Tracking down a bilge leak

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Sorry if this has been suggested before but if your bilge pump has a back flow valve to stop the water from leaking back into the bilge, check it. Sometimes that just keeps the pump working on and off.

You, I and zeehag.

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by pcmm

While, you are working this water issue, I would disconnect any pressure city water that you might be connected to. If you have a faulty regulator it can be very dangerous! When those things fail, they sink boats! Personally I've removed the "City water" connection from every boat I've owned just because of the number that I have seen fail over the years. Every time resulting in substantial damage to the boat!

[puffcard]

Everything said is good. Freshwater from water tanks will not sink a boat, freshwater from AC or city source can and saltwater is the biggest concern. Best way to test all streams coming to the bilge is to taste it. Watch the bilge during the pump cycling. Is there a chance after the pump stops, it's just back flowing into the bilge?

[seabreez]

Originally Posted by RKsailsolo

How often should your bilge pump run before you need to track down the source?

i just put in for season two and cleaned out all bilge areas and lubricated all seacocks with Marelon from the outside before the boat got wet. Now the bilge runs every 35 minutes for 45 seconds to remove water from an unknown source.

Two questions from this...

1) the lowest part of the bilge appears to be the small well where the bilge pump sits. Lloks to me like all drainage goes to that point either via a drainage hose from shower or sink or AC condensate or a laminated ditch/tunnel in the hull. Is there another opening in the bottom of that sump of is the sump just a trough?

2) what is the process used to discover the leak source?

At that rate of infiltration you should be able to dry out the trough and visually see the water coming in. I use a very bright light to see reflection on the water. look for cracked hoses, move them and twist them only with your hand (if it's a hose). Water pump on the engine just behind the pulley... shaft packing... drains from sinks... water tanks... filters... deck fittings (water stains)... mast seals... vhf radio plugs... windows... port holes. Don't be shy to ask someone to hose the boat while you are checking inside...

[skipper53]

I found a loose connection at the water pump while winterizing. One of those quick and convenient plastic tubing connectors. Real convenient.....

[StuM]

Originally Posted by pcmm

While, you are working this water issue, I would disconnect any pressure city water that you might be connected to. If you have a faulty regulator it can be very dangerous! When those things fail, they sink boats! Personally I've removed the "City water" connection from every boat I've owned just because of the number that I have seen fail over the years. Every time resulting in substantial damage to the boat!

+1

Connecting permanently to town pressure water is an accident waiting to happen.

[Alastair A]

Good on ya' "Uncivilized". I agree and use soluble markers. They are golden for me with this sort of investigation. I also use natural food dye sometimes. They are both impermanent and will be gone in a few months after testing. Cheers. A

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Tighten your packing nut

Only if the boat has one and that can be identified as the source of the leak.

[Squanderbucks]

A quick check of the bilge pump output is it simply turn it on and go outside and see if the water stream is strong as it should be. I once picked up a rat in the Bahamas and it chewed a hole in the output hose of the bilge pump. The pump just kept recirculating the water in the bilge.

Most bilge pump switches cut on at a certain water lever like 2" and off at 3/4" and any water in the hose before any one way valve or hump in the line will drain back. I personally don't care for one way valves but prefer a hump in the line before exit. Without something like my earlier description of a separate manually/timer operated small diameter pickup pump there will always be some left by regular bilge pumps. Unless your bilges are made with some type of sump area at it's lowest point - but I don't think many boats have them.

[RKsailsolo]

Squanderbucks (love that name), this is close to my experience regarding the flow back. Just got this boat as dealer demo but with full warranty last fall and little systems documentation exists so its been trial and error for me. As you and others have described it, there may be a certain small volume of water being exchanged with no ingress of new wate, for whatever reason. I need to try some of these ideas today. Thx all.

[RKsailsolo]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

AC testing in Minnesota in Dec. How does that work? It's like 2deg C there (or a lot less)

Boat now located at Burnt Store Marina, Charlotte Harbor FL.

[RKsailsolo]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Your shower goes to the bilge?

No, pumped overboard. But shower is not used. Thx.

[RKsailsolo]

Originally Posted by rwidman

Only if the boat has one and that can be identified as the source of the leak.

Shaft gland is a dripless seal. I burped it and its dry. More here http://jeanneau349.freeforums.net/th...t-gland?page=2

[SJFK]

I found a very small leak in my hull when I was using a head torch, and the light from the torch picked up a water drop that glistened in the light. That then led to a another world of pain, but better it was found and fixed. Since then I sometimes do not switch on the lights, and just use a torch. It is surprising what water you can detect in the more focussed beam of the torch, especially around the seacocks.
Good luck

[RKsailsolo]

Thx sjfk and all others for feedback.

I believe my issue may be a bad check valve somewhere between the pump and the bilge exit port on the hull. How to find that check valve on my particular system is my next task.

Ideas anyone?