Yanmar SD50 Saildrives - Have the Cone Clutch Problems Been Solved ?

[Panache5000]

You are correct in stating that the sealed unit can cause problems due to liquid/air expansion due to heating up. The solution is to have a vented unit. Replace the upper fill/bleed screw with a 10mm barb fitting an a 500mm long VERTICAL vent tube into a container. You now have an "open" system that can breathe, eliminating pressure build up. Note I ended the tube in a small container, but it is not really needed. I was initially concerned that there may be oil pushed out, but there is no oil spillage.

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[two fast]

Hi Panache
First I would like to thank you for your advice
I have a cat with 4jh4ce and SD50 with 450hours up luckily no clutch slippage
I have one leaking gear oil on the input seal ie from the bell housing
I have just vented both filler plugs
Do you think the leakage will stop?
And what level should I now fill to Yanmars new or old level?
Thanks again


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[Aqualibrium]

I have 2 SD50s and have had to lap both of them the 1st at about 150 hrs and the second at about 250 hrs.
I am set up to do them on board, the one critical thing to be aware of is the left hand thread on the through shaft.
I have heard from mechanics that you can reduce the clearance in the cone pack and this minimises the problem, I assume this has to be done on the spacer between the two roller bearings.
Does anyone have any experience with this?

[Panache5000]

The spacers between the roller bearings are there to ensure the correct mesh with pinion gear. DO NOT alter these spacers. You have been given incorrect information. The clearance between the Top Nut and upper bearing is critical.
The original Yanmar specs allows too much play, and this is the main cause of the cone slippage.
We have developed a Clutch Kit with Thrust Roller Bearings in place of the Yanmar the Thrust Washers. Our kit allows for much closer tolerances, and eliminates the problem.

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[Aqualibrium]

Thanks Panache where can I source these upgraded repair kits?

[Panache5000]

Contact me on panache5000@yahoo.com

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[IFMLTD]

At Industrial Friction Materials LTD we are able to reline cone clutches in organic friction material.
Organic material is the correct material to use for these types of application rather than using sintered. The organic material last for many years compared to the sintered materials as long as correct oils are used.

The company has being running for over 40 years with 72 years of experience.
We are consultants in friction materials and solve many issues with transmissions and various other braking problems.

We have also solved the Volvo Penta Sail Drive problems.
The original discs were only lasting 70-250 hours, where as our discs have exceed 3000 hours and still going.

Industrial Friction Materials | Brake Manufacture & Relining Services
+442920 499 111/121
mail@industrialfriction.com

[dan swift]

hello all,
i have an sd40 and have big suprise a cone clutch problem. i did everything it says to do regarding the lapping of the cone put it back together and it still doesn't work?? any ideas what i might have done wrong? other than buying a boat with a yanmar sail drive.
thanks, dan

[katsumi]

How was the state of the cone? the cone can wear if they have been slipping left slipping for awhile. Did you check the clearances of the cones and thrust washers etc ? the workshop manual has a good procedure how to check this, I down loaded it from the internet, I have it for the SD 50 I am not sure about the SD 40 but there should be a simular procedure. How was the thatching on the cone after lapping? The last one I did I lapped as per the procedure and found the face was still shinny so I lapped it again with a better result.
Also I am guessing you have checked the gear cable travel adjustment?
It is very frustrating but sound like some good solution for resolving the issue are posted here.
Good luck with it.

[Panache5000]

Hi Dan.


I explained previously on the forum that the set-up parameters are critical. I am not saying this is what you have done, but most times the Cone Clutch is lapped, and re assembled with the same original (worn) thrust washers and Selector adjustment.


We have a developed Rework Kit that replaces the Yanmar thrust washers with Thrust Bearings, allowing a much closer set up tolerance.


Feel free to contact me if you require more info panache5000@yahoo.com

[sowwaninii]

Panache
Do you have photos of the venting and reservoir for sd 50? I have same problem! Leaking from bell.

[Panache5000]

Originally Posted by dan swift

hello all,
i have an sd40 and have big suprise a cone clutch problem. i did everything it says to do regarding the lapping of the cone put it back together and it still doesn't work?? any ideas what i might have done wrong? other than buying a boat with a yanmar sail drive.
thanks, dan

Hi Dan.


I did answer to your posting on the forum.
The problem originates with too much up/down play of the Vertical Shaft, this combined with the limited travel of the Selector causes the Male Cone to only partially connect with the Female Cone before the Selector retracts.


This partial engagement causes slippage between the Cone surfaces, and the situation deteriorates from here.
The partial engagement is sometimes not apparent, especially under light loads. The prop seems to spin, but is not delivering the full thrust. "Blippin/revving" the trottle in gear sometimes makes it engage fully with a clearly felt/heard "Clunk"


We have developed a Rework Kit that replaces the Yanmar Copper thrust washers with Thrust Bearings (similar to VOLVO), and also replace the Yanmar Selector washers/shims with an adjustable Set Screw and Locknut.
The Thrust Bearings and Set Screw allow a much closer initial set-up tolerance, and has reduced wear.


The Rework Kit also makes provision for a Vent for the saildrive, allowing it to "breathe", reducing the possibility of seal failure at the Engine Input and Prop shafts.


The Rework Kit consist of;
New (bigger dia) Lower Collar
New " " Top Nut
2x Thrust Bearings
3x O- Rings
Lapping paste
Vent barb fitting
Vent rubber tubing
Vent end filter
Complete rework procedure based on the Yanmar lapping ans service procedure.


We also have a Spline Holding Tool available to make the Top Nut removal/fitment easier.


Feel free to contact me if you require more info


regards
Gideon panache5000@yahoo.com


We have developed a Rework Kit that

[Panache5000]

Originally Posted by sowwaninii

Panache
Do you have photos of the venting and reservoir for sd 50? I have same problem! Leaking from bell.

Hi Sowanninni


Not I do not have photos of the Vent system.
I originally had a receptacle at the upper end of the Vent Tube, but found it not necessary, because I do not over fill the saildrive with Oil.


Only Air moves up/down the vent Tube. Not Oil. It is NOT a positive pressure system with a head tank/reservoir of oil.


The vent system is part of our SD40 SD50 Rework Kit, and consist of a barb Vent fitting, Rubber Vent Hose and Vent end fitting.


Feel free to contact me if you require more info


Gideon panache5000@yahoo.com

[CaptBligh]

I have had clutch problems since I bought my 2008 Lagoon 440. My SD50 had failed to go into FWD enough that I have had to plan docking and other maneuvers so that I could use reverse (my only reliable gear)to keep me from a collision. Frankly it has been the number one thing to keep me from enjoying my boat. I paid a yard to haul me and they spent a week working on my clutch and as it turns out, they were guessing. They actually put it together incorrectly and fouled the main bearing. It was my fault I guess for not using a solid cruiser reference for that yard and SD50 repair. So thanks to this thread I found Gideon (Panache5000). Gideon agreed to help me with my sail drives and I met him in St. Augustine FL (where we were headed anyway). He was able to extract one of my clutch assembly easily. And with some effort extract the damaged clutch assembly (literally came out in half) and confirm the damage to the one that was done buy the previous yard. Gideon then showed me the amount of play that was in the "good clutch" and how that was likely to cause problems down the road. After lunch and parts washing, he returned with what appeared to be new clutch assemblies. They were set up with .2 mil tolerance with bearings instead of washers. They were installed quite quickly and a vent tube was added to the top of the case as well. The next day I actually had the boat hauled to remove the problematic lower prop assembly and drain the bad oil and ALL OF THE METAL in the case from the previous "professional yard" repair. After splash down, I finally had confidence FWD gear. It's like having a new boat. Gideon is the most knowledgeable and nicest cruiser you will ever meet and if you have SD50s I would highly recommend you seek him out. I offer this reference as I know that not using a reference can be problematic! Believe it or not I would not hesitate to buy another boat with SD50s in the future.

[arsenelupiga]

I have purchased the kit. As cones were lapped before (now going 100 hrs witout slip), i am waiting for any sign of slippage before doing rework myself, however, 'oil breather' have installed and works well. It resolved issue of random saildrive oil level when checking oil which was pain as one could easily midiagnose water ingress in saildrive. Was advised to take boat out by mechanic based on increased level of oil. It is just captured air.

Now there is basically no chance of water ingress as oil pressure in saildrive is always positive.

I am quite happy with SD 50.