What Is the Best Anti-Fouling Bottom Paint

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by WFF

People add Cayenne pepper to bottom paint because of its hotness right.
It works well.

[jayncee]

We like Super B Gold ablative bottom paint and have been using it on our Hunter 49 for the last two haul outs. We have purchased at PB boat store. Before we purchased it we checked many reviews and many were excellent.

[brenno1]

International Micron Extra or Jotun Sea Guardian! These have been tried, tested and loved by thousands of Pro-Care Marine Antifoul & Detail's clients of the Gold Coast, Australia for years. See there website Antifouling Gold Coast & boat detailing services QLD

[Jimbo485]

So what has been the best anti foul paint around Queensland and the SW Pacific?

What do you use, Jim and Ann Cate?



Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[stoomy]

For people looking for the "definitive list".

Antifouling Test - Inside Practical Sailor Blog Article

As I've probably stated previously Micron 66 does an awesome job in New England. Of course it's not cheap.

[Rustic Charm]

I didn't want to start a new thread. Can some of you gurus have a look at the following eBay product and tell me if it would be a good product for preparing a steel hull for anti foul?

WET Stone Polisher WET Polisher Grinder Granite Diamond Polishing Pads 800Watt | eBay

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

I didn't want to start a new thread. Can some of you gurus have a look at the following eBay product and tell me if it would be a good product for preparing a steel hull for anti foul?

WET Stone Polisher WET Polisher Grinder Granite Diamond Polishing Pads 800Watt | eBay

A couple of points.
I've not used this product but from its description it seems to be more of a polisher rather than a grinder.
Exactly what are you trying to do, remove old anti fouling, , remove old sea growth and weed etc, prepare hull for primer, fair hull or just what.
My prevoius steel boat always need aggressive type grindering for any work below the waterline and IMO, this product would have very unsuitable.

YMMV

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Wotname

A couple of points.
I've not used this product but from its description it seems to be more of a polisher rather than a grinder.
Exactly what are you trying to do, remove old anti fouling, , remove old sea growth and weed etc, prepare hull for primer, fair hull or just what.
My prevoius steel boat always need aggressive type grindering for any work below the waterline and IMO, this product would have very unsuitable.

YMMV

I'm wanting something that will help me sand my bottom hull after I've removed the years of anti foul build up. It's the water attachment that got me interested. Given Anti foul is cariogenic, I thought this would give that added protection.

I've discovered a liquid paint remover which I'm going to use to take most of it off with. Peel Away One

There is no where locally I can have it sand blasted, which is what I'd prefer.

[Seman]

I have used a copper based antifoul, Transozean, bought in the Philippines, on my GRP mono, & added approx 200g copper powder to 4ltr of paint. After sitting in a marina on the Gold Coast in Oz for 18 month, the prop ( not painted ) looked like a bit of reef, the hull clean, as if painted 2 weeks ago. Nothing at all!

I did try adding anti biotics the the antifoul on my Alu cat, painted 1 rudder with Pacifica Plus & added the powder to the other rudder, I could not see any difference after 3 month. Both rudders had barnicals attached.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

I'm wanting something that will help me sand my bottom hull after I've removed the years of anti foul build up. It's the water attachment that got me interested. Given Anti foul is cariogenic, I thought this would give that added protection.

I've discovered a liquid paint remover which I'm going to use to take most of it off with. Peel Away One

There is no where locally I can have it sand blasted, which is what I'd prefer.

Just a warning to anyone who reads this. Don't use Peel Away. It's absolutely crap. You would need ten times the amount recommended to get it to work. I wasted $500 on this rubbish and still had to get my boat sand blasted.

[Mark Johnson]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

No modified epoxy (like Trinidad) can withstand prolonged periods out of the water. This is one of the very few attributes in which ablative paints can be said to be superior over them, IMHO.

What is your opinion of Vivid?

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by Mark Johnson

What is your opinion of Vivid?

Possibly the softest (read: shortest lived) anti fouling paint I have ever come across. Hull cleaners hate it. Typically needs repainting in 9-12 months around here.

[Mark Johnson]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

Possibly the softest (read: shortest lived) anti fouling paint I have ever come across. Hull cleaners hate it. Typically needs repainting in 9-12 months around here.

Bummer... we are on the hard now, in a 25th year refit, and removing decades of paint CAREFULLY, as our self built 34' Searunner wood/epoxy tri has no gel coat as a backup to the paint. We have not hauled for 9 years!

We have 6" of paint dry, above the water, as we are not now loaded for cruising.

I was considering using Vivid bottom paint for the color, hardness, and it can dry out. This paint job is taking several months, and I need to do it in small masked off areas for logistical reasons.

Our paint remaining in blotches is mostly the Trinidad base coats, with bare hull i between in spots.

In areas that are concave, however, like notches, around rudder hardware, and in the CB trunk, we have the more recent ABC #3, over "Chinese Green" ablative that I put on in Trinidad.

This is the reason I can not go back to Trinidad paint, as in these areas that I can only scuff the old paint, what is left on there is mostly ablative paints. Not compatible.

Also, I have the problem that the travel lift straps pinch VERY hard on the amas, so the paint needs to be tough, hard, and bonded!

These issues have me looking for the hardest ablative I can find, that takes to being dry, and I DO scrub the bottom during season.

So... Vivid is not a good option? What do you suggest for my issues?
We are in brackish water in NC.
Thx

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by Mark Johnson

Also, I have the problem that the travel lift straps pinch VERY hard on the amas, so the paint needs to be tough, hard, and bonded!

A tough, hard ablative? Good luck with that.

[Mark Johnson]

Originally Posted by fstbttms

A tough, hard ablative? Good luck with that.

I could use ablative in the CB trunk only, and after 6 more weeks of sanding, go back to using Trinidad, everywhere else. I had geed enough results in the past, and ALWAYS go years between haul outs, scrubbing in season more and more as the paint dies.

In general, you think Trinidad is a good way to go? Will the 6" above the water mud crack?