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Old 28-12-2007, 17:47   #31
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here's one of my favorite resources for general stuff, they also have a good selection of general electrical stuff. McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr
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Old 12-02-2008, 00:02   #32
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Long time, I know!

Hey all,

I promise we're doing work! We're almost done with the engine bay - in fact, we'd planned on putting the engine in last weekend but, with our rendezvous going flat, we're going to take some more time. I promise I'll post more pictures of the boat!

But to tide you all over, here's our new electric panel (though it's not quite done yet.) It's being made by Mobile Marine Electrical Services (Mobile Marine Electrical Services - Custom Boat Electrical Panels).



Fair leads,
Aaron N.
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Old 07-03-2008, 23:02   #33
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UPDATE!

Alrighty all!

It has been a while, but here are some pictures showing our progress.

Me painting engine bay:


Engine bay, mid-painting:


Hanging locker wire installation:


Reinstalling manual bilge pump:


New battery cables get heatshrink:


Electrical panel cabinet getting near goody-install time:


House wiring going to battery monitor shunt:


Wiring running up to panel cabinet:


Negative bus and bracket holding battery tray down:


Two T-105s sitting in our quad-battery tray. Old cabin light pulling engine bay duty:


Wiring race going port:


Another of the race going port:


Wiring coming out of PVC running aft:


PVC race running aft:


Shorepower and DC outlets in:


Bilge hoses:


Bilge hoses, manual bilge pump, wiring race with wires going to respective places. I've tried to be orderly!:


LPG hose running aft to go through-deck to tanks:


Fuel hose coming from racor filter in under sink. New motor mount feet waiting for engine:


Racor and tank selection valve:


A couple more right after this message...
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Old 07-03-2008, 23:09   #34
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UPDATE CONT'd!

Dad putting heatshrink on new battery cables:


Dad installing bilge pump:


Doing some tiding up in the hanging locker...zip ties are awkward with one hand:


Testing new cabin light wiring with test light:


Running new wire to bow running lights:


Some stuff installed in the electric panel cabinet:


Beautiful, blue Perkins repainted:


Another shot of the pretty blue ready for transport back to the boat:


OK, that's it for now. I'll update as I take more pictures.

Fair leads,
Aaron N.
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Old 08-03-2008, 01:59   #35
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Are those battery cables Positive (red), Negative (Yellow), or is one of them a Fuel Tank Sender (pink)?
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Old 08-03-2008, 05:30   #36
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That's very nice looking work, Aaron... you sure did dive right into it, didn't you? Before and after pictures side by side would tell quite a story. I used Mark at Mobile Marine Electric for my custom panels, too, and found him to be a good guy, very knowledgeable and good to work with. He does nice work. Best, Bob S/V Restless
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Old 08-03-2008, 07:05   #37
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Gord,

I used black heat shrink to signify negative, with no markers on the cables length. Red heat shrink on both ends and spaced periodically along the length for house positive, red ends with yellow spaced periodically for starting positive and starter power, and red ends with red/yellow spaced periodically for the alternator.

I know, not "standard", but my system is simple, well marked, there'll be a full wiring diagram behind the panel, plus each cable is marked with a label covered in clear heat shrink. The difference in cost for a spool one one color cable made it worth it.

Cheers,
Aaron.
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Old 23-05-2008, 22:50   #38
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YAY!!!

Hello all!

WE'RE FINISHED! At least with the wiring.

To see pictures of my panel, from concept to install, plus the cold cathode lights I made, click the following:
Panel/CCFLs

To view all of the pictures I've taken so far, in somewhat of a "before/after" for, click the following:
Rewiring/Engine Bay Refurb

We're not done entirely, but the engine is aligned, coupled and bolted down. Just have to get a new muffler (Top in/top out) as I can't find a place I like for my current side-in, side-out. Once we get everything in there done, we're going to do another coat of paint to hide all of our install scratches. Then I'll post pictures of the completed engine bay, and I'll take pictures of some of the visible wire runs throughout the boat.

Hope everyone is swell. We're excited to be nearing a point where we can use our boat!

Fruity oranges,
Aaron N.
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Old 28-11-2008, 21:02   #39
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Hello all,

For anyone who is interested, I've just added some photos showing our fully installed engine and refinished bilge. The photos are organized as well.

Asia Marie Rewiring/Engine Removal/install

Best to all!
Aaron N.
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Old 28-11-2008, 22:25   #40
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How much did that electrical panel cost. Looks real nice.
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Old 29-11-2008, 01:36   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blahman View Post
... The photos are organized as well...
Aaron N.
As is the work depicted.
Nice job, Aaron. (on the boat, and the photos)
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Old 29-11-2008, 04:06   #42
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Hey Aaron, I JUST found this thread and all of the work you've been doing (along with going to school!). What a great Father-Son project! We'll definitely need to come over and check out your boat.

By the by, I just got a little Brother labeler that you can stick labels on wires and then put clear heat shrink over them for protection (according to the SSCA boys). I'll show it to you to see if it has any benefits for you. I'm using it to label switches all over the boat and put dates on parts replaced, etc. Pretty cool.

See ya' all soon!
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Old 29-11-2008, 07:05   #43
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Liberty-
"By the by, I just got a little Brother labeler " if that's the saem type I've used in past, it is a thermal labeller, like thermal fax paper. Even on the switch panel, enough heat comes through the bulkhead to turn some of them all-black after one season. Don't get your hopes up for it.
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Old 29-11-2008, 08:32   #44
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How much did that electrical panel cost. Looks real nice.
$960 including shipping. It was fully assembled and wired as a unit. The total cost of the Blue Seas System's panels I planned to use was ~$800, and they would have been four separate panels. I would have had to make some larger panel to put them in, then wire them all together, then wire them into the boat.

So while it was expensive, the ~$175 more we paid for panel was worth it for it being exactly as we wanted, with more possibility of expansion, and being ready to install.

Plus, Mark at MMES, who is an ABYC certified tech, was an extremely valuable source of electrical knowledge. We are very pleased with his service, product, and the way the panel looks in the boat. It will be great when we redo the counters with solid-surface (Corian type stuff.) I highly suggest working with MMES to get a panel.


Steve,

Thanks. We have one of the little brother label makers, but as hellosailor said, any significant heat turns the labels black, whether or not they're covered with heatshrink. In fact, the heat from the heatgun used to shrink the heatshrink will do it in half a second!!

To label our wiring throughout the boat, I wrote directly on wires with a permanent marker in such a way and place that it is easily legible. In the engine bay where the wires are likely to get diesel or other chemicals on them, I wrote on paper labels with marker, then heatshrunk those to the wire. I feel this will probably last longer. The better method would have been to use one of the embossing label makers, but I don't have one and I do have pen and paper!

Cheers,
Aaron N.
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Old 21-06-2009, 04:07   #45
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Replacing Instruments

Blahman,
Your engine instrument panel is not that dissimilar to mine. I have never understood why yacht builders insist on placing the tachometer, oil and pressure gauges etc down on the side of the cockpit. It means that when you are running the engine and operating the tiller or the wheel you have to bend over to see what is going on.

I have duplicated the instruments and now have them in a highly visible position in the front of the cockpit and that has made life so much easier. Chasing the wiring through was a pain in the proverbial but I was happy they all went in relatively easily.

Good luck with your engine. What sort it it?

Masquerade
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