Mahe 36: Rig and Sails

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Bob,
Just use some 10 or 12 inches of duct tape of reasonable quality, the type with cloth in it. Stick the 2 lines on it in the duct tape's length, with the ends just touching, wrap the duct tape around them.
I also used the same system for replacing the halyard and the reefing lines with pilot lines for the winter, to put the lines in the washing machine. cold or slightly warm program, some washing powder, do not use fabric softener)

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by Seastream

All:

Looking for best method to replace the main/jib halyards which are 'in mast' at one point, emerging at masthead.
Bob

I would thread a smaller diameter messenger line through your existing halyards end.
Pull the messenger all the way through and tie off.
Measure your existing halyard.
Buy new halyard.
Thread messenger line through new halyard end.
Pull messenger liner until halyard is back in factory position.
Remove messenger line.

[Cotemar]

Jef was posting at the same time I was. Use Jefs method.

[DtM]

In a past life I was a yacht rigger. Do not use the tape method.

Sew a loop into the end of the halyard and then pull a VB cord mouse through as you pull the halyard out. then measure as Cotemar suggests. then sew a loop into the end of the new halyard and pull the mouse back through.

That will work for the jib but the mainsail is tied at the masthead in a two to one system so you will have to climb up there and then follow the process above.

[MKB53]

Hi All
After lots of discussion with other local owners and sailmakers I am eventually getting around to a spinnaker and have pretty much settled on an A2 (Deep running asym). The word I am getting from most is not to use a furler, rather a sock. The rationale is that the fuller sail is prone to furling badly and/or damage over time. I gather the standard Spi-Furl worked pretty well. I guess that is a flatter reaching spinnaker? I have the standard Gennaker for close reaching hence the fuller bag.
Any comments would be appreciated.
martin

[rabbi]

Originally Posted by MKB53

Hi All
After lots of discussion with other local owners and sailmakers I am eventually getting around to a spinnaker and have pretty much settled on an A2 (Deep running asym). The word I am getting from most is not to use a furler, rather a sock. The rationale is that the fuller sail is prone to furling badly and/or damage over time. I gather the standard Spi-Furl worked pretty well. I guess that is a flatter reaching spinnaker? I have the standard Gennaker for close reaching hence the fuller bag.
Any comments would be appreciated.
martin

Not having any personal experience all I can say is what I hear from friends that have furler and sock:
For a flat sail it's OK, the flatter the better. The furler costs more than a decent sock. Also many sailors do not take the sail down too often with a furler, so it wears faster, is a risk in a strong breeze and overall costs again more money.

Fuller sails tend to create bubbles, especially when furling in a hurry and/or in a breeze. these bubbles can open up in a stronger breeze

The sock in contrary works nicely, but you have to take it down every time. More hassle, but no UV damage. We plan to buy an asym spi next season, and that will be with a sock.

In case you want to go the furling route: my boat came with an unused, factory provided profurl EC1500 drum and swivel, but no sail for it :-(
So it's waiting in the pile of stuff that goes towards ebay.

[MKB53]

Thanks for that feedback, it confirms what I have been told. I have a factory Gennaker on a continuous line furler which works well but it is a fairly flat sail. Even then you need to look out for loose sections in the leach. As you said they can open in stronger winds.
And yes, the last 30cm of the leach is very faded compared to the body of the sail from being left up too often when we are in an anchorage.

[wongai64]

Originally Posted by DtM

In a past life I was a yacht rigger. Do not use the tape method.

Sew a loop into the end of the halyard and then pull a VB cord mouse through as you pull the halyard out. then measure as Cotemar suggests. then sew a loop into the end of the new halyard and pull the mouse back through.

That will work for the jib but the mainsail is tied at the masthead in a two to one system so you will have to climb up there and then follow the process above.

Hi Dtm

I was hoping you could share your rigging experience with me?

I posted in a new thread about sheave replacement for my Belize 43.

Can this be done without removing the mast ? The rigger who checked out my boat seems to think it's the best option?

Thanks


Once freedom has exploded in the soul of a man, the gods have no more power over him -
Jean-Paul Sartre

[DtM]

I must say that I agree with the poster on your thread that if the sheaves are that worn that maybe pulling the rig is a sensible thing to do.
Pulling a deck stepped rig is pretty easy and you can check a whole lot out while it is on the dock that is much more time consuming if it is in the air.
The mast head (if it needs to be removed) will not doubt jam and be difficult to remove. That is a very time consuming job in the air.
Does your rigger have access to the correct size crane and wharf space to lay your mast out to work on it.
Good chance to consider replacing standing rigging as well.


Good luck

[wongai64]

Thanks DtM
It seems the best solution over all.. The rigger has crane and wharf access so it shouldn't be too difficult ?

Yes.. I'll replace the standing rigging at the same time .. Thinking Dynex is looking good.


Once freedom has exploded in the soul of a man, the gods have no more power over him -
Jean-Paul Sartre

[Seastream]

Anyone know how the jibsheet blocks on the cabintop are removed? One of the cheeks is missing on mine so thought I'd replace them both.

[captainjay]

Originally Posted by Seastream

Anyone know how the jibsheet blocks on the cabintop are removed? One of the cheeks is missing on mine so thought I'd replace them both.

Pull the rubber boot back and you will see a pin and spring compress the spring and pull the pin.

Jay

[tpkas]

I really liked the idea of a parachute as a downwind sail so I thought I'd give it a go. The photo shows the 26' chute with the boat still on the mooring and only about 5 kts of breeze to see how it would set. Seems relatively simple to set and stable once up. I tied a line between the top and bottom set of rigging lines to prevent the chute from elongating and putting too much stress on one pair of panels. Next step of course will be actually sailing with it ...😱

[Toys_with_time]

Originally Posted by tpkas

I really liked the idea of a parachute as a downwind sail so I thought I'd give it a go. The photo shows the 26' chute with the boat still on the mooring and only about 5 kts of breeze to see how it would set. Seems relatively simple to set and stable once up. I tied a line between the top and bottom set of rigging lines to prevent the chute from elongating and putting too much stress on one pair of panels. Next step of course will be actually sailing with it ...😱

We found getting it up easy. Getting it down was another story but have repaired it and had a stiff drink and now just need the courage to try it again. We did manage 9 knots in 20 knots apparent though!

TwT

[Rufduck]

Hi all,
I've finished all the conversions (except the radio reprogramming to US) and One World (2007 Mahe 36) is speaking English, well at least American. Off on a sailing adventure here in our home waters, the lovely San Juan Islands of NW US.
The boat came with a Yankee jib, pinhead main, an ASym spinnaker and a drifter (a light weight furling down wind sail flown off the sprit). It really lacked some punch in the 40-90 AWA (apparent wind angle) range.
I kept an aging screecher made by North Sail from the Corsair F31R race boat I sold. Today I bent it on using a spare Harken single line drum furler with swivel. It is perhaps 3 feet short on the hoist but for a 15 year old sail, I could not ask for more. It appears to be a perfect mate for the Yankee, maintaining nearly the same gap at the exit as at the entrance and I'm delighted at how it pulls.
Now, I just wish I'd kept the old spare Corsair flat head, all carbon, full batten main.
To think, a Mahe with carbon and Kevlar string laminate sails...my Corsair friends are keeping a close watch on their racing sails and, No, I haven't topped 20 knots...yet. (Truth be told, I'll be glad to see 10 knots in less than a hurricane). Stay tuned and I'll share what breaks.
Btw, it goes up, comes down and furls flawlessly and even sheets to the aft spinnaker blocks.
Cheers,
Martyn
Ps, Linda went below to take a nap and I flew the above in earnest. 90 deg AWA at 9-10 kn true wind and 1 kn favorable current gave 8.4 kn over the ground on both gps. I'm pleased with that on a fully loaded cat.
I just have to get over doing things quickly (let alone efficiently).
Cheers