Hot water heater quit

[Oliver L.]

Junior,

you don't have a problem with the water level, that's for sure...because otherwise you would at least see amps being pulled until the safety trips.

Such heaters usually have two thermostats: One that is a safety thermostat, usually just a red button. If it gets too hot, which can happen when there is no water in the tank, it pops out and needs to be reset manually. The other one is usually an adjustable thermostat with a temperature scale. Sometimes that one degrades and you need to se the temperature a tad higher.

After all I have heard I would guess that the two failures of engine heat and electrical are unrelated - I could not really come up with any plausible scenario where one would influence the other...

Good luck with the search - I did it about 4 weeks ago (grin), that's why it's still fresh in my mind...

Oliver

[jr_spyder]

Nemo - no. I have a cylindrical shape mounted horizontally - 12 gal I believe. More like this: http://marinewaterheaters.com/index.php?cPath=2 but not exactly.

Blue Stocking - not sure. Will take a closer look tomorrow. Could send a picture. What are you after?

I have to use a mirror to see the connections and thermostat. Can't find any mark from a manufacturer.

[Blue Stocking]

jr,
I think you will find that Oliver L has solved your electrical problem.
My last question is moot as I have found your model manuals on the Torreson site and can see that I was on a different track of investigation.
That site has the complete operation manual, and some very detailed info on the heat exchanger layout and specifics.
See what you think about the info there, and see if it enlightens you any.

[sailorchic34]

One thing to make sure of is the tank being completely full of water. If the hot water connection is at the top your good to go. If its on the side of the tank, you will want to burp the relief valve, by lifting the handle a bit till only water comes out.

Then with a multi meter check for ohms across the two heating element terminals (with the power off of course). Any reading means its good, An open means the element is shot.

Can also do same continuity check on the high limit and thermostat. With a cold tank both should be closed with unity on the meter. an open reading indicates a bad item.

When replacing a heating element, make sure the relief valve is open (via handle) while refilling the tank. Its very easy for an element to burn out without water around the element. Happens alot in residential replacements too..

Also with a side outlet tank, you'll want to burp the relief valve after you run a water tank out of water. Otherwise air can be trapped in the water heater. Not a big problem on land, but can be on boats.

[jr_spyder]

You guys rock. Thanks for all the tips. Will get back under the deck boards. In Boston watching the Pops and getting ready for fireworks. Life is good.

JR

[jr_spyder]

One mystery solved. The electric heating element is dead. Getting zero resistance there. Applied power and do get 110vac at the terminals meaning the thermostat and reset are ok. Will pull out the element today. Have done this on home heaters so not worried about it, just hope I can find suitable replacement easily.

Don't know how it happened, probably just age. But thinking about putting a relay in my very quiet pressure pump circuit such that whenever the pump is running the heating element is cut off. That way if a supply tank goes empty and the pump starts pumping air the heater won't run in an empty hw tank.

Unlike the hw heater I have the docs for my engine. I fully see/understand the coolant water loop that goes to the hw heater. As expected its quite simple and has no cutoff valves. Can't explain why the coolant isn't flowing. I'll have to start taking things apart which means draining all the coolant. This adventure might wave wait until fall.

Thanks for all the input. I own y'all one.

JR

[Oliver L.]

Jr,

MAKE SURE TO CUT POWER before trying anything on the contacts! 115 Volts can kill you, wet feet or not!

Second, please explain what you mean by "zero resistance". Do you mean it is shorted or do you mean it is open? Open would mean it's burned up, shorted is extremely unlikely, and it would have blown your fuse and/or the high limit on the tank. So if you haven't pulled it yet, please re-measure and tell me what it really is.

Assuming 1000 Watts you need about 10 Amps at 100 Volts. That means the resistance should be about 10 Ohms, and less if it's cold - your Ohmmeter may show this as "short". Is your meter digital?

Oliver

[jr_spyder]

Oliver - no worries I take every precaution around ac voltage. I have an analog meter with a swing needle. The element registers as open - the needle doesn't move. Sorry for the confusion. And like I said it is getting 110vac and not heating or drawing any amps. RIP.

Taking things apart I found the manufacture's plate. I can confirm it is an AllCraft 12 gal. Model is blurry but looks like IZ-12, or maybe TZ-12. 1500 watts. No Google search so far has helped me find this company directly. Seems like they've been bought/sold over the years. Still searching.

JR

[sailorchic34]

The element should be a standard off the shelf part. So try the big box stores or the an appliance repair place.