Teak decks. Should I run away????

[Na Mara]

Anyone here with any experience of any of the teak substitutes? I will need to redo the decks in 10years roughly and for environmental reason I don’t want to do it with teak. Cork is supposedly very good and even insulates a little against heat and cold. It’s also half the cost of teak including labour. Lignia is more a like for like replacement ata 10% discount using impregnated softwoods. Looks like new teak throughout its very long lifespan (50years). I’m not interested in PVC, Foam or simply reglassing and nonslip paint. Basically, I want the look with out the guilty conscience.

[jipcho]

After a few years, my teak deck on a 40 year old wood boat rotted the underlying marine plywood in the cockpit, directly over the engine. The teak planks were glued and screwed on. I tried removing planks only in the affected area, with the idea of replacing a few. But it was extremely difficult, and rot would likely have continued in another area. Eventually, I took friends advice, and cut a new piece of marine ply, sealed it with epoxy, painted it white with some anti-skid sand, and sikaflexed it directly on top of the teak cockpit sole. It looked fine, and solved all my leakiage problems. Stay away from the teak!

[valhalla360]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Well of course that is correct.

But the idea is that pulling the five screws that appear to be in the worst shape to inspect that area of deck, then one might infer that there could be a good chance that the rest of the of deck would be at least as good if not better condition than the deck around those five.

Assuming that isn't the case, then how about a suggestion on a better method to determine the condition of the deck and core.

I would look at it as proof there is some damage and you will need to refurbish because even if they haven't leaked yet, there is a good chance they will soon.

If they come back clean with no evidence of damage, now you have a fair chance the rest is in as-good or better condition.

Personally, I hate any exterior wood...looks pretty but is a hassle to keep up.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

This sounds like the advice and wisdom from someone who has never done the job himself. All the folks that I know who have done the job would likely disagree with your opinion of the difficulty, expense and time involved.



Jim

Correct , firstly removing a partly stuck down deck ( many have combinations of glue and screw ) is a huge time consuming task. Then you have to remove stacks of deck gear , hose fillers etc many of which need under side access which can be near impossible.

Then you have to sand the whole deck, filling 4000 screw holes is one pita.

Then you typically need to seal the surface with a layer or two of glass. Then paint and apply the non slip of your choice.

It’s massively time consuming requires considerable skill or a big cheque book.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Na Mara

Anyone here with any experience of any of the teak substitutes? I will need to redo the decks in 10years roughly and for environmental reason I don’t want to do it with teak. Cork is supposedly very good and even insulates a little against heat and cold. It’s also half the cost of teak including labour. Lignia is more a like for like replacement ata 10% discount using impregnated softwoods. Looks like new teak throughout its very long lifespan (50years). I’m not interested in PVC, Foam or simply reglassing and nonslip paint. Basically, I want the look with out the guilty conscience.

I have laid teak , flexi-teak and marinedeck 2000 ( cork )

Flexi-teak gets really very hot so in sunlight intensive areas it’s really a pita ( it was burning the soles of my feet )

It needs very careful prep and glueing otherwise it will bubble and lift. You need good Diy skills or hire an expensive factory trained installer. The upside is it’s more durable then cork.

Marinedeck came in preassembled ( flexi-teak can be got that way ) panels , glues nicely but it’s more fragile then either the other too and it absorbs stains.

Real teak ( I machined it from Burmese planks ) is the nicest to work , I used an all glue approach. However you need to be a capable woodworker and it’s sloooow

[Na Mara]

As I understand it working Lignia is almost identical to working teak, and it to can be glued (no screws next time to future proof the core). I won’t be doing this myself and I’m willing to pay to do it right. I’ll probably get Regina to relay the decks when it’s time.

What’s the lifespan of cork? Can’t it be extended by going thicker?

[goboatingnow]

Is lignia available in 12mm , I always thought those artificial decks were quite thick ( 22mm plus ) that’s a lot of weight. The other thing is it looks like a softwood grain pattern which would seem weird on a boat.

[skipmac]

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions. Sorry has been a busy week and didn't have time to reply but have been reading all posts.

First, at least for this boat, the question is moot as there was an offer made and accepted the same day I flew to Virginia to inspect the boat.

Then regarding teak decks in general, pros and cons.

Pros.

- Teak decks do look Marvelous!
- There is no better non skid going.
- Glued not screwed they are leak proof.
- A lot of high quality, "blue water" (I hate that term) boats come with teak decks so demanding no teak will limit my options. Scandinavian boat builders in particular do seem fixated on teak decks.

Cons

- Have had a boat with teak decks and in southern climes on hot, sunny days the decks will burn your feet. And I mean burn as in approaching blistering.
- Adds a lot of weight to the boat.
- New teak is plantation grown and typically lower quality and much softer than old growth Burma teak. There is still wild grown Burma teak but most of this is cut illegally and is contributing to trashing the tropical rain forests where it's harvested.
- Regardless of how they are installed, teak decks do have a finite lifespan and sooner or later will require repair, replacing or removal.

[Na Mara]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Is lignia available in 12mm , I always thought those artificial decks were quite thick ( 22mm plus ) that’s a lot of weight. The other thing is it looks like a softwood grain pattern which would seem weird on a boat.

Reginas aren’t that weight sensitive for this to be a problem.

[Na Mara]

I think Lignia decks look alright.

[Na Mara]

Sorry to hear that the boat in the US fell through skipmac. They are sought after boats that don’t tend to hang around long and that one was priced to sell. Better luck next time

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Na Mara

As I understand it working Lignia is almost identical to working teak, and it to can be glued (no screws next time to future proof the core). I won’t be doing this myself and I’m willing to pay to do it right. I’ll probably get Regina to relay the decks when it’s time.

What’s the lifespan of cork? Can’t it be extended by going thicker?

I asked Regina about redoing the decks and seems like they do offer ongoing repairs and upgrades to their boats and were very willing to consider the job. But indicated around KR400.000 for the job.

[mako]

Originally Posted by skipmac

First, at least for this boat, the question is moot as there was an offer made and accepted the same day I flew to Virginia to inspect the boat.

Wow Skip. I would never spend money on a ticket without having an agreed price and an offer from the broker drafted and ready for signature and deposit. You then fly out there and inspect and if it meets your needs then write a check there on the boat. I’ve done it before. Stop wasting your money and time.

Remember, for the most part, sellers and brokers are deceptive. And if you don’t agree with that statement then you can believe that few boats are as good in real life as their photos make them out to be.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by skipmac

I asked Regina about redoing the decks and seems like they do offer ongoing repairs and upgrades to their boats and were very willing to consider the job. But indicated around KR400.000 for the job.

€40,000 sounds about right

[LakeSuperior]

Originally Posted by skipmac

Thanks all for the comments and suggestions. Sorry has been a busy week and didn't have time to reply but have been reading all posts.

First, at least for this boat, the question is moot as there was an offer made and accepted the same day I flew to Virginia to inspect the boat.

Then regarding teak decks in general, pros and cons.

Pros.

- Teak decks do look Marvelous!
- There is no better non skid going.
- Glued not screwed they are leak proof.
- A lot of high quality, "blue water" (I hate that term) boats come with teak decks so demanding no teak will limit my options. Scandinavian boat builders in particular do seem fixated on teak decks.

Cons

- Have had a boat with teak decks and in southern climes on hot, sunny days the decks will burn your feet. And I mean burn as in approaching blistering.
- Adds a lot of weight to the boat.
- New teak is plantation grown and typically lower quality and much softer than old growth Burma teak. There is still wild grown Burma teak but most of this is cut illegally and is contributing to trashing the tropical rain forests where it's harvested.
- Regardless of how they are installed, teak decks do have a finite lifespan and sooner or later will require repair, replacing or removal.

Your assessment is incomplete in that you should do a cross-comparison with the pros and cons of a plastic cored deck.

The look and feel of a teak deck is directly comparable to some of the finer things in our lives.