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Old 20-04-2010, 18:47   #1
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Splicing Small Diameter Rope

I have been asked to do some splicing in small diameter rope, specifically 4mm Spectra core, Dacron cover, double braid. I am reasonably competent with both a standard double braid splice and a Spectra splice, but I find splicing very hard in anything smaller than about 6mm (1/4"). Obviously, since the strength is in the Spectra core, I could just do locked Brummel splices, but if possible I want to retain the cover on the splices to provide UV protection for the Spectra

I have got mysellf a piece of 3mm O.D x 2mm ID tube, about 250mm long, and with some fishing line intend to try to impovise a splicing wand (a la Brion Toss), but I'm not entirely sure how I will go with that.

Are there any tips and tricks that will help me get the splicing done without too much wailing and gnashing of teeth?
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Old 20-04-2010, 19:27   #2
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You really should be doing a core to core splice no matter what diameter the line is.
Perhaps these videos will help.


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Old 20-04-2010, 19:37   #3
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Thanks. What I call a "Spectra splice" is what you call a "core to core splice". I can do them just fine, but splicing gets trickier as diameter gets smaller (3/8" or 1/2" is my favourite line to splice). I know how to do the splices, its just the 5/32" rope is hard
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Old 21-04-2010, 00:09   #4
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What about a racking seizing? Not fancy enough?
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Old 21-04-2010, 02:14   #5
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G'DAy Patrick,

What I do (unless it is a very high load application, in which case I punt) is make a stitched eye, and then put a very tight seizing over the stitched area. I don't have the means to destructively test such a splice, but I think that they are pretty strong. I'd be interested to have real data if anyone can supply it.

Cheers,

Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II lying Lake Macquarie, NSW, Oz
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Old 21-04-2010, 02:31   #6
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Keep trying .
I recently did some 6 mm Spectra (core to core) and the first couple were difficult compared with larger lines. I don't envy you with 4 mm. I reckon you are on the right track in getting or making suitable fids; they will be the key.
Good luck and let us all know how you finally achieve a result.
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Old 21-04-2010, 06:02   #7
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I've been doing a lot of splicing recently, and came up with a similar problem in that some of the lines had no intermediate layer and were just far too tight to perform a complete splice. There is a splice used for small line and tight lines which does not re-bury the cover but has it run up along the splice and it is whipped and cut off. This works really well for lines such as yours where the core carries the load. I can't seem to search Google very well today, the only examples I can find are in German. These German instructions have pictures which illustrate the splice I mean.
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Old 21-04-2010, 15:43   #8
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The same instruction set (from Liros) but in English:
http://www.deckhardware.com.au/tech_...ed%20Ropes.pdf
This is, essentially, the eye-splice that I use with Spectra.
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Old 21-04-2010, 15:55   #9
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Tager's suggestion is a good one. I often use two round seizings in line to make an eye [or whatever], especially with braided line. I once put a round seized eye in a wire forestay, at sea, intending it to be temporary. The temporary turned out to be a couple of years and many thousand miles later. Round seizings really work.
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Old 21-04-2010, 16:40   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cate View Post
G'DAy Patrick,

What I do (unless it is a very high load application, in which case I punt) is make a stitched eye, and then put a very tight seizing over the stitched area. I don't have the means to destructively test such a splice, but I think that they are pretty strong. I'd be interested to have real data if anyone can supply it.

Cheers,

Jim and Ann s/v Insatiable II lying Lake Macquarie, NSW, Oz
If you are genuinely keen, I can supply you with a test piece of my 4mm Spectra, and you can do your stitched eye and seizing, and I will (try to) make a core-to-core spliced test piece with rope from the same reel, and a locked brummel, and maybe a 3rd piece with a bowline and maybe even a racking seizing test piece as well. I can then test them all on a tensile testing machine (I have access to one), and compare the results.
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Old 21-04-2010, 19:38   #11
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A tech at Samson suggested to me to use a doubled up piece of piano wire to pull a line thru rather than pushing it. You just stick the end in where you want the line to come out, and make the wire end pop out where the line needs to go in. then you thread the end of the line thru the doubled up end and pull it thru.
I have made 2 of these tools by bending the piano wire in half, and then sticking the ends thru small holes drilled in the middle of a 4 inch long 3/4 inch dowel which becomes the handle. The first one was easy, but for some reason I had trouble bending the second one double without breaking the wire. I think I then heated it a little.
You have to be careful pushing it thru the center of hollow line because it is so small and wants to pierce its way out, but it works well. I think I've made eyesplices in 1/8 inch Amsteel.
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Old 04-05-2010, 19:07   #12
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For what it is worth, with 20-20 hindsight, I don't know why I was worrying about. It was really very easy - way easier than I anticipated. I was really stressing about whehter it was gonna work (and I had promiced a chap that I would do the job), but the reality was that it wasn't any harder than a core-to-core splice in 10mm (3/8").

The secret, for me, was the 3mm (1/8") tube and fishing line, instead of a fid. The splices worked out real neat. Tonight I will whip them, and Robert will be your mother's brother.
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