replacing joker valve the hard way

[Wanderlust]

Originally Posted by thinwater

No, probably not. A plunger functions by pulling on the waste, and both the joker valve and the flapper will prevent that.

Worked for me a few weeks ago - cleared in seconds. I believe the joker valve distorts enough under suction to allow the blockage to start moving. Then the reversing pressure completes the job.

Incidentally, in my 5 years of ownership this was the first blockage between macerator and holding tank. I have had the occasional blockage from the holding tank outlet (gravity feed). I once used the plunger outside over the skin fitting. It was difficult to apply pressure from the dinghy but it worked.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by Wanderlust

Worked for me a few weeks ago - cleared in seconds. I believe the joker valve distorts enough under suction to allow the blockage to start moving. Then the reversing pressure completes the job.

Incidentally, in my 5 years of ownership this was the first blockage between macerator and holding tank. I have had the occasional blockage from the holding tank outlet (gravity feed). I once used the plunger outside over the skin fitting. It was difficult to apply pressure from the dinghy but it worked.

If you had backpressure in the head from a blockage "south" of the holding tank, then your holding tank vent is also blocked. Your job isn't done yet.

[Wanderlust]

Originally Posted by SailFastTri

If you had backpressure in the head from a blockage "south" of the holding tank, then your holding tank vent is also blocked. Your job isn't done yet.

No, it's fine.

I have a 12V pump/macerator that pumps about 1.5M up to the top of the holding tank. The pump would run but not empty the bowl. Diagnosis: a blockage between pump/macerator and holding tank. (Yes, I suppose it could have been a blocked vent instead causing back pressure but it wasn't).

The plunger took 5 seconds to loosen the blockage, and the pump then did it's job emptying the bowl and pumping up to the holding tank inlet (followed by plenty of flush water).

I've never had a vent blockage but would assume the plunger used outside on the hull outlet (easily accessible from the deck) would be likely to clear that as well.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by Wanderlust

No, it's fine.

I have a 12V pump/macerator that pumps about 1.5M up to the top of the holding tank. The pump would run but not empty the bowl. Diagnosis: a blockage between pump/macerator and holding tank. (Yes, I suppose it could have been a blocked vent instead causing back pressure but it wasn't).

The plunger took 5 seconds to loosen the blockage, and the pump then did it's job emptying the bowl and pumping up to the holding tank inlet (followed by plenty of flush water).

I've never had a vent blockage but would assume the plunger used outside on the hull outlet (easily accessible from the deck) would be likely to clear that as well.

Perhaps my key point was not clear -- If you had trouble pumping the head (toilet) due to backpressure from the tank, then the tank vent is blocked.

[dfelsent]

A plunger can turn the joker valve inside out. It then feels like a blocked hose. Don’t ask me how I know. Poo and pee filled hose and inside out joker when a guest used too much TP.

[Cormorant]

Just a bit more toilet-plunging trivia here. . . . You could try a Johnny Jolter. This slurps up some toilet water and then plunges it forward with pressure only, no suction. Kinda like a big syringe.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Cormorant

Just a bit more toilet-plunging trivia here. . . . You could try a Johnny Jolter. This slurps up some toilet water and then plunges it forward with pressure only, no suction. Kinda like a big syringe.

If you have something blocking a pipe, using pressure can force it further into the pipe and pack it more tightly. It's possible to make a small problem into a big problem by doing this.

A traditional plunger functions by suctioning (when you pull up) and pulling the clog out or at least breaking it up so it can pass through the pipe.

Neither a plunger nor a pressure device is appropriate for a typical boat toilet. A full tank, a plugged vent or (on a seawater flush toilet) a blocked or shut off intake line are the things to check.

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by goat

Also re-check the y valve. Some of them are counter intuitive with the handle not inline with the hose in service. Flow is indicated on the valve body but they're usually located somewhere dark that's hard to see.

One of my pet peeves! Not sure why Y valves are different from any other valve in just about any application. But I never seem to get them right. I haven't even figured out a way to mark them so I won't make the same mistake next time.

[Locquatious]

It's a little off topic, but when rebuilding a head, I have used a cylinder hone to smooth the pump section. Then I slather the pump cylinder walls and leather with Tef-Gel. The pumping is a little stiffer, but after three years, when the head was apart again, there was still some Tef-Gel on the walls.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by Tetepare

I would NOT. In fact I warn every visitor. One didn't believe me, so I got to take the entire head out of the boat. And it wasn't my boat, I was borrowing it. Now I qualify invitees and tend not to invite land people.

I have no idea why boats sacrifice stowage space for "guest berths", really, just on this basis alone.

[AndyBerry]

Will using a plumber's plunger on a marine head hurt the joker valve? I've been told it could reverse it.

[Shrew]

Originally Posted by S/V Alchemy

I have no idea why boats sacrifice stowage space for "guest berths", really, just on this basis alone.

Not on our boat. We refer to the guest quarters as "The Walk-in Closet", and use it as such. Good boaters tend to own boats their own boats and don't need to be a guest. Landlubbers, don't get invited on the boat.

We don't tell visitors how to use the head because all our visitors own a head and know how to use it properly.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Jd1

May I suggest that you check the settings on the selector of flush/evacuate ? If it is in a middle position it will produce a large resistance to pumping. Of course it could be the mechanics of the switch as well.
Always check the easy things first, especially when dealing with poo
In my setup, if I recall correctly, I can remove the complete pump assembly without spilling a drop - might be worth looking at things from that aspect before pulling the pipes apart!

++1

The selector and its mechanics would be the first thing I'd check.

[Kalinowski]

We've used hydrochloric acid for years to successfully clean the lines.. Salt water and urine combine to make deposits that eventually plug the lines.

[ranger58sb]

We recently cleared a clog with Barnacle Buster, and I think that's hydrochloric acid. Turned out to likely be uric acid scale, that I'd allowed to dry out while servicing the joker valve and motor over a week or so. Plumber's snake didn't work, plunger didn't work...

The company told me their Sew Clean product is essentially the same, although BB has some additional biocides in it, as for flushing raw water systems... I happened to have BB concentrate on hand, so they suggested just using that, at the recommended Sew Clean dilution level. Worked great.

Peggie says Raritan sells the same stuff under their label as C.H. (Cleans Hoses).

-Chris