110v boat in Europe

[TJ D]

Thanks, I'll have a look at the isolating transformer, but I think that these things are heavy and expensive, and I really don't want to add any permanently installed equipment just for this purpose.

We've got everything pretty well sorted, are charging, and everything save the water heater is working. We are not planning to use the inverter to run the heater permanently. The Webasto's our normal heating system, but it's overkill for a morning when we just want to take the edge off a slightly chilly cabin in the AM. It's also loud and we're trying not to tee off the neighbors.

We'll have a look at the portable transformer, since we're not running anything off of it that should be sensitive to the HZ difference anyway.

Otherwise, we'll go with the 220v heater plugged into the dock and not worry about the hot water. Really, we don't need it anyway, as the marina we're in has some really nice showers anyway.

I appreciate the responses.

TJ

[foufou]

A lot of good and valuable comments here. But one error; Smac999 stated that a 1500 Watt water heater would draw 130 amps. Not so, only 13 amps. A smallish load handled easily by 15 gauge circuits.

[TJ D]

I believe that he was talking about the DC load prior to the inverter, in which case, he's correct.

TJ

[Catalysis]

TJ,
The Victron Auto Isolation transformers are $550 for 2000W and $775 for 3600W.
They use newer toroidal technology and so are pretty light at 45lbs
Paul



Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[TJ D]

[QUOTE=Catalysis;2205647]TJ,
The Victron Auto Isolation transformers are $550 for 2000W and $775 for 3600W.
They use newer toroidal technology and so are pretty light at 45lbs
Paul



Thanks, I'll take a look at them.


TJ

[thunderhoof]

Hi,
I have a Eurozone built boat in the US, a Beneteau. I believe the water heater can be rewired (by moving connections on the unit) for 220v as well as the battery charger (I guess you already have that sorted.). Check the manuals. Most everything else on my boat, including refrigeration, is 12 VDC so if that is your case you might make it work without significant expense.

[thunderhoof]

Just thought of more issues. You will need US/EU adapters at each outlet and a local 220 VAC plug or adapter on your shore power line. Also if you have an AC refrigerator, check the manual to see if it can be rewired for 220 VAC. I suggest you make a list of all changes for when you come back to the Colonies and need to convert to 110 VAC.

[TJ D]

Thunderhoof,

Basically the whole boat runs on DC, so just the battery charger is really getting us by pretty well. We've got a big Victron unit permanently installed, fortunately. We have 2 shore power inlets, one for 110 which is the one hooked up to everything, hence the original post seeking something portable.


The second one is just run right to the 220v charger, and nowhere else. And that's fine, except that we would like to run a space heater for a few hours a day without running the 110v inverter to do so, even though we can seemingly without trouble. Hot water would be a bonus, but not really needed since we have nice showers here anyway, and when we're out cruising, the engine takes care of the water heating anyay.

But, I really don't feel like embarking on a wiring job, so I think that 220v to the dock for the heater we're using occasionally will do the trick well enough.

I think that we've got our plan of action figured out.

Anyway, thanks guys. My questions have been answered quite nicely.

We're liking England so far, by the way. We rented a car for a week, and this driving on the wrong side of the road thing takes a lot of concentration, but otherwise, all's quite nice so far.

TJ

[Getweh]

Originally Posted by foufou

A lot of good and valuable comments here. But one error; Smac999 stated that a 1500 Watt water heater would draw 130 amps. Not so, only 13 amps. A smallish load handled easily by 15 gauge circuits.

130A@ 12VDC, 13A @ 120VAC

[Getweh]

[QUOTE=TJ D;2205657]

Originally Posted by Catalysis

TJ,
The Victron Auto Isolation transformers are $550 for 2000W and $775 for 3600W.
They use newer toroidal technology and so are pretty light at 45lbs
Paul



Thanks, I'll take a look at them.


TJ

Look at this - For reasons beyond the scope of this forum, I've used one for sensitive equipment for years, and they're cheap and Hardy;

Simran THG4000 4000 W Watts Step Down Voltage Converter 220v to 110v Transformer

G

[topmast]

Some heaters with the digital control panel (and induction hotplates) don't like the modified square wave output of the dumb inverters They need full sine. Some stuff give off more heat on wrong freq. (hysteresis)

[lordgeoff]

As I said earlier if you install a second input to the boat for 220 DIRECT to your battery charger you have most needs covered. The same 220 line coming to your battery charger can have a dual 220 V socket which you run to a power board below and run local EURO heaters kettle microwave etc..whatever if you wish. The only issue is your water heater which may need adapting. For cooking gas is the best. You can carry plenty of local gas with local adaptor fittings. Not hard to gravity drain whatever local gas bottle you get your hand on into your US or whatever gas bottle.
My boat is 110V (US) if I wanted to use the same input and run 220V it is not a biggie to adapt.
Believer in KISS.

[admiralslater]

Originally Posted by valhalla360

A properly sized 220v battery charger and properly sized 110v inverter is the best option.


Remember with a step down transformer (yellow work site box shown in other posts), you aren't addressing the 50hz vs 60hz issue. Not a problem for resistive loads like a toaster. For motors it may or may not be an issue depending on the design. Also, if you have an AC clock, it likely will be wrong pretty much all the time. Battery powered electronics are usually OK as the chargers can handle anything from 110-220v and 50-60hz (check the label to be sure).

Our Outremer is a 110 boat in the Grenadines .and we have a 110 and 220 receptacle in the transoms .We mounted a step down transformer in the the engine room and wit a selector switch we send power to the the boat either through or around the the transformer . the hertz thing is a big deal if using cheap motors (panda washing machine)motor smoked , or a cheap toaster,burnt the toast . Other wise very simple

[TJ D]

Originally Posted by lordgeoff

As I said earlier if you install a second input to the boat for 220 DIRECT to your battery charger you have most needs covered. The same 220 line coming to your battery charger can have a dual 220 V socket which you run to a power board below and run local EURO heaters kettle microwave etc..whatever if you wish. The only issue is your water heater which may need adapting. For cooking gas is the best. You can carry plenty of local gas with local adaptor fittings. Not hard to gravity drain whatever local gas bottle you get your hand on into your US or whatever gas bottle.
My boat is 110V (US) if I wanted to use the same input and run 220V it is not a biggie to adapt.
Believer in KISS.

KISS is the word of the day here too. Since we already have the 220v direct into the charger, putting in a terminal strip and a 220 outlet will do it. This is what I'll do.

Good advice all around.

Thanks, guys. TJ

[savoir]

These are the yellow transformers that boatman mentioned. To avoid overheating you have to keep their wattage below the max so for this model I'm guessing 1500w or so from a heater should work. The manufacturer recommends a continuous load of 50% capacity or 1650 watts.

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