Plastic Seacock. Is it ok?

[pcmm]

The OP is surely trolling all of you...Has to be!

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by Sailing August

That is a PVC valve from Home Depot......not good

... connected to ABS [Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene] DWV* pipe.
ABS pipes are black, and PVC pipes are white.
* Drain Waste and Vent

When you're joining an ABS pipe to a PVC pipe, it can't be done with solvent cement or glue.
Instead, use a mechanical coupling [such as a Fernco* ‘Proflex’], consisting of a rubber sleeve, and metal jacket, to clamp the connection.




FWIW:
* Fernco manufacturers flexible couplings, in many configurations, from sizes of 3/4", and up.
➥ https://www.grainger.ca/en/category/...brand%3aFERNCO

* They also manufacture a Pow-R Wrap Pipe Repair Kit, which is a water activated, resin-impregnated, fiberglass wrap, and butyl seal patch, that permanently repairs wet or dry pipe and hose.
➥ https://weekshomehardware.ca/p/fernc...ir-kit-3210698

[boatpoker]

No ! No underwriter will insure that.
Here's why .....

[aqfishing]

Shocking!!!!

At least let everyone know who did the job so they know never to go there!!!

[sinnerman]

It is a good valve to scuttle the boat.

Do not try to collect on the insurance afterward, however..

[s/v Jedi]

Well done OP, almost everyone took the bait

[David Mathis]

Did the valve come with taper plugs? They might be needed if something drops on this "seacock" and breaks it. Is this on a boat that's trailered to a lake on weekends? Hopefully, it isn't on a boat that stays in the water. Of course, the money saved by getting this valve rather than a real seacock can be used to buy a six pack and a pizza.

[jdecris]

I don’t know which is worse - trolling or accusing someone of trolling. Trolling or any other similar activity simply doesn’t work - falls flat - if given nothing to stick to. Not worthy of any attention. And if it gets a reaction - that’s on the responder. End of story.

In any case… the original question.

The valve pictured looks like a swimming pool valve - and I can’t really tell how the valve connects to the hull.

So… the valve pictured is not suitable for a thru hull seacock. And the thru hull fitting may be as well.

I personally would recommend - after establishing that the thru hull fitting is appropriate - the valve pictured be replaced with a valve suitable for the purpose.

What’s suitable? - do online research and stop by your local marina or retail store - and read the well meaning posts - for guidance.

Good luck.

[ccanupii]

I think this perfectly fine for any boat that is on the hard, never going in the water, and is marked for salvage.

[Fbfisher]

867 posts and 10 images seems like a lot for a “troll.” His question certainly has been answered. Time to move on.

[Colonel Bob]

Originally Posted by jcapo

Very proper plastic from a company down under.

https://www.trudesign.nz/marine/products

This is definitely NOT a TruDesign product. I have switched to TruDesign seacocks throughout my Jeanneau 42DS, including a 2" monster for the holding tank discharge. All products are black body with blue handles. All are available with reinforcing collars that meet all regs. The quality is great and the pricing is reasonable.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Fbfisher

867 posts and 10 images seems like a lot for a “troll.” His question certainly has been answered. Time to move on.

I have had posts removed for trolling and I have a bit more posts and images. It’s a Halloween joke, deal with it

[thinwater]

Interesting that only Boatpoker said why (specific UL rating). The really relevant questions are:

• Do the threads match the through hull fitting? Unlikely, since the through hull has straight threads and the PVC fitting has tapered threads. But I would bet that most of the posters on this thread have a mis-matched valve thread on their boat somewhere. Thus, we don't know how far the threads are engaged.
• Can the valve withstand 500 pounds? Maybe, if fully threaded. These are not weak in that way. Can every plumbing arrangement on most boats take 500 pounds at the point the hose is connected? Remember ALL of the attached piping counts.
• Can the handle break? Can the handle break on Forespar valves (I'm pretty sure the answer is yes). I've seen a lot of these with broken handles in industrial settings, and at least it does not cause a leak. They just use a wrench. Many "marine" valves fail and leak if the handle breaks. Been there, done that.
• Minimum tensile strength. PVC is going to fail. The threads are not strong enough. The resistance to freezing is much less (but ice can break steel valves that far exceed ABYC requirements).
• Heat. PVC gets soft below boiling. Nylon does better.

I do wonder exactly what tests this would fail. Just sayin'. I've seen a lot of old corroded stuff that was probably worse. I've snapped off old valves with one hand.



No, I would get something better. I like flanged valves, and they are the only type I have used below the waterline.

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Our boat has the combination of thruhull, than a 90 degrees knee, then a ball valve.
For this situation I prefer to have:
- A bronze thruhull. Reason: Stronger. It is a good combination with the coppercoat. Plus better resistance against sealife than plastic. No need to replace it when the boatyard puts wooden support blocks straight under the thruhull. Yes they did.

- A bronze 90 degrees knee. Reason: an idiot with a big screwdriver and a heavy hammer or stone can not sink the boat.
- Plastic Thrudesign or other brand ball valve. Reason: no corrosion of the ball.

[sailorladd]

I have had a plastic ball valve attached to my prop shaft stuffing box for at least 38 years, and I have honestly had no issues with it (touch wood)

All attached hose nipples are threaded bronze and I would never use PVC cement , as I am not sure about the salt water effect on said cement..