Elegant Reefing Solutions

[Cheechako]

Elegant and easy is a downhaul line through the tack cringle to a cleat on the mast side, or a reefing horn or hook

[JustMurph]

I made a simple dynema loop for each of my reefs, that goes through the reef cringle, then around each side of the horns. They're made to the right length for each reef and clearly marked with the reef they're for with black permanent marker (e.g. 2 bands = 2nd reef).

Very quick and easy to put on and take off. Strong. Simple. Probably the only downside is that you could lose one if you don't store it carefully. That hasn't been an issue yet. I suppose it's only a 5 minute job to make a new one if you did.

[s/v Jedi]

Hmmm… nobody using a Cunningham?! I always use a a Cunningham, it’s regularly called “reef zero”.

For the simplest solution using no additional hardware at all and works like a dream: take a short piece of Dyneema with polyester cover (Warpspeed) and tie a bowline around the boom/gooseneck. Take the other end up, through the cringle and down on the other side, straight to a mast winch. Winch it down to trim the sail, done.

Reefing: take Cunningham out of sail, making the winch available for the halyard. Put halyard on winch and lower the sail until the reefing mark on the halyard is at the clutch, then close clutch and take halyard off the winch. Pull the leech reefing line tight, then around the same mast winch again (have no fancy reefing winch) and crank down the leech. Secure reefing line with jammer in the boom, removing it from the winch. Take Cunningham up, through reef one cringle and down to winch and crank to trim the sail.

I am going to make one change and that is the leech reefing line (untested but other boats use similar system): make reefing line from two parts: first is thin diameter uncovered Dyneema with eye splices at each end (dog bone). Hitch it around the boom (like a lasso) then up, through the reef cringle then back down to the aft end of the boom, through the sheave and inside the boom through the center of a low friction ring that is spliced onto the end of the 2nd part, then secure the end eye splice with a lashing to a pin/shaft that goes through the boom (or mount a pad eye on the inside). Now the 2nd part is Warpspeed of a diameter that fits the jammer in the front of the boom. It is stripped for the part that is spliced around the low friction ring.

You pull the reefing line into a loop inside the boom as the low friction ring is pulled forward in the boom. This halves the length of line to handle, but doubles the force required to pull the sail down, which is no problem for us.

We have a fully battened, loose footed mainsail.

[JustMurph]

So while we're talking about reefing, what would be the normal method for securing the leach, for reefs where you don't have a line running to the leech cringle?

For example, on mine and my mates cats there are three reefs, but only two sheaves for reefs in the back of the boom. On my boat I have reefs 2 and 3 hooked up and just never use 1. On my mates boat 1 and 2 are hooked up. How would you secure the leach for reef 3? Looks like whatever you do it's going to be hard to access and somewhat dangerous given the sea state you can expect if you're going to reef three.

Is the best approach to do what I've done and have the reefing lines running to 2 and 3 and manually secure the first reef if you really want it?

[citlab]

Originally Posted by DefinitelyMe

Thanks. Yes, I know many people are great fans of single-line reefing systems but I'm not I'm afraid. I find them too temperamental. Too many components that all have to work perfectly or nothing does and they lack versatility.

The 1990 Dehler 34 had a simple 1 line system. Worked everytime flawlessly from the cockpit. All others I've seen since have been unnecessariiy complicated for the size of the boat, Too many blocks when not necessary. Could be different for a 50footer.

[wholybee]

Originally Posted by JustMurph

So while we're talking about reefing, what would be the normal method for securing the leach, for reefs where you don't have a line running to the leech cringle?

For example, on mine and my mates cats there are three reefs, but only two sheaves for reefs in the back of the boom. On my boat I have reefs 2 and 3 hooked up and just never use 1. On my mates boat 1 and 2 are hooked up. How would you secure the leach for reef 3? Looks like whatever you do it's going to be hard to access and somewhat dangerous given the sea state you can expect if you're going to reef three.

Is the best approach to do what I've done and have the reefing lines running to 2 and 3 and manually secure the first reef if you really want it?

Not elegant and probably not the best way, but works well for me.

I have a "3rd reef line" tied to the boom at the appropriate place. It's about 4' long. When I need the 3rd reef, I lower the sail, ease the 2nd reef just a bit. Then the 3rd reef line goes to through the 3rd reef cringle, and I tie the end with as little slack as I can to the 2nd reef cringle. Then I trim the 2nd reef line again, this time the 3rd reef comes in with it. I don't use the 3rd reef vary often, and it hasn't been much trouble to do this when I have needed it.

[gpshephe]

Originally Posted by marcjsmith

you say elegant and easy. while may take some doing to set up, once set up, a single line slab reefing can be set up to run the lines back to the cockpit, so no one even has to go to the mast (easy). and if done right most all of the lines can be hidden inside the boom (elegant) and if you don't want to run the lines back to the cockpit, then you can leave them at the mast.


yes it does fail the "no down haul" part of the test.



personally i would think grabbing a line in the comfort of the cockpit rather than having to deal with cringle hooks or strops/toggles would outweigh the downside of having a down haul...

Thanks for the diagram. Love it when folks enjoin and talk about their complicated rigging fix without diagram or pics.

[wesevans]

I have had and done time at sea with most the reefing systems from lazy jacks to boom reefing. From my experience I much prefer in the in mast roller furling for cruising. Sails can be handled from cockpit. Trim and furling are easy so are done when needed or anticipated not delayed until necessary or too late.

[Ekeno]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Hmmm… nobody using a Cunningham?! I always use a a Cunningham, it’s regularly called “reef zero”.

For the simplest solution using no additional hardware at all and works like a dream: take a short piece of Dyneema with polyester cover (Warpspeed) and tie a bowline around the boom/gooseneck. Take the other end up, through the cringle and down on the other side, straight to a mast winch. Winch it down to trim the sail, done.

Reefing: take Cunningham out of sail, making the winch available for the halyard. Put halyard on winch and lower the sail until the reefing mark on the halyard is at the clutch, then close clutch and take halyard off the winch. Pull the leech reefing line tight, then around the same mast winch again (have no fancy reefing winch) and crank down the leech. Secure reefing line with jammer in the boom, removing it from the winch. Take Cunningham up, through reef one cringle and down to winch and crank to trim the sail.

I am going to make one change and that is the leech reefing line (untested but other boats use similar system): make reefing line from two parts: first is thin diameter uncovered Dyneema with eye splices at each end (dog bone). Hitch it around the boom (like a lasso) then up, through the reef cringle then back down to the aft end of the boom, through the sheave and inside the boom through the center of a low friction ring that is spliced onto the end of the 2nd part, then secure the end eye splice with a lashing to a pin/shaft that goes through the boom (or mount a pad eye on the inside). Now the 2nd part is Warpspeed of a diameter that fits the jammer in the front of the boom. It is stripped for the part that is spliced around the low friction ring.

You pull the reefing line into a loop inside the boom as the low friction ring is pulled forward in the boom. This halves the length of line to handle, but doubles the force required to pull the sail down, which is no problem for us.

We have a fully battened, loose footed mainsail.

Dear S/V JEDI.- can you send a diagram of your solution?
Best regards.
Ekeno

[Mad Multi]

Originally Posted by AKA-None

Not a fan of single line reefing but a two line system works pretty well

I was not a fan of single line reefing systems until... I stitched quality blocks onto the sail at the reef points and went to a small Guage dyneema line for the reef lines. I then marked my main halyard at the places for a perfect reef where the front blocks would be positioned right above the boom internal blocks, also marked the reef lines.

Now it's a dream even under heavy strain I can easily reef from within the cockpit no guessing no finicky jams, just grind the reef line down until the mark on the main halyard is at the clutch and clutch it then grind down until the reef line mark is at the clutch.

[nofacey]

A strop in each reefing eye - never fouled in 5 yrs offshore, gives you something to grab and haul on as the sail comes down. I slipped mine onto a reefing hook, but if that’s unacceptable, then clipping it onto a pad eye works too.
- used on 50 ft cutter, big main.
- granny bars at mast made everything easier/safer

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Ekeno

Dear S/V JEDI.- can you send a diagram of your solution?
Best regards.
Ekeno

It is a simplification of the Selden single line reefing system.

[Lake-Effect]

Such a great thread. Thx to everyone for ideas and diagrams.

For now, on a smaller boat, we're happy with our two-line system.

[Happ]

Originally Posted by marcjsmith

you say elegant and easy. while may take some doing to set up, once set up, a single line slab reefing can be set up to run the lines back to the cockpit, so no one even has to go to the mast (easy). and if done right most all of the lines can be hidden inside the boom (elegant) and if you don't want to run the lines back to the cockpit, then you can leave them at the mast.


yes it does fail the "no down haul" part of the test.



personally i would think grabbing a line in the comfort of the cockpit rather than having to deal with cringle hooks or strops/toggles would outweigh the downside of having a down haul...

That’s the setup I would go with. As to the no down haul there are 2 possible solutions. Add an adjustable down haul as separate or have the head of the main trimmed down a few inches and use the main halyard as the down haul.

In order for all this to work in the cockpit you need to run the halyard back to the cockpit and mark the halyard so you know when the halyard is eased enough at each reef point. For the reefing lines the new Restrictor Clutcj=he’s are awesome. They were used on all the newer IMOCA 60’s that were sailed nonstop around the world SINGLEHANDED!

[ssMakai]

I short handed, 2 persons, crossed the pond on a 43ft slocum. First short handed rule never leave the cockpit unless absolutely necessary, second short handed rule reef early reef deeply, third rule keep dry means keep away from the mast. So use 2 lines/reef, Cunningham's at the mast. This way you can down haul the main to the mark and then tighten on the main. Never once had to leave the cockpit across the pond when reefing.