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Seabeau · 28-07-2017, 01:37

The aluminum beams hopefully will do the trick structurally , however they are not very appealing to the eye given the overall look of the rest of your vessel. Have you given any thought as to covering them? Perhaps some cordage wrapped around them?

honey badger · 28-07-2017, 08:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seabeau

The aluminum beams hopefully will do the trick structurally , however they are not very appealing to the eye given the overall look of the rest of your vessel. Have you given any thought as to covering them? Perhaps some cordage wrapped around them?

Oh yes mate.The ends will be capped in timber.I will paint them too.Once the deck is laid over the top of the beams not much of them will be exposed.

honey badger · 28-07-2017, 08:22

So today the boat will be getting it's first coat of epoxy paint.
Like a lot of things on this build we will be using a modern epoxy floor coating paint. It is as hard as a hookers heart and thicker than regular paint.

On my mate Richards advice I have not sanded to aggressively around the keels.The thinking is to allow the existing cloth to absord the new application.
This is music to my ears as anyone who has sanded an old hull will know.

Once the coat has gone off I will be able to see those inevitable imperfections more easily.

Cavalier MK2 · 28-07-2017, 08:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by honey badger

This how I go about fixing soft spots.This repair is located at the stern post.Attachment 152868 Attachment 152869 Attachment 152870

You can get away with this on the Wharram classic construction with the wide ribbands but I'd bevel the edges of the hole and patch piece for overlapping scarfs. It's a bit mor work but stronger as the skin will carry the loads as well as the stringers and frames.

Redreuben · 28-07-2017, 22:27

Honey Badger, don't make it too hard to inspect for fatigue.

Redreuben · 28-07-2017, 22:28

I was talking about your beams [emoji2]

honey badger · 29-07-2017, 09:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cavalier MK2

You can get away with this on the Wharram classic construction with the wide ribbands but I'd bevel the edges of the hole and patch piece for overlapping scarfs. It's a bit mor work but stronger as the skin will carry the loads as well as the stringers and frames.

Good tip.

honey badger · 29-07-2017, 09:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redreuben

Honey Badger, don't make it too hard to inspect for fatigue.

No worries mate.The nature of the aluminium plank construction makes me doubt that a catastrophic failure would occur.
Essentially each plank has 3 box sections.
A boat building mob north of here makes house boats out of them.The hulls being entirely made up of scaffolding planks.

Cavalier MK2 · 29-07-2017, 09:19

I can't recall how thick the ply is on a Narai but figure 6 to 1 on up to 8 to 1 is plenty for a 4 sided scarf patch. Anything helps but a couple inches on the overlaps anyway. A great too for this sort of thing is one of the multitools that plunge and flush cut with a narrow blade. You can also put adesive sand paper on the flat of the blade for smoothing things out. With thickened epoxy it doesn't need to be perfect but it is easy to get the hang of.

For butt joints in ply that don't have room for a conventional backing block a piece of heavier glass cloth like 10 oz can be put over the area on the inside crossing stringers etc... for enough overlap.

WharramMan · 29-07-2017, 16:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by boatman61

Why dont you construct Tiki style H beams instead of metal or solid wood.. the Narai was designed in days pre epoxy and the modern H beams are just as strong but lighter.

Hmmm. My extended Tiki 46 style "H" Beams for my Narai are nearly 400lbs each. Light is not a word I would use to describe them. However, I would not personally substitute aluminum for them.