Longer wire for windlass remote?

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by jaybird1111

There ya go, thanks!

Hadn't even thought of that... I'll go look, but at first thought I'm thinking that some of that electrical potting gel stuff might reduce the disposability?

We have been using a "Quick" wireless remote on our Maxwell Windlass since 2006. The unit has proven to be very reliable and quite robust. While it was available when we installed our Windlass, a similar Maxwell wireless remote control is now available at somewhat less cost. We do have a wired hand held controller (in lieu of foot switches) as well which we plug in whenever we need the windlass but we have rarely ever needed he device.

FWIW...

[colemj]

I just looked at the Maxwell remote link you provided. That looks exactly like the $12 one I bought, only mine doesn't have "Maxwell" written on it!

I'm sure the Maxwell is better quality, and may even really be waterproof, but it does cost over 20x more.

Mark

[jaybird1111]

Originally Posted by rwidman

It was just a suggestion. I was just trying to help.

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to come across as aggravated at you. I appreciate the advice - just disgusted with the $200 controller and THEN a $5-700 receiver on top of that, although there are latter suggestions in the thread for far less.

That said, even the cheaper 'marine' (the suggested Maxwell) is far more than the also-suggested truck winch wireless controls. Geez...

thank you all for these suggestions, they are appreciated

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by colemj

I just looked at the Maxwell remote link you provided. That looks exactly like the $12 one I bought, only mine doesn't have "Maxwell" written on it!

I'm sure the Maxwell is better quality, and may even really be waterproof, but it does cost over 20x more.

Mark

Where we sail, certainty about one's on-deck electrics gear being water proof is absolutely necessary. Remember the adage "Penny Wise..."

Different Ships, Different Long Splices, eh?

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by rwidman

You will need to know how many conductors are in the cable and what size (gauge) they are. You will need to know how you will connect the wires at each end (solder, screw, crimp, etc.) and how you will seal them from water intrusion.

Have you considered buying and installing a wireless remote instead of modifying your existing wired remote? I don't have or need one but some people really like them.

[Cheechako]

I made my remotes out of crane controls bought at McMaster Carr. I cant remember exactly what wire I used, but it wasn't difficult to figure... just needed to be good quality, heavy gage and flexible.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by svHyLyte

Where we sail, certainty about one's on-deck electrics gear being water proof is absolutely necessary. Remember the adage "Penny Wise..."

Different Ships, Different Long Splices, eh?

Yeah, I had reservations about these and got them on a whim at $12 - but everything is installed below decks in dry areas, not on-deck or even in a locker. It does depend on where your reversing solenoid is located - ours is located in a machinery cabinet where if water ever found itself there, we would lose our inverter, charger, refrigeration and AC. But even if the solenoid was in a wet place, there is no reason the remote box has to be located there too. Just run a wire from a dry place.

Besides, the control box itself is completely sealed - it's only the remote unit that I have doubts about being fully immersible. For that, it comes with 2 controls for that $12, so if one goes there is another, and extra controls only cost $3.

Mark

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by colemj

.......... It does depend on where your reversing solenoid is located - .........

Speaking of reversing solenoids (often called "contactors"), If your windlass uses one, the wires to the remote will be relatively small. If not, they will be pretty heavy gauge. That's why I mentioned wire size in my previous response.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by rwidman

Speaking of reversing solenoids (often called "contactors"), If your windlass uses one, the wires to the remote will be relatively small. If not, they will be pretty heavy gauge. That's why I mentioned wire size in my previous response.

Yeah, I wondered about that. The wires to ours are maybe 20g? Very small. So small as to be difficult. I hate small wires.

Mark

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by colemj

Yeah, I had reservations about these and got them on a whim at $12 - but everything is installed below decks in dry areas, not on-deck or even in a locker. It does depend on where your reversing solenoid is located - ours is located in a machinery cabinet where if water ever found itself there, we would lose our inverter, charger, refrigeration and AC. But even if the solenoid was in a wet place, there is no reason the remote box has to be located there too. Just run a wire from a dry place.

Besides, the control box itself is completely sealed - it's only the remote unit that I have doubts about being fully immersible. For that, it comes with 2 controls for that $12, so if one goes there is another, and extra controls only cost $3.

Mark

Mark--If $12 USD is the cost of both the transmitters ("key fobs") and the receiver, and replacement key fobs are only $3 USD, that's a heck of a deal (although I would question the prospective longevity and I'd hate to have them fail just when one needed them). Assuming you could seal the key fob is a vacuum pack bag however, the weather conditions would be less of an issue. The Maxwell link I posted earlier includes the transmitter, the receiver and all that's necessary to connect same to the reversing solenoid on the windlass (all of which are located below decks on our own boat). The Maxwell key fobs float and are IP67 waterproof rated. Please note, however, that our system is the "Quick" rather than Maxwell but with similar ratings. We also have the key fob/transmitters on lanyards that clip onto ones belt or web-gear so they don't go adrift if one is working in extreme conditions ob deck which, fortunately, we've only had to do on a few rare occasions (knock in wood!).

[colemj]

Originally Posted by svHyLyte

Mark--If $12 USD is the cost of both the transmitters ("key fobs") and the receiver, and replacement key fobs are only $3 USD, that's a heck of a deal (although I would question the prospective longevity and I'd hate to have them fail just when one needed them).

That's what I paid for them. If they fail just when I need them, I will simply stomp on the wired foot switches, or grab the wired remote.

Mark

[poiu]

I've just replaced my Lewmar deck switches that failed after 2 years. IP69 or whatever. They still failed. My 2 yr old Chinese wireless winch remotes are going strong, with much more utility and a quarter the cost. It's hard to judge adequate quality.

If in doubt about weatherproofing many components like this can be potted and IP-ed very easily and cheaply with a small bag of compound.

[montenido]

Hi folks,
I bought a wireless set up for my Maxwell windlass last year. I was unable to make it work, as the directions were virtually nonexistent. The boat is in Mexico, but I will make another attempt when I go there soon.

Can anyone post how they wired theirs? I have just the up and down foot switches.

Thanks, Bill

[colemj]

Generally, there is a wireless box with several wires coming out of it.

Red=+12V
Black=-12V
another wire connects to the up terminal of your windlass solenoid control
another wire connects to the down terminal of your windlass solenoid control

You will need to figure out which of those "another" are which. The worse that can happen is that you connect them backwards and the control buttons work opposite than you expect. Just swap them around if this happens.

There may be another wire that is the antenna. This doesn't connect to anything.

Mark

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by montenido

Hi folks,

I bought a wireless set up for my Maxwell windlass last year. I was unable to make it work, as the directions were virtually nonexistent. The boat is in Mexico, but I will make another attempt when I go there soon.



Can anyone post how they wired theirs? I have just the up and down foot switches.



Thanks, Bill

If you only have foot switches, there is a good chance that they're full current switches,meaning you at not have the required solenoid box to attach the wireless remote too. Either post a picture of the underside of your foot switch of you're not sure or post a pic of your solenoid box (if you have one) and a pic of the remote receiver for wiring help.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum