Partial Heads Conversion

[phil23]

I unfortunately only have the use of one arm fully and wish to do a conversion job on my manual heads. I do not want a electric "dunny" as have had heaps of problems in the past with macerators etc. My main problem is pumping the water into my current heads and my plans was to cut into a line that feeds my fore and aft deck hoses with a "T" fitting and feed raw water directly into my feed line into the manual pump. Would this work, I am presuming that when my manual pump is in the "flush" position it allows water to enter into the bowl and when in the pump position it wont. If this is correct when the electric pump that supplies my deck hoses is "on" and the toilet pump is in "flush" position the bowl wont fill, am I right do you get my drift or am I out of control here. Thanks for all offers of assistance.

[HopCar]

If I understand correctly you want to use a pressurized raw (salt) water line to supply flush water to your toilet but will be using the manual pump to empty the bowl.

I wouldn't trust the valves in a manual toilet to keep the pressurized water out. I think you'd eventually have an overflowing toilet.
If you want to test it, hook your wash down hose to the toilet and see what happens. Have a rebuild kit handy. My guess is you'll damage something.

If you do this conversion, for heavens sake don't leave the boat with power to the wash down pump.

I guess I don't understand the problem. If you can pump the black water out with your good arm, why can't you pump the clean water in?

[phil23]

Yep I guess I was a bit vague there, at new build the raw water inlet for the heads was set in the stem some distance from the heads and takes a considerable amount of pumping to get the water to the heads even after installing a non return valve in the line. The pump out action only takes a couple of pumps which I can handle. I am trying to avoid having to install another through hull fitting and there is no other raw water supply closer.
Any other suggestions how I may solve my problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[HopCar]

I think the simplest solution is to install a closer intake thru-hull/seacock.

Here are a couple of complicated and expensive solutions:

You could put a tank to supply water to the toilets. Fill it up every so often with either raw or fresh water. You could even put a float valve in the tank that would automatically refill it from your presurized wash down line.

There are very good electric toilets out there as well. Take a look at the Raritan Elegance. I think you could feed it with your wash down pump which would save you the cost of an intake pump.
http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/...EFLYER1010.pdf

Installing a Raritan Elegance would cost money, but everybody I've talked to who has one loves it. It's very quiet, especially with a remote intake pump or fresh water flush.

I just don't think it's a good idea to put pressurized water into a toilet that wasn't designed for it.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by HopCar

I think the simplest solution is to install a closer intake thru-hull/seacock.

Here are a couple of complicated and expensive solutions:

You could put a tank to supply water to the toilets. Fill it up every so often with either raw or fresh water. You could even put a float valve in the tank that would automatically refill it from your presurized wash down line.

There are very good electric toilets out there as well. Take a look at the Raritan Elegance. I think you could feed it with your wash down pump which would save you the cost of an intake pump.
http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/...EFLYER1010.pdf

Installing a Raritan Elegance would cost money, but everybody I've talked to who has one loves it. It's very quiet, especially with a remote intake pump or fresh water flush.

I just don't think it's a good idea to put pressurized water into a toilet that wasn't designed for it.

+1

Don't even go there. Just buy one of the Raritan electric bogs -- you will be glad you did.

[boden36]

I can't see why it would not work. It should be easy enough to cut the line somewhere and put a pump in temporarily. If you end up making it permanent, switch it with a button so it can't be left on.
Another way to try it would be next time you are at the dock, shove a hose from the dock up the inlet from the outside and turn the tap on. That would simulate a pump. If you do this, be aware of flooding anything else that is on that line.
On another note, I can't see why the length of inlet line should make pumping hard. Our toilet takes its flush water from the engine seacock and has around 20 ft of hose. Pumps easily except when the engine is running , and then needs extra effort.(I have a ballcock in this line and turn it off if we are motoring for a long period incase the head pump allows an airleak back into the system, but this should not be relevant for you.)
Maybe you should double check your line and seacock just to make sure there is not some other factor (Kink, blockage, airleak) that is causing the problem.

Regards,

Richard.

[banyandah]

I see this an old thread and quite possibly you have found your solution. But we have a homemade Lavac which fills automatically as the bowel is mostly below W/L, the rim is not unless healed to Sb. We have a ball valve inline, with a bright red marker tape on it to remind us to close it every time we use the toilet. Works very well, the bowl fills to the desire amount, you do your duty and close the lid and pump out using a Henderson Mk IV bilge pump that never ever clogs. It is a one handed operation!

Like you we dislike electric toilets having run charter boats with loos that blocked usually with a buildup human hair or woman's business of silly passengers. On our vessel, we prefer to keep it simple. There's enough other maintenance!

[HopCar]

"Maybe you should double check your line and seacock just to make sure there is not some other factor (Kink, blockage, airleak) that is causing the problem."

Good point.

[jongleur]

Why isn't it common to have the sink drain into the toilet bowl? Everyone washes their hands with fresh water after using the toilet, right?

In 7 years on our K41, the toilet never clogged, never stunk, never needed rebuilding, using this simply plumbed system.

Sea water is what causes leaks, clogs and smells. We never brought any into our boat.

[HopCar]

Bill brings up an interesting point. If there is a sink near the toilet and the sink discharge is below the waterline, you can tee into the sink drain line just above the seacock and draw water for the toilet. If you want to flush with fresh water, close the seacock and run fresh water into the sink as you pump the toilet.

[HopCar]

I need to credit Peggie Hall for teaching me the sink drain trick. Buy her book.
Get Rid of Boat Odors by Peggie Hall