Mahe 36: Rig and Sails

[DtM]

I am with you on getting a symmetric chute for DDW or close.

We have installed the blocks for it on the bows.

[MKB53]

There are so many places on the East Coast (Aus) where the prevailing wind is straight up the clacker! It is a real pain when all you have is a reaching sail. I have spoken to 2 guys with Bahias who have them and swear by them.

Next on th eshopping list.

Did you need to re-inforce the bow at all? Nod says no need.

Martin

[DtM]

The bow turning blocks had pretty serious timber/fibreglass pads installed under the deck. Beasho's recommendation.

Better safe than sorry I would have thought.

We are looking for a second hand 1oz or maybe 1.2 oz symmetric chute.

[DtM]

The weight of the sail clothe is partly because of the weight of the boat.

[MKB53]

The comments I forgot to make are:

The standard gennaker (or any light downwind sail) does not have a UV strip. You can't leave it up permanently because of this and also the fact that the top section does not always wrap very tight and it can open small sections in a very strong wind (30Kts).

However with the contyinuous furler you can leave that rigged and it is quite easy and quick to rig for day sails.

I find the combination of gennaker and jib quite good and just need a Sym Chute.

Cheers

Originally Posted by 1rkghost

Im currently considering getting a gennaker, screecher or code zero. I want something i can keep up and deploy whenever without the set up time. I have the spifurl with factnor 2500 furler and its fine for long passages but takes time to set up and take down for shorter trips which are mostly what we do. Doyle sails is recommending a screecher with seldon continous furler $$4100 US because it will sail higher than Spi giving more range but less help down wind. Mack sails is reccomending code zero because they believe the screecher and genoa overlap in same range and code zero will give me more downwind options for about same price.

Any thoughts or suggestions anyone using either of these options or different ideas and does the pricing they quoted sound in line?

[DtM]

We thought about getting a sock made for the gennaker so that it could stay permanently rigged.

Will let you know.

[want2cruise]

Originally Posted by 1rkghost

Has anyone replaced their stack pack mine is seen its last days two nice sized tears where lines meet battens. Probably beyond repair. Also un related question Im looking for an easy to single hand down wind sail for day sailing. Id like something to use for short trips day sails mainly that wont take long to set up as im usually only out for a few hours.

We just finished making our own lazybag and while it saved us a considerable amount of money, it was not quite as easy as anticipated. nevertheless it ended up being better than the original one as we made a few improvements. a few pictures here: The new lazy bag | Catamaran Life

[1rkghost]

Can anyone tell me what type of block they are using for main halyard. We have one that swivels and if we arent vigilant when raising the sail it twists as we hoist. Looking to see what everyone else is using before buying just any fixed block.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by 1rkghost

Can anyone tell me what type of block they are using for main halyard. We have one that swivels and if we arent vigilant when raising the sail it twists as we hoist. Looking to see what everyone else is using before buying just any fixed block.

1rkghost,
Are you talking about the lower swivel halyard block on the mast?
If so, then here is the info you need for that.

Z Spars mast block #288 size 80mm $86 usd. Used on the main sail halyard
In USA purchase from www.usspars.com
In UK purchase from www.zsparsuk.com

[1rkghost]

No im talking about the block a the head of the sail

[Toys_with_time]

Originally Posted by 1rkghost

No im talking about the block a the head of the sail

I wouldn't recommend you change to a fixed block as reckon you need the swivel to help it align on different points of sail. We have the same problem but have solved it by the person at the mast, after they have shackled the halyard to the sail, holding onto the cheeks of the block as the tension is taken up on the halyard then as it gets out of reach pulling down on the luff of the sail until enough sail is up to add some weight. This keeps the halyard under tension and stops it twisting.

If I'm on my own I use one hand to tension the sail and the other to raise the halyard pulling it out of the exit box and standing on the rope when I have to change grip.

None of the above is pretty but it works. Prior to this I had a problem one time when I hoisted the main with a twist in the halyard which jammed at the top and the sail wouldn't lower so am now much more careful. I did change the FP provided halyard for a much better quality rope after hearing about 2 boats that had their halyards part at the top.

If anyone else has worked out a better method for stopping the problem would love to hear it.

TwT

[Oliver66]

Originally Posted by 1rkghost

No im talking about the block a the head of the sail

Here is the one I have:
70 carbon from harken, combined with Wichard HR "lock"; very happy with this system...

[1rkghost]

Yes thats roughly what i have been doing but was hoping someone had better solution. Also thought changing the halyard might help because im sure ours has some memory adding to twist. My neighbor has Seawind he suggested changing the block to fixed.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by 1rkghost

No I'm talking about the block a the head of the sail

That is a Lewmar 72 mm Synchro Block.

These blocks can be fixed or swiveled with the lock button

[DtM]

and you should lock it.

Our lock broke and we then had your twisting problem.

We jammed some cut up plastic hose into the locking mechanism to hold it in place and no more problem.