 amp. More is better, right? ;-)

Not necessarily. First issue, are all the wires sized for 50 amps? If you are wired for 30 amps and the breaker is 50 then you are at risk of burning the wires before the breaker pops.