Replacing Stern Cleats

[StringBimini]

I have two existing stern cleats, aluminum, about 5" or 6" long, and two fairleads (black polymer) and I was planning to replace them with with SS. Also, the stern cleats only accept about 3/8" line (comfortably), so I was planning to bump up the size to accept 1/2" or 5/8" line. I think I can do this with 8" cleats.

(1) Holes mismatch. The new bole hole locations do not match the old ones. I am not worried about strength, as there is plenty of stern material between the old and new holes. However, I was wondering the best way to seal the old holes. My stern rail is teak, on top of fiberglass. Is it okay to simply fill the holes with epoxy? The new hardware will cover the old holes, so I am not so worried about cosmetics.

(2) Fairleads choice. The existing are angled, but my boat is short enough that sometimes the tie-off is behind the stern, not ahead of it. Not a big deal, but I figure less chafing, if I go neutral on the fairleads (instead of angled). Comment?

(3) Design question. This may seem like a strange question, but I was wondering if it is possible to make the stern cleats too stout? The smaller ones that are there seem like under a really big load, that they might rip out, before taking the stern with them. Is there any risk with larger cleats of building it too strong? Btw, if I were to use a stern anchor, I would most likely rig to both cleats, thus halving any load.

Ha, maybe I am suffering analysis paralysis, so help me clear the fog if you can. Thanks.

[Cheechako]

are these thru bolted? on the caprail?

[StringBimini]

Cleats are through-bolted, and backed with fiberglass patches. I will probably retrofit with G10 or SS backing plate.

Fairleads are not through-bolted -- they are only screwed into the teak top rail (not the best design, I don't think). Probably I would through-bolt the new ones.

[StringBimini]

And...they are on the cap rail.

[skipmac]

My Pearson also had fiberglass pieces for "backing plates" if you can call them that. One by one I am replacing them with SS.

Filling the old holes in the caprail with epoxy should be fine but I would also bed the cleat with butyl tape. This will double seal the old holes and the keep the new ones dry.

[StringBimini]

Good point on the bedding...will add that to the job.

[rognvald]

SB,
The cleats on your boat are not aluminum but marinium--a high strength to weight metal used widely during the construction years of your boat. They are also hollow. In most docking situations, your boat is being cradled by 6 cleats and balances the load depending upon the direction of the wind-- therefore excessive size is not required for safety. Pearson certainly did the calculations for your vessel when they determined what size cleat to use. However, if you want to go the next size up for ease of handling, there should be no problem but I think your issue would be solved with the same size cleat and a taller stance to allow the passage of a larger diameter line underneath rather than the low profile cleats you have on your boat. I would also suggest using 1/8"-3/16" stainless backing plates and new hardware. To fill your holes in the teak caprail, you can mix teak sanding dust in the epoxy to give the repairs a closer approximation to the original color even though they will be covered. I would suggest slightly dishing the top of the holes before you fill them to avoid stress cracks. In regards to fairleads, do you mean "chocks?" I don't know what you mean in regards to fairleads in relationship to a cleat. Finally, the cleats would certainly be too stout if they look out of place on your vessel. It's not a work boat and aesthetic balance as well as utility and strength are important. You wouldn't want cleats appropriate for a 45" foot boat on a 323. Hope this helps. By the way, a very pretty boat. Good luck and good sailing.

[StringBimini]

Very helpful post! And, you are correct, I meant chocks, when I was saying fairleads. Thanks for answering what I meant, instead of what I said. Interesting fact about the hollow cleats.

Regards, SB

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by rognvald

SB,
The cleats on your boat are not aluminum but marinium--a high strength to weight metal used widely during the construction years of your boat. They are also hollow. In most docking situations, your boat is being cradled by 6 cleats and balances the load depending upon the direction of the wind-- therefore excessive size is not required for safety. Pearson certainly did the calculations for your vessel when they determined what size cleat to use. However, if you want to go the next size up for ease of handling, there should be no problem but I think your issue would be solved with the same size cleat and a taller stance to allow the passage of a larger diameter line underneath rather than the low profile cleats you have on your boat. I would also suggest using 1/8"-3/16" stainless backing plates and new hardware. To fill your holes in the teak caprail, you can mix teak sanding dust in the epoxy to give the repairs a closer approximation to the original color even though they will be covered. I would suggest slightly dishing the top of the holes before you fill them to avoid stress cracks. In regards to fairleads, do you mean "chocks?" I don't know what you mean in regards to fairleads in relationship to a cleat. Finally, the cleats would certainly be too stout if they look out of place on your vessel. It's not a work boat and aesthetic balance as well as utility and strength are important. You wouldn't want cleats appropriate for a 45" foot boat on a 323. Hope this helps. By the way, a very pretty boat. Good luck and good sailing.

uhh... Marinium is just an aluminum alloy that's been anodized and was marketed with a fancy name.... last I heard....

[rognvald]

"uhh... Marinium is just an aluminum alloy that's been anodized and was marketed with a fancy name.... last I heard...." Cheechako

Cheech,
I think you might have been sleeping in Chemistry 101. Aluminum is a chemical element(a substance that cannot be chemically broken down into a simpler substance) with its own atomic number. An alloy is a compound of two or more metallic elements that give strength or resistance to corrosion. Although marinium is an aluminum alloy, as you mentioned above, they(Aluminum/Marinium) are quite different and not the same. The price difference between the two is also quite significant in marine hardware. Am I guilty of over-parsing your words? Good luck and good sailing.