Sourcing 3in, polished 316 stainless Flanges?

[Chotu]

It might be because no one knows the answer. Asking a few different places, I’ve seen a huge variation.

Custom is a bad idea I think. I just need a 3” version of what I linked to in the original post. Mass produced. In polished 316, anodized aluminum or frp (which is nearly my first choice for weight savings.

Originally Posted by Allied39

Hmm, I find some of this interesting.
I cant imagine the OP will get "traumatized" by my thoughts on this, I feel it's pretty much on topic. If he is, simply say so and I will desist.

No one will put a price on what they think a fair price of one of these units would be. A custom made unit. Hmpf.

We know a 2 inch unit, likely mass produced in china, off the shelf cost $26. Presumably plus tax. Fantastic price....nigh on mindblowing actually.....if you think on it for a moment.

We know a 1 ,5 inch stanchion base cost $55, presumably custom, presumably plus tax. Over double what the OP paid for his 2 inch unit......and also an excellent price in my mind.

So were i to have a workshop in my backyard that contained mid size lathe, the ability to weld stainless, say mig and arc ( thinking on TIG, be fun to learn more skills) , a cold saw, good drill press 2x72 belt sander , buffing machine .....and all the other misc bits and peices like belts,buffing pads/compounds,drills,shamfers,316 arc rods,high speed tool cutters...etc etc etc what would I charge to knock one of these up?

To very exacting standards i get the impresion.....not the slightest blemish.

Well, how long would it take? I am going to ballpark it at 5 hrs. maybe 4, but I would say 5.....just to be safe.

The material. I dont have exact dimensions....so about 4 1/2 diameter 1/4 plate. Remember it doesent start round,,,,nope, gotta make it round. And about 2 1/2 inches of 3 inch daimeter pipe. Hmpf? I am going to say were I to waste the time pricing it at online metals that would likely be $50....or more, but lets say $50. We wont even think on shipping and tax.

So if I had about $10,000 bucks worth of machinery in my garage, and $50 in material and it takes me 5 hrs to do the job.

Lets say I enjoy this work ( which I do, because I dont need to do it most likely) so would charge $50 in labour. Stupid, I know, but beer money.
So....after all that......

I would say $100 a piece would be an awsome price. $150 a piece would be about right.......and $ 200 a piece a bit steep.

And those numbers are what I consider. Imagine what a business has to pay in expenses on top of what I have: Rent, insurance (likely multiple) workers wages and expenses (workers comp etc etc) power bills, licensing.....and I am sure there are bunch more.

They would likely have the advantage (like me to be honest) that they either have the material in stock or do not pay online metals prices.

All very interesting stuff to consider when someone asks "how much do you think this item is worth custom fabricated by some one (or company) with the machinery and skills ( not insignificant) to do the job to an exacting standard".........and not a single response.

hmpf.

[hpeer]

Originally Posted by Allied39

Hmm, I find some of this interesting.
I cant imagine the OP will get "traumatized" by my thoughts on this, I feel it's pretty much on topic. If he is, simply say so and I will desist.

No one will put a price on what they think a fair price of one of these units would be. A custom made unit. Hmpf.

We know a 2 inch unit, likely mass produced in china, off the shelf cost $26. Presumably plus tax. Fantastic price....nigh on mindblowing actually.....if you think on it for a moment.

We know a 1 ,5 inch stanchion base cost $55, presumably custom, presumably plus tax. Over double what the OP paid for his 2 inch unit......and also an excellent price in my mind.

So were i to have a workshop in my backyard that contained mid size lathe, the ability to weld stainless, say mig and arc ( thinking on TIG, be fun to learn more skills) , a cold saw, good drill press 2x72 belt sander , buffing machine .....and all the other misc bits and peices like belts,buffing pads/compounds,drills,shamfers,316 arc rods,high speed tool cutters...etc etc etc what would I charge to knock one of these up?

To very exacting standards i get the impresion.....not the slightest blemish.

Well, how long would it take? I am going to ballpark it at 5 hrs. maybe 4, but I would say 5.....just to be safe.

The material. I dont have exact dimensions....so about 4 1/2 diameter 1/4 plate. Remember it doesent start round,,,,nope, gotta make it round. And about 2 1/2 inches of 3 inch daimeter pipe. Hmpf? I am going to say were I to waste the time pricing it at online metals that would likely be $50....or more, but lets say $50. We wont even think on shipping and tax.

So if I had about $10,000 bucks worth of machinery in my garage, and $50 in material and it takes me 5 hrs to do the job.

Lets say I enjoy this work ( which I do, because I dont need to do it most likely) so would charge $50 in labour. Stupid, I know, but beer money.
So....after all that......

I would say $100 a piece would be an awsome price. $150 a piece would be about right.......and $ 200 a piece a bit steep.

And those numbers are what I consider. Imagine what a business has to pay in expenses on top of what I have: Rent, insurance (likely multiple) workers wages and expenses (workers comp etc etc) power bills, licensing.....and I am sure there are bunch more.

They would likely have the advantage (like me to be honest) that they either have the material in stock or do not pay online metals prices.

All very interesting stuff to consider when someone asks "how much do you think this item is worth custom fabricated by some one (or company) with the machinery and skills ( not insignificant) to do the job to an exacting standard".........and not a single response.

hmpf.

Grinder ($100), various wheels ($100), and TIG set up ($1,200). Material about $13/pound. 6” diameter plate.

You will do 4. 2 full days tops @ $100/hour is $1,600/4 is $400 each.

A good shop should be able to do it for a LOT fewer hours. Under 8 or $200 each.

So thats my guess, $200 to $400 each.

My gut says $200 each, material included, if you shop around and have some decent sketches for them to work off of.

[hpeer]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I know. I saw you drew a stub flange (collar inside). For styling, I’m trying to do collar outside so it looks more appealing the the dead end of a support column sitting on a flange.

I already bought the 8 (qty) 2in ones from this source in the original post.

I want to try to match that style if possible, even in anodized aluminum if necessary. It frp would be fine too.

Yiu can get anything you want if you throw enough money at it.

You want something:
Not commercially made,
Extremely high quality,
That weighs nothing,
Off the shelf,
Inexpensively.

Somehow I get the feeling you are less interested in solutions than finding insolvable problems.

Folks here have proffered various solutions. But you find something wrong with them all. This seems to be a trend.

At best you are stuck in “analysis paralysis.”

I suspect you are on the verge of having a complete failure because hou are in the way of success.

Sorry my friend, you are not alone, nor far from unusual. Boat yards are full of unfinished dreams.

My advice is you need to do some serious self reflection and determine what it is you are truly trying to accomplish.

My best wishes go out to you because I think you are headed for some tough times.

[Chotu]

Found them! In FRP.

3” ID so I can put the support column inside.

3lbs each! About $50.

I’ll paint them for looks.

https://www.frpfittings.com/products...ails&d=3%22&l=

https://www.frpsupply.com/frp-stub-flanges/


Also need to cut down the length a bit to make them look nice and drill a hole for the set screws.

[Allied39]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Found them! In FRP.

3” ID so I can put the support column inside.

3lbs each! About $50.

I’ll paint them for looks.

https://www.frpfittings.com/products...ails&d=3%22&l=

https://www.frpsupply.com/frp-stub-flanges/


Also need to cut down the length a bit to make them look nice and drill a hole for the set screws.

Ha, interesting! Thats going in my "excellent" resource pile.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by hpeer

Yiu can get anything you want if you throw enough money at it.

You want something:
Not commercially made,
Extremely high quality,
That weighs nothing,
Off the shelf,
Inexpensively.

Somehow I get the feeling you are less interested in solutions than finding insolvable problems.

Folks here have proffered various solutions. But you find something wrong with them all. This seems to be a trend.

At best you are stuck in “analysis paralysis.”

I suspect you are on the verge of having a complete failure because hou are in the way of success.

Sorry my friend, you are not alone, nor far from unusual. Boat yards are full of unfinished dreams.

My advice is you need to do some serious self reflection and determine what it is you are truly trying to accomplish.

My best wishes go out to you because I think you are headed for some tough times.

Why do you come in here with some ideas then turn into a complete jerk?

I won’t put up with this type of BS. Don’t project your broken dreams and misery on my build.

You owe me an apology.

$50, 3lbs each, will never corrode.

Found the solution.

It’s extremely high quality, off the shelf, commercially made, weighs nothing and is inexpensive.

How does that fit with your BS trash talking post above?

You need to learn to problem solve my friend. You need to learn to do critical thinking like you see me do in my threads. End result? Seriously awesome boats.

I completely solved this because I DONT think in your limited ways. There are tons of great solutions on my vacuum resin infused boat just like this one.

My boat is IN THE WATER and has 1500 nautical miles on it. Just doing the interior, some odds and ends and getting a rig on. Your dreams may be all broken, but mine are flourishing. I’m not someone that gives up and says it can’t be done. That’s the difference between us and why you didn’t solve this problem, while with the help of all the posters, I did.

I create threads to brainstorm ideas. Not to take sub par “solutions “. I weight the entirety of the input on each thread, arriving at a decision or solving it.

I thought you were a good guy. Why post something so trashy as you did?

[CassidyNZ]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Found them! In FRP.

3” ID so I can put the support column inside.

3lbs each! About $50.

I’ll paint them for looks.

https://www.frpfittings.com/products...ails&d=3%22&l=

https://www.frpsupply.com/frp-stub-flanges/


Also need to cut down the length a bit to make them look nice and drill a hole for the set screws.

I gotta say that even though the sample shown may be good quality as far as FRP can go, it doesn’t even approach the quality of the one in your original post which I sort of accepted as a “non-negotiable” benchmark. No matter how well the paint finish turns out, it will be a substantial contrast to the polished SS tube you intend to mate up to it.

Given your comment of “This is a centerpiece of the boat. One of the things that will determine the boat’s value. I really need them to look like the one in the pic I started the thread with”, I never thought you’d be OK to slide that far down the quality scale. A painted FRP component is miles away from your original stated position.

And I also wouldn’t expect a great long-term result from the set screws tapped into FRP. The moment of leverage on fittings like this is normally significant.

Sorry to be critical of your solution but I was waiting with bated breath for something more special.

[sail4evr]

IMO any above average welder with access to materials and a shop could fabricate your piece. Keep looking

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by CassidyNZ

I gotta say that even though the sample shown may be good quality as far as FRP can go, it doesn’t even approach the quality of the one in your original post which I sort of accepted as a “non-negotiable” benchmark. No matter how well the paint finish turns out, it will be a substantial contrast to the polished SS tube you intend to mate up to it.

Given your comment of “This is a centerpiece of the boat. One of the things that will determine the boat’s value. I really need them to look like the one in the pic I started the thread with”, I never thought you’d be OK to slide that far down the quality scale. A painted FRP component is miles away from your original stated position.

And I also wouldn’t expect a great long-term result from the set screws tapped into FRP. The moment of leverage on fittings like this is normally significant.

Sorry to be critical of your solution but I was waiting with bated breath for something more special.

The tube is FRP to keep weight off the boat.

The flanges are, of course, through bolted, not screwed into the foam core laminate. Screwing them in would be incredibly shoddy work. Like a production build. Nothing like that is allowed here.

Should look good all painted up the same.

Weight trumps everything on this build, so the painted parts will be sufficient, though not as pretty as polished stainless, I agree.

[CassidyNZ]

Originally Posted by Chotu

The tube is FRP to keep weight off the boat.

The flanges are, of course, through bolted, not screwed into the foam core laminate. Screwing them in would be incredibly shoddy work. Like a production build. Nothing like that is allowed here.

Should look good all painted up the same.

Weight trumps everything on this build, so the painted parts will be sufficient, though not as pretty as polished stainless, I agree.

Sorry, I obviously misinterpreted your original intention. I thought the stainless mounts would receive stainless tube. If the whole assembly is FRP then I wonder why your original perspective on the flanges was “shiny stainless or nothing”.

Also, the set screws I referred to weren’t the ones holding the flanges to the boat - I was talking if the set screws that hold the tubes into the flanges.

[Nicholson58]

Try McMaster Carr or Marine Parts Depot

Marine Part Depot

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by CassidyNZ

Sorry, I obviously misinterpreted your original intention. I thought the stainless mounts would receive stainless tube. If the whole assembly is FRP then I wonder why your original perspective on the flanges was “shiny stainless or nothing”.

Also, the set screws I referred to weren’t the ones holding the flanges to the boat - I was talking if the set screws that hold the tubes into the flanges.

First paragraph was because I need them to look nice. A carbon fiber look should do, I think.

Ah. Yes. Sorry. Set screws. You did say that.

Hmmm. They would go through the tube I’d think.

The forces are a downward force I’d the dinghy on its davits, some racking with the dinghy swinging, and some pull occasionally if we are stern to the wind and a large storm comes through. A rare occurrence.

Stainless would absolutely look better.

But weight and price say composite. I can always go stainless later if it becomes necessary.

[Jopinot]

Straight forward job for a proudly made in New Zealand company
When do you need them, how may do you want and where are you located?
graeme@mpw.co.nz

[CassidyNZ]

Originally Posted by Chotu

First paragraph was because I need them to look nice. A carbon fiber look should do, I think.

Ah. Yes. Sorry. Set screws. You did say that.

Hmmm. They would go through the tube I’d think.

The forces are a downward force I’d the dinghy on its davits, some racking with the dinghy swinging, and some pull occasionally if we are stern to the wind and a large storm comes through. A rare occurrence.

Stainless would absolutely look better.

But weight and price say composite. I can always go stainless later if it becomes necessary.

I mentioned it in an earlier post, you probably already know this but. . . . When you put set screws in to hold the tubes firm in the footings, you should drill through the side of the tube where the threaded hole in the footing is then use a long enough set screw to go all the way through to the other side of the tube.

This way the set screw can be turned firmly against the inner wall of the tube without any distortion to the tube.

Actually now that I think about, on your application it calls really long set screws, maybe it won’t be that effective. I use the process on my tubing but size never exceeds 50mm (2”).

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Jopinot

Straight forward job for a proudly made in New Zealand company
When do you need them, how may do you want and where are you located?
graeme@mpw.co.nz

I’ll shoot you an email!