Mahe 36: Engines

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by tpkas

Does anyone know the specifications of the coolant temperature sensor (diameter and thread) for the Volvo D1-20 ?

I'm thinking of replacing the one connected to the EVC with an aftermarket sender that has both a variable resistance (for a gauge) and switch (for an alarm). The Volvo options are a bit pricey and while the idea of using the wireless BBQ temp monitor appeals, I think I'd prefer a couple of permanently wired gauges.

You maybe interested in how Edmund did his temp gage upgrade if you do not want to use the $30 usd wireless BBQ temp monitors.

Edmund purchased the Volvo EVC engine instruments and it was plug and play.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1018693

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1027205

[tpkas]

I was aware how Edmund did his but he came across second hand gauges. If you price the new ones plus the bezel kit plus the mounting kit plus the cable ... it adds up.

I'd also considered the TM4 and that remains my second preference.(I'd mount the display at the nav station in stead of at the helm).

There are a couple of nice 52mm (2") gauges and senders on eBay and as long as the thread for the sender is compatible with the engine it will not only save quite a bit but will look "right" as well.

So, anyone know the diameter and pitch of the coolant sender thread that is fitted as standard ?... remember .... they really are just old rebadged Perkins engines ... Someone must know.

Regards,

Brian

[Cotemar]

Have not seen any Mahe owner change or measure the Coolant Temp sensor.

You may have to pull your sensor and measure the diameter and pitch and post back to us for future use.

This info may help.

Volvo Penta D1-20 or D1-30 Coolant temp sensor

827151 Temperature sensor
947624 Gasket

[tpkas]

Thanks for that Cotemar. As it has a gasket at least I know it's not a tapered thread. I'll report back when (if !!??) I get to the bottom of it.

Regards,

Brian

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

I know sensors exist in 14*1.25 and 14*1.5 metric. But of course other sizes may also exist.
14*1.25 is the same size as standard old-fashioned spark plugs.

[1rkghost]

I just cleaned my fuel prefilters but does any one know how to prime them? I fill them up almost full when i reinstalled them but i cant get them to prime.

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Just do a lot of pumping on the hand pump on the engine, and let the air out at the engine, 10 mm spanner close to the hand pump, just open half a turn. Hold a tissue at hand.
I'd suggest cleaning the filter at yearly intervals. Maybe also a nice idea to change the fine fule filter at the engine at the same moment? Some years ago I posted which car filter you can use, Toyota Landcruiser or some Mitsubishi, don't remember.

[Cotemar]

This may help with your fuel priming.

[1rkghost]

Well ive found i have pretty bad algea problem in my fuel tank. Any suggestions its been recommended that i remove the fuel tank to clean it.

[Cotemar]

The wall in the Stb. rear stateroom is removable. Two binder straps hold the tank in place.

Two fuel feed and two fuel return hoses and the fill hose would have to be removed. Also the tank fill gage wire would need to be unplugged.

Would not be hard to remove the tank as long as the fuel was empty.

The picture of the Mahe fuel tank below is from under the galley sink.

[tpkas]

My water temp gauge issue has been resolved!

To buy the original Volvo gauges and mounting kit in Oz was going to cost just over $350 and so I was looking for an alternative. The coolant hose that goes into the heat exchanger has a 16mm internal diameter and I found a hose insert with temperature sensor mounted for $29 (http://www.trailtech.net/7500-3041.html)
and it would couple with any standard gauge for a cost of approx $70 per side so about $140 total for the 2 engines and still a less than optimum installation.

Then, and quite by chance, I found a fantastic website in the UK

Coastal Rides - Discounted Boat Parts & Marine Engines Sterndrives Pumps & Motors

They had the Volvo gauges (part number 874904 for the black face) for only GBP 15 each!! I had 2 of them sent to me and they were delivered within 7 days for a total cost of GBP 63 ... about Aus$100.(postage was more than the cost of the gauges!) Picked up 2 mounting kits locally for $27 (part number 874709).

Two holes in the dash, plug them in and hey presto ... coolant gauges! Total cost about $130 .... I couldn't be happier!

A word of warning ... before you drill any holes be aware that the gauge connecting harness is relatively short which means the coolant gauge can't be positioned very far from the tacho.

Thank you to all that replied to my questions regarding alternate strategies.

[vayacondios]

Something weird is going on with our engine tachometers. I've specifically tested them so I know I'm not imagining this.
The gauges should be showing different engine hours yet they keep matching up. A couple of times now I have deliberately used one engine (starboard) and the engine hours are two hour different. Yet if I start and run the port engine it catches up to match the starboard in hours. Like I will keep the starboard one going its two hours ahead of the port yet the other will catch up.

Have you heard of this happening??
Thanks
Rozzie

[DtM]

That is truly strange.

As a matter of interest (and unrelated to your "issue") how many hours do you have on your engines?

[vayacondios]

We have about 950 engine hours.

[MKB53]

Wierd problem with the hour guages, never come across that before.

I have a problem in that the clear plastic on my guages is going slowly opaque and it is very hard to read the hours. I tried cleaning inside and out but it is actually opaque not dirty.

Anyone have any special remedy for this?

Cheers
Martin