Macerator pump service valve

[masonc]

My holding tank is connected to my macerator pump with a 4 inch length of 1.5" hose. In the event I have to change or service the pump, there's no way to do it without spilling the tank contents. I'm looking for a valve to insert into the short hose between the tank and macerator, but I don't see anything listed as suitable. Any ideas?

[peghall]

Replace the 4" hose with a piece long enough to provide enough room to put a shutoff valve on the tank discharge fitting. If possible, move the macerator pump to a higher location...ideally just above the tank, but anywhere that creates an uphill run to it is better than having it below the tank.

[masonc]

Good point. Just bought your book on kindle.
What shut off valve is what i was really asking.

[a64pilot]

There is I believe a new Raritan pump with an included valve. It is what I intend to use.

https://youtu.be/O_UotNYqlSY

[masonc]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

There is I believe a new Raritan pump with an included valve. It is what I intend to use.

I've got three pumps already so I just need to shut it off for impeller changes. I don't know what valve could be coupled to 1 1/2" pipe that would be suitable for sewage use.
Does anyone have a link to a suitable product?

[a64pilot]

I'd go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a PVC ball valve, finding 1.5" barbs to screw into it is going to be tough though, you may have to order them. Whole thing is going to be maybe 8 or 10 inches long though?

[a64pilot]

You could connect the ball valve directly to the tank with a nipple, that may save some length.

[Elie]

Swinming pool stores have the type of large ball valve that you may find usefull. I had done this long time ago. https://www.google.ca/search?q=Swimm...w=1680&bih=941

[masonc]

Originally Posted by Elie

Swinming pool stores have the type of large ball valve that you may find usefull. I had done this long time ago. https://www.google.ca/search?q=Swimm...w=1680&bih=941

I can buy an 1.5" ball valve anywhere, that's not the problem. Ball valves are slip connected, do not connect to flexible hose. I'm going to check if a 1.25" valve with stubs of pipe could be securely fastened to 1.5" sanitary hose, haven't got around to that yet. I've got the valves and pipe in stock, but the hose is on the boat at anchor.

It seems the only production valve suited for this is a three way diverter but I did away with the pump out hose so I don't need one.

[twig]

Correct me if I'm wrong but if I remember correctly when I replaced my tank, hoses and fittings hardware store barb fittings are sized different from sanitation hose.

[Chuck Hawley]

This isn't an answer to the question raised, but it is related. About 15 years ago, I skippered West Marine's Santa Cruz 40, ProMotion, to Santa Cruz Island from Santa Barbara. The boat had a holding tank (always the first place that effluent went), then a Sealand T-12 discharge pump, and a T for the deck discharge. When I took over the boat (and five West Marine associates) I didn't realize that I had a 100% full tank of sewage, and that the previous "team" had tried to pump out the tank with the through hull closed.

The way the Sealand pump is made, it has two "heart" valves that are sort of triangular in cross section and are very unlikely to clog. However, they cannot take pressure from the wrong direction without inverting and staying inverted, which then doesn't allow any "valving" action. The pump can go up and down forever, and the sewage just shuttles back and forth.

The pump was located below the 30 gallon holding tank (did I mention it was full of someone else's waste?) and all of the plumbing was under the sink in the tiny race-boat head.

So, to make a long story short, I had to loosen the hose clamps on the intake the pump, pull off the line from the tank, and cap it with the palm of my hand. Then I took a screwdriver handle and pressed the valve back into shape so that it was "pointing" downstream. I was literally sitting in pools of poo as I reattached the hose to the pump. Incidentally, this was all done outside of Painted Cave at the island, 23 miles from a holding tank pump.

While I was popular with the crew after solving this issue, I was not asked to join them for meals until I had a hot shower and a change of clothes back on shore.

Chuck

[a64pilot]

I have sort of the same issue, at the local Lowe's they sell two different valves, one for solvent welding into PVC pipe and the other threaded for hose bibs or maybe to install with galvanized pipe, but there are valves that are threaded.
I also feel certain if you call Hopkins Carter they will send you what you need

[a64pilot]

There is also this way, a short piece of pipe glued into the valve then this slipped over the short piece of pipe, they also make them that will convert slip to threaded without the short piece of pipe, but I didn't find a picture
https://www.lowes.com/pd/LASCO-1-1-2...dapter/3339826

[masonc]

I think I can get the sanitary pipe over 1 1/4" PVC pipe with a little hot water to help soften the pipe. If so, all I need is a 1 1/4" ball valve and two subs of hard PVC pipe.
This will also give me a solution for my other problem. The discharge pipe goes from the pump to a anti-syphon loop in a cabinet above the vanity (which leaks, lovely), and then back down to the seacock. But, it makes a complete loop to line up with the seacock. Guess where all the effluent collects and permeates?
I want to make two right angles so that the pipe is going directly to the seacock, so two 1 1/4" 90 bends with 1 1/4" PVC subs should allow me to make this all downhill to the seacock. the pipe has to come out of the side of the vanity so two 90's are needed, but I'll connect them with hard 1 1/4" pipe.
I'm going to add a vent to the anti-syphon so it can leak overboard.

[jamhass]

Most of the marine suppliers carry 1-1/2 inch nylon/Marelon marine sanitation valves with NPT threads and a variety of appropriate hose barbs. More expensive than the HD PVC valves, but stronger and longer life.