What do you think of my thru hull condition?

[C420sailor]

So. Much. This. ^^^^^^^

[LittleWing77]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Study everything in the following link… every word of it!

The Groco flanged adapters will work great for you!

https://marinehowto.com/replacing-th...-and-seacocks/

Gratitude and blessings to Rod Collins - that article is amazing, as usual. Boy, does he know his $*it! Thanks for the link, Jedi.

And I see Manateeman, our resident professional boatbuilder, has logged onto this thread as well.

Mark, aren't you in the midst of your own thruhull + seacock installation yourself...?

I'll be interested to hear what you have to add.

Fair winds, all,
LittleWing77

[AiniA]

I just installed a new through hull using Trudesign fittings from New Zealand. Very impressed with their designs including the load bearing collar which protects the skin fitting entirely. Bonus is that they are substantially cheaper than any bronze ones.
https://www.trudesign.nz/marine/products

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by Capt. Caveman

I did have the boat surveyed and pointed the surveyor towards them and he said their condition was fine. I asked how you can tell if there is imminent failure and he said they would start to weep first - does that sounds reasonable?
.

When I bought my Hallberg Rassy 35, the under the water galley sink thru-hull had trace stains from the thru-hull. She was out of the water and I wondered if the drain hose had not been tight enough. I grabbed the hose to see if it would rock on the thru-hull barb stem...SNAP! off it came.
I always go out of my way to change as many thru-hulls I can above the waterline.

[Tillsbury]

When my boat was surveyed there were two inlets identified by the surveyor as needing replacement before I sailed anywhere. They were in better condition than those.

Replacing those would be at the very top of my to do list if I were you

[Manateeman]

The condition of the thru hulls of the original poster was truly frightening. The forum is fortunate to have members who understand the proper repair and the urgency to undertake them. Jedi has posted the reference required. Thank you.
We are removing all the Forespar Marelon seacocks as three have frozen. There are numerous documented cases of failures of the original seacocks including open valves which cannot be shut and broken handles. Forespar changed the design but did not compensate owners or builders. We are replacing them with Groco adaptor plates and valves.
TruDesign are not seacocks but supported ball valves. They are not bolted to the hull or to a fixed and secured backing plate. I would not use them either.
My decision is based upon 50 years of building boats for several well known OEM firms, my qualification as a USCG vessel safety coordinator and my experience as a Merchant Mariner. Where practical, I would suggest fewer hull openings by converting to a sea chest fed by a Groco system. Electrical ball valves upstream will give you the advantage of closing off for short times away and sealing your vessel by the Groco valves for longer times or at sea.
Happy trails to you.
Captain Mark and his manatee crew.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Capt. Caveman

Hi All,


I did have the boat surveyed and pointed the surveyor towards them and he said their condition was fine. I asked how you can tell if there is imminent failure and he said they would start to weep first - does that sounds reasonable?

Thanks in advance.

Find out what your surveyor was smoking.

These all look scary as can be. What the others have posted is spot on.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Weakest link theory.... ....

You must have missed that info in the link to Rod Collins article? IIRC he discusses this in depth. In short, there is no comparison, the Groco adapters have a much thicker wall at that threaded part… I believe 3x as thick.

[danielhwolf]

Originally Posted by Capt. Caveman

I'm only with the boat for another 3 days (no time for haul out) and then need to leave it for a month. Is there anything I can do short term to strengthen it?

Yes. You may have to get wet, though. The bung that you would otherwise have inboard to drive in from the inside to stop inrushing water? If there's no mesh preventing you, drive it in from the outside. If there is mesh that you can't remove, get some non-permanent glue/mastic you can apply wet and glue a piece of plastic sheeting over the through hull opening. If the flange breaks water pressure will hold the plastic to the hull.

[George_SD]

Those thruhulls needs to be replaced. Can it wait 6 months? - Yes, but only if you are super careful and gentle with them.

I had a very similar situation and my ball-valve attached to a thruhull - it broke at the threads with very little force applied (was just lightly pushing on the hose). The corrosion and color you are seeing are a sign of a weakened metal. In my case it broke above the valve, so it was not a giant emergency, but i did end up doing a valve replacement right in the slip. I went with the Marelon Forespar instead of bronze - so far so good and seems to be working well, plus no threat of corrosion.

You should plan on getting these replaced with something decent like Groco or TrueDesign with proper flanges, etc.

Good luck!

[George_SD]

Originally Posted by danielhwolf

Yes. You may have to get wet, though. The bung that you would otherwise have inboard to drive in from the inside to stop inrushing water? If there's no mesh preventing you, drive it in from the outside. If there is mesh that you can't remove, get some non-permanent glue/mastic you can apply wet and glue a piece of plastic sheeting over the through hull opening. If the flange breaks water pressure will hold the plastic to the hull.

So from personal experience - my wood bung ended up breaking a bronze nipple in the elbow (it was corroded similar to the thruhulls pictured by the OP) once the bung absorbed water and expanded slightly. I also did an in-slip replacement of the valve and had a thruhull with the strainer. I ended up using toilet ring wax on cling wrap plastic, it was molded into a circle shape that I've attached to the hull over the strainer. When the valve was removed and water pressure pushed on the plastic - it held ok, but there was some small amounts of water coming in. So unless you do it with an underwater adhesive, i would be suspect of leaving it for a prolonged period and thinking it would stop the water.

[danielhwolf]

Originally Posted by George_SD

I also did an in-slip replacement of the valve and had a thruhull with the strainer. I ended up using toilet ring wax on cling wrap plastic, it was molded into a circle shape that I've attached to the hull over the strainer. When the valve was removed and water pressure pushed on the plastic - it held ok, but there was some small amounts of water coming in. So unless you do it with an underwater adhesive, i would be suspect of leaving it for a prolonged period and thinking it would stop the water.

Excellent additional ideas.

[more]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Study everything in the following link… every word of it!

The Groco flanged adapters will work great for you!

https://marinehowto.com/replacing-th...-and-seacocks/

Are Groco have product with ISO 7 and ISO 228 British Standard Pipe thread

In EU rare anybody use Groco valve,very hard to find.

[more]

Originally Posted by Capt. Caveman

Hi All,

I'm a new member but have lurked here for a while gleaning information so thank you for that.

I have recently purchased a Jeanneau SO 42DS which I'm very happy with. Being new to boats I'm struggling to work out if my thru hulls are a concern. I have heard thru hulls are a general weakness of these boats so I would be very happy to hear what more experienced people think.

I did have the boat surveyed and pointed the surveyor towards them and he said their condition was fine. I asked how you can tell if there is imminent failure and he said they would start to weep first - does that sounds reasonable?

Thanks in advance.

This valve and seacocks must be replaced every 5 year.
if you exchange use trudesign skin fittings and valve. This last very long. Your is for exchange. also from picture, you have in time small leakage of sea water is this salt on picture. Do not clean this valve when your boat is in water easy broke because inside damaged is unknown.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by more

Are Groco have product with ISO 7 and ISO 228 British Standard Pipe thread

In EU rare anybody use Groco valve,very hard to find.

You simply order them, they ship worldwide